Problem is the length as with the bearing and thrust race (im using the zx layshaft thrust race) as the spring is hard to screw on. Biggest problem is if you take a layshaft and put the spring on it only goes up to the end of the thread as its narrower than the rest of the layshaft and is causing the problem. When you tighten a hyper clutch or b4 or b3 slipper the spring sits on the thrust plate and when tightend it keeps the thrust race tight which sorts the slipper and the two flat lips on the layshaft is where the spring hits so no tension on the thrust to set the slipper. I hope ive made sense.

I am sorry, it might be the morning here, but I don't understand what you are saying. In short, do you want a shorter spring with same strength? or do you want it longer?

Neither, wider so it can slide down the layshaft.

and if welsh would have looked at the thread those slipper springs from tamiya are wider and use an sleve to center it.

mvh isobarik

OH! So you needed a spring that is larger in diameter, correct?

Can you give me the spec on the spring? So that I can find you a proper spring?

I don't use the spring, I am still using spring washers.

Belts are being finalized. Just need to pay them this week, and I will be getting them next week. I ordered belts in "Blue." It goes with the buggy.

Superb!!! Cant wait.

Ive worked out that the hyperclutch layshaft is fractionally longer than the zx and zxr mk1 so ive figured out how to do it with the hyperclutch parts and a zxr mk1 layshaft but the width diameter of the spring is a bugger. Ive gone back to a mk1 slipper system At the moment as per iso but with my spur and pads plus a washer between the spring and plate so i can get tension on the spur.

Springs are 5.5mm long, 4.5 would be preferable.

Alcyon

Here are some pics of the front with the LA-219-07 hubs

http://proxy1.pixbox.se/arkivet/synl...0/32814190.jpg

and here are an pic of the rear with the sp107

http://proxy1.pixbox.se/arkivet/synl...0/32814189.jpg


damn i really got to get an new kamera........or move away from the object since the zxs in the backround also sporting the LA-219 is sharper.....

mvh isobarik

Well it was designed for the zxs not the zx5, and yes you do need photography lessons.

Hi guys, I've been reading this thread a lot ever since I worked on restoring my Lazer ZX this summer. Lots of great information here, and the new parts you are designing really makes me want to buy them all when they are available. :)
Check out my Lazer ZX here: http://fun-with-rc.blogspot.com/2011...storation.html

ps - iso, put your camera into "macro" mode for the really close shots and you should have better luck!

Hehe iso can barely work out how to take the picture, just like me:thumbsup:

On a serious note nice work, welcome to the club. Firstly i would get the semicircular front shock mount but may need longer shocks to account for it. Buy a reverse oneway hub that sits behind the spur gear that goes into the gearbox on the layshaft as this give 50/50 drivetrain and makes it much better.

Almost all info is on here or radiocontrolzone and that has all my ideas and how i came to some of my designs. Trial and error has made a difference. I will post more pics of my car this weekend after ive tested a few things on friday. Any problems pm me or ask everyone here, as we will all happily help you out.

contiuation from the thread i started.i have uploaded some more pics of both cars including the slipper area,and also ive laid a ruler from "top deck rear mount to the wishbone block which sits behind the motor"in a bid to try and find out which ones i have.from what i see car one comes up at 50MM car to is 55MM.i like the idea of transfering all the good parts on to one car,but if they turn out to be a mk1 and mk2 is there much difference and what would be a better car to drive?

Reversed one way hub is LAW-4? I have it but had no idea what it does. I am going to put it on this week and try it out.

With the original zx slipper system the drive is 60/40 but with the reverse one way hub its 50/50 but means you cant use reverse as the one way will stop anything happening. Ok i did get the 60/40 sytem to work well on carpet but this is easier.

On high grip the mk1 (55mm) but on low grip its really down to preference. Mk2 (50mm) may jump better and be less agressive in and out of the corners.

I see my old shell

Do you guys know where I can find a saddle pack connection wire with banana plugs what would be somewhat flush with the battery when it is connected?

I don't want to soldier one up myself.

dont no if this has been seen/mentioned....shockingly similar to OT-16?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD427&P=7

look familiar...shockingly similar to OT-16?

dose anyone have for sale a set of blue ballraced caster blocks for the lazer zxr. thanks

Pssst! Oi, Welshy!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...E:B:SS:GB:1123


Hehehe :Dx

ie Funkymojos old shell

ie Shinya Kimuras old shell.....:thumbsup:

mvh Isobarik

Smartass:lol:

Nice, but I am going to go for oosh123's one.

oosh123 - Please see this link. I bought 2 and soldered a wired to them. The wire is what youd use for NIMH or NICAD cells and the connector is lower at the top compared to a Corally connector so is the better of the two.

http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...nnector-p-4838

I can buy you a pair if you want, but will send in a month or so once I have done my gearbox plates correctly then can send in one go. I dont have any spare poles though that are in the ZX-S kit for the gearbox.

So it does, but why not buy the 3Racing (i think) alloy version for the ZX-5 which is coloured as well and identical except for the extra hole.

Unfortunately no, may be a good idea to ask Iso as he may have a few, me I only have the one on my car. Sorry.

Where are you from? Are you doing the Area 51 event in January in Silverstone?

yeah i still have some left but im not selling anymore.....

moth
im going to make an new package since the other one i think has been tossed :mad: by misstake.

mvh Isobarik

Guys,

I am going to re-design the front gear box. It is still costing too much to manufacture. I have gone from $2400 (Molded Plastic) -> $200 (Full Aluminum) -> $70 (Aluminum & CF). I think I can do better. I am already quoting from the darkest corners of China.

But the other parts: rear upper deck mount (normal and welshy's), finned motor mount, belts still have the green light. If you guys are into monster truck and still have the Kyosho USA-1, I am also making the counter gear (which melts or breaks easily) in heat treated steel.

The bits you can do great, cant wait.

Hey there,

as a long time reader, rare time poster (over at rcz) I can only say how impressed I am with all those new Lazer part designs. I'd love to get my hands on those CAD files and ask around at local firms if someone would mill them for me :drool:. But of course that won't happen :).

Regarding those designs and heat dissipation: Have you considered a finned design like on this Lazer I once have seen in an ebay auction?http://knaeuel.stw-bonn.de/rc/ebay-lazer01.jpeg http://knaeuel.stw-bonn.de/rc/ebay-lazer02.jpeg

One could also raise the rear top deck connection base and bolt the top deck bottom up like this:

http://knaeuel.stw-bonn.de/rc/finned_rudm.jpg

This would increase the connected area between the fins and the top deck mount and "increase the space" below the top deck for bigger non saddle-pack lipos, since you could push them a little bit farther to the rear end.
Of course it would be annoying to assemble into the car and you'd have to consider different upper deck thicknesses. Last but not least Welshy's belt tensioner design would have to be changed, but hey, it would be more blue aluminium :thumbsup:

Another question: Did anyone ever considered 3d printing to create some spare parts? There are quite some shops which offer Nylon 12 as material, which might be good enough, at least for some front bumpers or maybe some C-hubs.

so long
sz3

Regarding the rear gear box, wouldn't it be possible to do something like I scribbled in the terrible paint art (based on the zx evo manual)? Adding some additional material to the pivot blocks and use full size cf parts on the sides, like you did with the front gear box design?

That is a kewl concept.

But as Welshy stated before, the finned heatsink motor plate is enough.

I see 2 concerns there:

1. Those fins can only be most effective if the base is attached to the motor. But since the motor placement moves if you switch pinions, it may be tough to attach them to the motor and still have no interference.

2. With a fin that big on top of the rear upper deck, the center of gravity may shift upward. Although it's made with aluminum, it will still affect the cog. I would choose a hot motor over more body roll.

That's my 2 cents, but I still have to agree it's a kewl design.

It is possible to do that, but my rule is, if what I designed cannot be retro fitted into an existing RC (in this case Lazer ZX), then I will not make it. Adding material to the pivot block is a no-no. I don't want others to pay extra $$$ for a pivot block that only goes with my rear gear box.

And since Welshy is already working on one. Let's just see how his is first. His design maybe better. *Fingers Crossed*

Im having this gearbox made for the ZXR but will base the bottom gearbox on the ZXS so will be made of plastic. Im still awaiting my bits to arrive and will build. Once I am happy with the CF design I will then have a proto gearbox bottom part made and hope to take it from there.

Well last night i went to club to see the top kyosho guys there and thought my zx was ready but couldnt find enough power and on the infield in certain areas i was quicker but turned out my rear belt snapped again so today ive cut away a section on the gearbox where the third screw thats the lowest of the three holding the gearbox to the motor plate. Ive added a bearing (same size that holds the diffs in place, thats pushing in the belt to make it taught. I did try the zxs belt tensioners from the rear gearbox but couldnt get it right. The only problem i have now is the smallest pinion i can use is a 22 as the bearing just misses my 6.5 but will do until my design is done. Pics to follow.

Welsh hows the slipper working ??? when you going thrue belts like they where co...... :D

mvh Isobarik

Mate, slipper needs an law12-1 layshaft, and i dont have one.

Pics below

I might actually have what you need since im slaughter an LAW-12 to fit my cat xls and obviusly dont need the layshaft, will let you know.

youre belt guide looked like an easy fix did it work ???

mvh Isobarik

Cheers mate, if you can find a hyperclutch layshaft that should save the day.

Havent tried it but feels tighter, only issue is I cant use my 5.0 as the big bearing takes up a lot of room. Also ive only got two belts left wont be able to test it until my big race in january. Bit gutted as in front wheel drive in certain areas I was quicker than the top two drivers so would have been a pretty good set up. Still need my gearbox designed and built as the zxs hasnt stripped a belt yet and its got a 4.5 in it and is rapid so cant wait to have that in my zxr..