come on down, and sneak in lol

aye, time to kiss and make up:o

ha ha, Craig in make-up.... Roy, I love you long time.... :woot:

it's either that or I go out and buy my own patch of grass to race on... :lol:

Steve,

That's an image I never, ever thought would be in my head.

Thanks :o

haha, no worries Ian, years of training, to make a statement like that.

You racing this weekend Ian?

Yeah, got to get the DB-01 dirty again now I've spent all week stripping it down and cleaning the GNR mud out of it!

so glad a slept in... I got to whip the 5.5 out, now, do I go for the 6.5 or 7.5..... hmmmm

Nah, leave the 5.5 in :thumbsup:

down there, it took half the straight at Talywain, to open up fully!!

I've been putting this together over the last couple of weeks:thumbsup:
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...IYA/DB01/2.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...IYA/DB01/6.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...IYA/DB01/7.jpg

.......and here's a list of the bits and pieces used:-

Tony’s Screw Kit

54028 TRF Buggy Aeration Damper F / R
53709 Flourine Coated suspension balls F / R
51286 TRF501X differential joint set F / R
54118 DB01 Assembly WO Universal Shaft (Front)
54119 DB01 Assembly WO Universal Shaft (Rear)
51090 4 pack of 950 bearings for steering
53884 Option PT TA05 Carbon Battery Holder
54061 Double Slipper Clutch
51320 Wheels Front
51321 Wheels Rear

JDRDB301 3mm Black Ceramic Differential Ball Set F / R

3 Racing DB01-04 Aluminium Front Suspension Mounts
3 Racing DB01-06 Aluminium Rear Suspension Mounts
3 Racing DB01-02/LB Front Shock Mount (awaiting Atomic Carbon version)

Atomic Carbon Rear Shock Mount

Custom Blitz shell:thumbsup:

LRP Sphere TC and Vector X11 7.5 (soon to be X12 6.5 I think)

53884 Option PT TA05 Carbon Battery Holder is thinner than the standard version, this allows me to drive the retainer posts further in and more securely when running my TrakPower 4900s.

Hoping to run it for the first time at Jarrow next week:woot:

One way
 

Car looks mega pal

Got one myslef very similar spec - i have a front one-way in it..have you?

Find it far better on the track i race (bury metro)...pulls through corners easier than without...

Very impressive Ferretti :thumbsup:

How easy was it to fit that brushless motor?

I've only just converted my Durga over to brushless and couldn't really fit my Tekin motor in it - it looked like it wasn't sitting flush due to hitting the part of the chassis at the back of the motor and was almost impossible to connect the sensor cable.

I ended up having to mill out part of the bottom of the chassis and decided to fit a new Novak Ballistic Brushless which has a smaller "endbell" section, and different sensor cable position.

my tekin redline goes straight in, you got to plug the sensor cable in first though.

Straight in, no issues:)

Hello,

I just bought the trf501x diff joint (51286) and the large ball diff plate (51287) both for the front and for the rear.

The base of the diff joints are keyed, but the diff plates are not keyed. How should i assemble the diffs? Should i glue the diff paltes to the diff joints as i did with the stock db01 diffs?

In touring cars both the diff joints and the diff plates are keyed, and no glue is needed.

Mattia.

I have not seen large diff plates? but anyway, no, these parts are not keyed and work via friction.

What Jimmy said :thumbsup:. Just place the plate onto the 501X diff joint and the metal-metal contact does the rest, no need for glue or anything. It is to be honest a much better design than the stock DB01 plastic thingy (which is really the only bit of nasty cheapskate engineering in the whole kit).

Whats the deal with Tamiya releasing an abundance of the DF03 RA kits? I mean are they really that good? It seems to me that the differences between the original DF03 and the rally ones are so slight, that it seems quite rediculous to be releasing these kits left and right. What exactly is the demand for this kit anyways? I am hopefully wishing that Tamiya will step up their game and come out with something that interests me. I know it sound's quite selfish but i'm only speaking the truth. LOL :D

I agree AJ Gee, I started with a DF03 and didnt like it that much, it was just
a learning curve for me. I raced it for 2 seasons until the B44 came out.
Then I was so pleased with the B44 handling, I jumped and got the big boy
tamiya 501x WCE car. Then shortly after I ordered that the durga came out
and I felt that I should have went for the durga before the 501x.
But that's ok, most people went for the durga because you can run stick lipos
with it, kinda like the first BJ4's were.
By the way the price of the 501x has dropped big time, maybe tamiya is just overstocked? Or are they discontinuing the 501x?

Haven't you noticed that newest car from tamiya is 511X? :D

edited: just to support my words :)
I've seen car personally in Wien on race http://www.redrc.net/2009/02/honigl-...winter-champs/
ToyFair http://www.redrc.net/2009/02/toy-fair-2009-tamiya-2/

:confused:, wassat got to do with this thread then?

is there a buggy forsale or not buggy . i need a buggy to race with thanks :thumbsup:

how much are they .or is it for sale?:thumbsup:

Hello,

i'm still having problems gearing the Mamba Max 5700kv for the DB01.

2 weeks ago (midday, 32°C) with 17pinion and 91spur gear:
- after 7minutes of racing the motor was 75°C and the esc 65°C
- after 25minutes of racing the motor was 91°C and the esc 75°C.

Yesterday night (10pm, 23°C):
- with 16pinion and 91spur gear:
after 10minutes of racing the motor was 64°C and the esc 52°C;
after 20minutes of racing the motor was 81°C and the esc 62°C.
- with 15pinion and 91spur gear:
after 10minutes of racing the motor was 80°C and the esc 51°C;
after 20minutes of racing the motor was 81°C and the esc 53°C.

I cannot make the motor run cooler than this.

Do you have any idea what else can i try? Should i try a bigger pinion? Or a smaller one?
If i try a smaller pinion i might run it too undergeared.

I'm worried that even if I stay with the 15 or 16 pinion and go racing on a hot day, i will get much higher temps.

Thanks.
Mattia.

Mattia,

The closest you are getting to the breaking point of to motor is 91°C after 25min of constant running (93°C is the breaking point).

Most racers do not run their cars on an offroad track for 20+ min straight. That much constant run-time will heat up any motor; even if the gearing is good.

It is best to keep your practice runs at 10-15min and then take your car off to cool down for a bit.


You may be able to improve the cooling by cutting the vents on the Durga body and/or switching to the carbon reinforced chassis with the heatsink plate and the hop-up motor mount. I have done both and the cooling improved quite a bit.

The last possible thing I can think of is to upgrade to a high end ceramic nitride bearing kit (like the one from BOCA). The Durga will gain a slight edge in top speed and will have less friction to work against. It would make only a minor impact on heat at best, but it is nice to have.

Hope this helps.

Dan

Has anyone had a problem with their servo not sitting right?

I re-built mine yesterday after sitting doing nothing for a year, and found the servo was sitting so it was high at the front so the linkage was catching on the tunnel under the belt! I did a quick fix of taping a spare servo horn under the servo at the back. But I can't think why its dropping like this :confused:

first compettive outing last night
 

i'm fairly pleased with my db01 - it went pretty well, although I had 3 dnfs....

twice the 3racing CVD's I had fitted threw their pins - they went in the bin - crap! the original dog bones are now on - and in the final, a heavy front impact popped the wishbone hinge pin out of the holders. better than a broken wishbone I suppose, but still a PITA!

apart from that, the car handled the 6.5 perfectly, which was my main concern. maybe I had the slipper set a little too slippy as a precaution against all the diff melty horror stories...

the 3Racing ones will wear, but you have to rebuild, lube and loctite them, and they will last, dude.

Wassat? what?, Don't be getting all gangster with me sir. I will not accept it nor will i tolerate it in any way, shape, or form!!! Nah J/k with ya dog, you know how it be being. Ok, now back to your question. Why did i post my comment about the DF03 RA in the DB01 section, well simply because i felt like it. Is that ok with you? Well if so then you are free to carry on. I hope Mr. Jimmy Oople isn't upset with me. He's king of this domain mang. :thumbsup:

guys does anyone have the part no. to build a new diff??
preferably a 501x diff and is it better for me to just build a new diff which is troublsome or just get myself a front one way??

501 diff
 

501 diff
 

51286 - TRF501X Diff ..halves

JAAD JDRDB301 Black Ceramic Diff balls 3mm (12)

501 diff
 

personnaly i like the one way in the durga though...

54051 DB01 Aluminum Center One-Way Pulley (18T)

how is a center 1 way related to building a new diffs?

Hello again.

I've been playing around with the timing settings of the Mamba 5700 motor, trying to figure out how to reduce the temperature.

Yesterday night (10pm, 27°C):
- with 15pinion and 91spur gear (FDR 12,44), timing set to Lowest(0):
after 10minutes of racing the motor was 75°C and the esc 57°C;
after 20minutes of racing the motor was 91°C and the esc 64°C.

Now I'm stuck. I don't know what else to do.
Any idea?

I've found another post of guy having the same overheating problem, he contacted Castle Creations support and they replied that the Mamba motors can stand up to 250F/300F. Could it be possible?

Thanks.
Mattia.

does the 511x front wing that is mounted on the front shock tower
fits a durga?

:lol::lol::lol: nicely spotted Sosidge. Shanks mate, it's a shame you weren't as "anal" with the punctuation as you are with your car prep. Them dots what get stuck in between words is what is called "full stops" boss, and the resultant chunks of words is what we is calling "sentences" (or at least they were when I were a lad, I accept they probably teach differently these days ;)). :lol::lol::lol: