......trippy.......

^^ pot calling kettle.......... ^^

Hi guys

Just registered on the forum..AWESOME btw

Im from sunny South Africa and just finished my build of my Durga...awesome

So I went on my first ride, took a jump and broke the front arm where the ball joint screws in the arm. It doesnt look to bad and i just pushed the ball joint back into the now deformed hole and drove the car to the pit area.

Can I just shove some glue/apoxy in the hole and tighten up or should I replace the whole arm? Seems a bit pointless to me...

are you on about where the shock absorber attatches to the wishbone?

Does anyone have a source for the flourine suspension balls in the US?

I had a minor crash and popped out the rear wishbone and the ball shattered, so I figure I'll pick up the cheaper 3Racing suspension mounts and the flourine balls everyone recommends, except that I can't even find them in the US.

Hey guys! Just picked up a DB01 after having a DF03 for quite some time.

The DF03 was the fully hopped "MS" version with all the right aftermarket parts in the right places to make it the best DF03 it could be. Sadly the DF03 chassis is not well supported where I live. After breaking it everytime out, I figured it was time for a change.

I guess I just got used to to the fact that when I need something for my touring cars, I can go down to 1 of 4 hobby shops on the island and get what I need that day.

If I were breaking arms and stuff like that, I would stock up on parts, etc. Changing an arm everytime out isn't a big deal, but when you have to change the chassis or the rear diff cover, it's like buildng a new car every time, as you have to tear it down quite a bit to replace those parts. To me, that's just not fun. Of course any car will break, but minor repars and complete rebuilds are two different things. I'd rather spend my time getting better on the track.

So I went ahead and picked up a DB01 since it's the most supported EP buggy on Okinawa, Japan (with parts regularly stocked). Of course, I couldn't just leave it stock, so I went ahead and picked up all the supporting stuff to make it bulletproof, or at least what I think would make it bullet proof:

58404 DB01 Baldre kit
Champ Ti screw set for DB01
54018 Slipper set
54028 TRF Aeration Buggy Dampers
51286 501X diff halves
54015 Front Univeral Joints
Discou54037 Front Aluminum Suspension Mount
54038 Rear Aluminum Suspension Mount
54039 Aluminum Suspension Block
54051 Center 1 way for DB01
53709 Suspension balls
54062 13, 14, 15 48P pinion set
53124 Tungsten diff balls
51304 Front wheels
51305 Rear wheels
54079 Aluminum Motor Mount

Have a look:

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/271/db01ol3.jpg


Any tips for the build?

I've been reading a lot on the suspension with the TRF dampers, and I decided to keep the normal shock tower and dog bones in the rear since the TRF dampers are a little longer and fair better with the dog bones.

What I'd like to know specifically though is what would be a good starting point for a rough 1/8th scale buggy track, thats on a very loose, dusty surface with big jumps?

Should I do limiters/no limiters?, What weight shock oil? Which pistions/springs, etc?

Also, is the kit belt tension setting ok for a Mamba Max 5700 combo?

I'd like to be able to handle the rough stuff and make the big jumps without crazy chassis slapping if I can help it. Not sure if that's possible, but if anyone could shed some light on a decent starting point it'd be greatly appreciated.

:)

- Paulie

Good choice!

Can I ask you a favour :blush: ? Could you scan the building instruction of the 54028 TRF Aeration Buggy Dampers?

Thanks

Ask and you shall receive!

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/3111/...uctionswd2.jpg

:)

- Paulie

Use good screws and a good driver. The upper shock screws were the toughest for me.

Also shave/grind the chassis "webbing/shelf" at the rear. Otherwise the front edge of the rear arms will hit, and you won't get full travel.

Haven't been running much 4WD... 1/10 4WD here has kind of made way for 1/8 electric.

I have not done that to my car as yet, and it doesn't suffer any ill effects from not doing it.

what is the proper way to fill oil into these aeration shocks?

well, I fill mine as they describe, put the top on, push the piston in, if it pressurises too much, I crack the cap open a little, let a little oil out until the piston goes fully in, and extends on it's own a little, then make both shocks the same.

I beleive the car is build in long wheelbase in the manual - and there's no interference with the chassis. It's only if you go for short on the inner hingepin that the suspension arm will hit the chassis during travel.

I just used a sanding drum on a dremel to put a little radius where the arm was hitting.

Thanks Paulie :D

Durga parts
 

Does anybody know if there is a problem in the UK with Durga parts. I ordered an "A" spru to repair mine in December from DMS racing but they are having problems getting parts from Tamiya. Sorry if this is not the place to post this.

My DB01 Durga is for sale (in the forsale section, of course) if anyones interested. I raced it for the last time yesterday and did really well with it (apart from missing my final because I was chatting, oops), but other cars and other reviews need my time/money, so it's got to go :(

you could get the Carbon parts then?? fusion hobbies got them (I think)

Im wondering, can DF02 shocks be used for the DB01? My kit shock in the front are broken at the mount :mad: thx to my driving skill of clipping the fence. At my place i could only find DF02 shocks, TRF dampers are still 'on the way' it seems, it might take ages so hoping for a replacement while i wait for new ones.

if it isn't important that youneed to use Tamiya shocks, then you could always use Associated B4 shocks.

I do want TRF shocks for my DB01, ive ordered them but it seems it'll take sometime to arrive, even TA B44 shocks are not available n ill have to order them . . . but i found a cheap set of df02 shocks hoping it could be used as replacement for the moment.

I know when I was after shocks, B44 shocks were no where to be found, and I got my TRFs from Stella.

Cheers!

Hey guys. I'm Just about to build a brand new diff using the metal outdrives. Just a question or two before the build. This might be a stupid question but, do i use CA glue for the metal rings? How good is the bond between the rings and the steel outdrives as opposed to the plastic to metal bond? Also, is it a good idea to scuff up the rings a bit and degrease em? I have all new parts for this build and i want it to come out as best i can. lol. Last question: Does the flat side of the thrust bearing go into the diff outdrive first? Thanks as always guys.:p

I didn't glue mine, and they ain't been a problem

Don't use glue on the ring/outdrive dude, I used a thin smear of grease and it works fine.

Thank you guy's very much as always. Im about to build them as i type this, so i appreciate the quick responses. :thumbsup:

My last question about the Diff. Do you guy's bother using the A15 plastic shim. If so then i gotta do a thorough search through my part(s) boxes, or take it from the Diff that i have currently in the car. Maybe a metal shim would work in place of the plastic one. What's your thoughts guy's? Thanks.

Personally I used the plastic A15 part when I built up my second set of diffs with the 501X outdrives but then again I have a truckload of A-parts for some reason. I guess a metal shim would work as long as it is dimensionally the same size as the plastic part you are replacing.

I ended up finding the A15 ring and the build went great. I can't believe the difference that the metal out drives make. I also used some ceramic balls and all i gotta say is that the Diff is very very smooth, especially compared to the stock ones.:thumbsup:. Thanks again.

Well fellas, after spending quite some time on the DB01 build its finally complete. The car went together surprisingly easy. Seemed like the parts count on this model was pretty low compared to other kits I've built.

If it doesn't rain tomorrow I plan on doing some shakedown runs at our track. I decided to use the Novak Havok Sport 8.5 instead of the Mamba Max 5700 combo I had in my DF03. I think it'll be a little smoother which might help on our loose, dusty track.

For now though, have a look at my '09 livery. I wanted something that looked aggressive, had high contrast, easy to repeat, didn't take days to mask, and minimal decals (which I make myself on waterslide decal paper). I'll be using this scheme on all my cars this year. Colors are Tamiya PS series spray cans - Colbalt Green, Flourescent Red, and White. Let me know what ya'll think...


http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/2923/db01a.jpg

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/337/db01b.jpg

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/9126/db01c.jpg

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/1513/db01d.jpg

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/6669/db01e.jpg


:)

- Paulie

That looks lovely mate, and the Baldre shell actually likes decent, not really had such a good look at it before :)

Cheers!

Your car look's great my friend. And i agree with clark about the Baldre shell, although if not painted in a certain color scheme the shell can look horrible. The box art for example, in my opinion look's cheesy. Great job though.

Thanks fellas! Yeah, the box art does make the shell look kinda cheesy, ha ha.

I took some advice on this thread and clearanced the wing with the shock tower, instead of mounting it 5mm back to help aviod breakage.

We'll see what happens. Unfortunately it IS raining outside, so no shakedown for me today.

:(

- Paulie

Baldre Shell
 

I really like your design for the Baldre Shell. It's simple, yet clean and sharp. I also like that you went with non-standard colors that really complement themselves.

It reminds me of a vintage paint design, which I have a soft spot for.

Great work!

I just bought my DB01 and i'm new to electric buggies. Here are some initial questions and I hope they can be answered

1. Can anyone tell me what's the rear toe in angle? Are there any options for it?

2. The steering seems to have bump steer built into it, is it normal or my settings are wrong? Max droop, I get toe out, max bottom, i get toe in....

3. I bought the TRF Option Shocks and Springs. Are the rear springs from the TRF Option springs and the shock set longer than the stock ones? I can't seem to get the right ride height for the rear.... It's too high.....

With the shocks you can either cut down the springs or take off the height adjusters. I ran my Durga indoors usually with the ride height adjusters taken off so the car sat low enough. Outdoors I don't think I'd usually want to go that low tbh.

The steering shouldn't have any real noticable bump steer no, don't have a durga anymore but I'd recheck your manual to make sure the steering is built correctly maybe?

No options for the rear toe afaik - unless Tamiya make some rear hubs with different degrees? I know they had prototypes but not sure if they are released or not. I think it's 3 degrees but I never worry about toe angles, there's so much more interesting stuff to setup :lol:

I removed the height adjusters and changed the lower ball end to the stock CVA ends.

I am chasing around setups to get it for medium bite carpet racing. During off power entry into the corner, the rear breaks loose. On power the buggy pushes through the corners.... Any solutions?
Front - Yellow springs, 1.3mm piston, 400 Shock oil
Rear - Red springs, 1.4mm piston, 250 shock oil
No roll bars.

Have a look at the setup pages, see if anything there is suitable? Mine is set up like this:

Springs - Tamiya red dot all round
Oil - 35wt all round
Front - 1 degree camber with kit hubs etc
Rear - 2 degrees camber
Roll bars - none

Running Schumacher minipins and a 6.5L motor it's fine, in fact its a bit too pointy but the back end never breaks away. I was told that the red dot springs were too stiff on the back purely because the ride height was a bit high. However, when I went to softer ones it kept sitting down on its outside rear which then lifted the front inside wheel off the track.

At the end of the day everybody's setup will be different depending on their driving style, it's just a case of experimenting to find something you are generally happy with then tweaking it to suit.

I'd say you want tamiya blue front and yellow rear. Not sure what oil you're using, but I use AE 35wt front and 30wt rear with moulded pistons.
The rear breaking away - not sure how many or if you have any limiters in the rear end but possibly not enough droop? The only time I've really changed the rear droop was to take droop away to make the rear steer more.
I always used a one way and didn't really suffer understeer on power but possibly going to harder oil in the rear might help that?

Tamiya red all round? :O softer than a soft thing!

I agree with the additional droop. The rear was worse when i added the 3mm droop under the piston.
The next thing i'm gonna try is to thicken the shock oil. I'm using shock oil ratings in CTS as opposed to the common WTs.... I've attached a conversion table so that maybe you guys can know what i'm talking abt.

Next setup:
Front: Blue springs, 1.3mm piston, 400cts oil, -2 deg camber
Rear: Yellow springs, 1.4mm piston, 400cts oil, -2 deg camber
No limiters and no roll bars.

I have all the links in the kit position, with 1.5' camber rear and 2 on the front.

40wt 1.3mm up front, 35 1.4mm rear. I am using the original 501X shocks, which are shorter on the rear, and it worked fine, I am now running the Carbon rear tower, with the rear shocks mounted higher, and it is still good. I don't have a one-way in, just the double slipper, and thats on carpet, and I don't have any issue's with turn-in, but as it is 4wd, you got to drive it like you stole it.