ok so I haven't eaten and am a little tired, things aren't going real well.

Trying to read the setup sheets, seems a bit of a jumble, anyway whats the standard toe in rear, one says 4* and I only seem to have 0,5* to 2* toe in thingys.

same with standard caster block whats the stock 20*? then +/- 5* or 10*

Rear inboard toe in is 3 degrees, so you add or subtract from that with the rear hub inserts.

Kick up on the chassis is 25 degrees, so you add or subtract from that with the castor block inserts.

G

JUST BEAT ME TO IT!!!

Inboard toe-in is set at 3 Degrees as printed on the Blocks.
You then add or remove toe-in using the outer blocks.
Looking down on the car with the front of the car facing away from you.
When you put the insert in the side of the car Left or Right you get the toe in value that you can see printed on the insert. (+ increases toe-in, - reduces toe-in).

So 3 Degrees inboard, with the L+0.5 in the Left hub and the R+.5 in the Right Hub will give you 3.5 degrees toe-in.

Castor is similar.
Kick-up is 25 degrees.
When you put the Castor Block in you get the value next to the arrow pointing forwards (i.e. from back to the front of the car). The value must be the right way up for you to get the correct castor...

So with the +5 arrow pointing to the front of the car on both sides the castor will be 25+5 =30 Degrees.

Made this today, can't see this 1 snapping :D

gainsy , it looks good mate , how much to make me one ?

Cheers Phil :)
I will have a look & see if i have any more old shock towers i can convert, the 1 i used was a 4mm version i used to have on my b44
I tried it in alloy first but i prefer the carbon 1, also my drilling was none to good on the alloy 1
Will have a look when i get the kids in bed :D

let me know mate

Hi all,
i'm building my car... regarding the ball diff, I've noticed that the two small washers are different, i mean, one has a more "rounded" profile and has a diameter of 7.9mm instead of the other that is 8.0mm.
In the manual it says that the thrust is caged, but it isn't...
What is the correct sequence (1 or 2) for mounting the two different washers?
And then, when assembled the "thrust cage" in the correct sequence, on wich side will be the screw head?
Sorry, english is not my language, I attach an image that i hope will explain better than words the sequences...
Thanks!

http://www.codem.it/diff_210.jpg

Is one smaller diameter than the other? If so it should be next to the screw head. I must admit I didn't check mine, but I've had no issues.

G

Got mine today finally but few problems,no shims in the kit that i can find pt no 330363-1 or 2 nothing at all looked at all opened bags,the pins that go through the hexes the pins fall out,

Thanks for that..

Damn that servo arm looks pretty weak as others have said, im going to make one from CF tomorrow

Broken a ball cup screwing it in.. just went the whole side fell off other than that not a bad build.

Why are there a lot of extra parts that look like to the older style shocks?

Anyone running all electrics on one side and weight on the other? I don't really want to have to run a wire under the lipo area

Anyone running losi shocks? I am atm as haven't any others.

What pistons are people running?

And finally can I use rear losi 22 wheels if I change the hex? what about fronts?

Quote from Robocop . . . .Got mine today finally but few problems,no shims in the kit that i can find pt no 330363-1 or 2 nothing at all looked at all opened bags,the pins that go through the hexes the pins fall out, End Quote.
---------------------
Just put a bit of threadlock on the pins to stop them falling out too easily.

really wanted a 210, now starting to get put off, i know theres teething problems with any car but some of these seem fairly big issues to me

Most of the shims in the kit are plastic washers on the parts trees.

The extra parts are just on the parts trees.

I weighed mine tonight and it is almost perfectly ballanced left to right with the speed on the right and receiver and pt on the left. Many cars run the wire under the lipo, that's what the milled bit is for, don't worry it'll be fine. Put some tape on top of it to stop it moving if you are worried.

Kit shocks.

My indoor setup from York went up on the TD site today.

I think Losi wheels would fit with the Losi hex, no idea about fronts.

Nope friend of mine is building his too he has the sprue

Anyone know when the gear diff is being released and some more body shells?

I always find ball diffs a pain :(

Don't be put off. These posts are by finicky sods like me who want perfection. The reality is it's a superbly balanced car to drive and like all kits we will soon get used to its little quirks and nuances and how to side-step them.

The "weak " steering rack make give you a little flex and save a servo.

Beefing it up may give you a more expensive break.

+1 it may seem 'weak' but it seems pretty flexible so may not break as easy as we think , as said it will flex or break saving the servo maybe ?.

As TonyM said, don't be put off, this is an awesome kit. On only my shakedown run I was doing exactly the same lap times as my B4, which I have had for a year now and know it well. Very promising indeed:thumbsup:

Regarding the rear shock shafts, with the spring retainer fitted the piston top meets the top of the damper body perfectly. So this is not an issue. Thanks to Matty Lathem and Adam for the heads up on that, and to CD for the screws question I posted earlier.

As said, don't be put off, generally the car looks like it will be very, very good.

At least you know what to watch out for now with the diff build, the steering I was worried about was fine on the track on my only outing with the car.

Yes the steering link looks weak, but who knows, it might be fine.

The car is great value, I was very impressed with my first run, went well considering I'd set up the front end all wrong !

Roll on a setup / tips section on the site to explain all the tuning options.

i am finding it hard to belive you think the steering rack is week have you run it yet i have raced mine twice last week and had some big crashes and had nothing break as yet .

Currently building mine, love it, for those who feel a little put off, there is definitely more positives than negatives!! very nice kit (diff next :cry:) lol! seriously tho, looks good, one question for the powers that be, how long till we see some front wheels??? yellow and white please!!?? :woot:

Nobody has checked the two small washers?
I think, if it doesn't matter wich one goes on wich side, why are they different?!?
I'm thinking that only my kit has different washers.....

For those having a small issue with the turnbuckle threads being tight. Using the black grease from the kit, apply a good coating to the threads, then thread the turnbuckles into the ball cups all the way, then half way out, then back in again to the correct depth.

The small thrust washers is different on the x-ray T3 to.
I have tried to put them both ways and it did not feel or performed any different.

I'm not sure how you tighten them, but I found the Durango turnbuckles very easy to put on (the HD ones included). Just put a screwdriver or hex driver through the hole that you usually use, put the turnbuckle in a set of pliers and start turning. The leverage should make all the difference and make it super easy and super quick! :thumbsup:

This must be the first kit that i cant get to love,how would you change the gearbox quickly between rounds?
Also you cant use the droop screw on the spur side unless you do it from underneath not on top like touring cars do.
Pins in the hexes yes i know people have put thread lock to keep them inplace,but this is 2011 never seen a car with pins on the outside or if they did side through the pin is held by a oring in a groove on the hex.

I know people will say prat but think about it a little

Its more when adjusting them that if they are tight they can pop off the ball joints. Had the same with a cougar kit.

Not wishing to rain on your parade dude but even the race proven 511 has pins that are easy to lose if you build as per the instructions or transport minus wheels fitted. I use a dab of tamiya anti wear grease. It's sticky enough to hold them in place yet they are still easily removed. HTH

Associated B44 & B4, Losi 22 - all have loose pins which you need to dab a bit of thread-lock on, so it's quite common.

Funny i just got rid of my 22 my mate has a b4&b44 and the pins dont fall out

Being loose, is probably better than having too drift the sods out like the front pins on the 410

I should say on the B44/4 you can use the cheap split pins, but they easily bend and are a sod to get out and most people I know convert to the team FS pins which are smooth, but conversely easy to get out, just a dab of thread lock and they are superb.

The pins on the 22 are somewhat longer, but equally smooth. Perhaps it was my bad luck in getting ones that were loose.

Gearbox can be changed with a power driver in about 10 minutes, with 'hand' tools it took me 15.

Access to the droop screw. (Does it really matter which side you can access it from?) :confused:

Pins on the outside of the hexes... It's all about backwards compatibilty. I'm sure if we'd have moved the pin we would have had plenty of people complain that they need new wheels.

I received my 210 yesterday and built it last night - superb kit!

There is only one issue where I am unsure if I did it right - the rear end in mid motor config, see attached image. The aluminium block has threads where the long screws go through which hold the rear bumper. These screws then extend up to the nuts in the recessed plastic piece. For me it was impossible to tighten the screws in a way that there is no gap between the gearbox and the rear aluminium brace. The gap is very small, but still there.

Why are the threads in the aluminium brace? I considered to drill them out to be able to tighten the rear end together, but first wanted to ask for your advise.

How did you do it?

Thanks, Frank

There are two spacers that fit into the alloy block.
Have a look at the online manual. The part number in the printed manual is wrong. It should all tighten together nicely.

I did check the online manual, the spacers are in. But when tightening the screws they first lock into the aluminium brace, the nuts might need an additional half turn to be tight...

What front wheels fit? SV or B4?
I have the 22 rear on with a B4 spacer and a washer and 22 roll pin

Any others?