thanks adam

Would anybody be so kind and post the dimensions of the box? I'vo got to check wether it fits in my baggage in addition to my clothing should I decide to buy the kit on my busibess trip...:)

@mes: 15x25x15cm

@charlessito: I've been using Associated and Losi spurs with the D4 slipper.

Using the standard non-slipper shaft, Kimbrough type spurs are compatible (Associated, Robinson, Duratrax to name a few).

I have been looking everywhere for a forum on this ride. I am getting mine on Wednesday. I have been wanting a 4WD buggy for a while. This one seems to be good. Lots of Great INFO on this Forum. I will probaly have a few questions a long the way. This just will be a Fun Basher for now. I plan on using a Traxxas 12T Titan and a XL-5 ESC. I have that lying around. Finally some people with this buggy!!!!!!!!!!!:woot::woot:

@scrawl: Thanks for the information, but do you mean inch instead of cm? 15x25x15 cm seems a little small... 38.1x63.5x38.1cm seems a bit large on the other hand :eh?:

Or is it 51x52x51 or 51x25x15?! The latter would be nice to stow the completed kit inside!:D

The box is rather large. So would say he meant inch. You can fit the car....and then some, into the box.

Too bad, it won't fit in my baggage...:cry:
Thank you vey much nontheless!

Ah, my fault! I measured the box before rushing out of the house.

For anyone who is interested, there are plenty of photos and notes I kept while building the Cyber 10B over at http://psytoy.net/radio-control/buil...hpi-cyber-10b/

Mine is in the mail. Just going to use for fun. But I cannot find the Slipper clutch for sale anywhere. Anyone know where to get it???

Thanks for sharing :)

Hi scrawl/Adam,

Any idea if the D4's Rear Suspension Mount is a direct fit to the Cyber 10B's?

Thanks in advance.

Anywhere that stock HPI/HB stuff should stock it, if not then they will be able to order it for you.

If you race, then get the slipper in and race it.
I'm more than impressed with it and I'm having better results with this car than I was with the D4!


found- http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/HB61587.html

How does it compare to the SC10 box in size? I have it around, so I can check (never give up!)
I have never had an HPI kit so far, how full is the box? Could you just put the contents into a plastic bag and fold down the box in order to take the kit along in a trolley case?

Yeah you could do that. The box isn't mega full.

In comparison to the SC10 box the Cyber is small! lol
You couldn't fit the SC10 into the cyber box, put it that way.:D


Why don't you just get rid of the box?

Empty the box and if you want to keep the box, break it down maybe?

Morning scrawl, any idea if the D4's Motor Mount (61453) and the Center Bulkhead (61454) are a direct fit on the Cyber 10B?

In Theory yes the D4 motor mount does fit, however practically it has too many knock on effects to be a feasible option.

Thanks andy for your reply, am i safe to say that it will fit then? Am asking coz from where I'm from (SG), HPI parts are harder to get than HB parts :( Trying to gather what are the parts that are compatible, in case things break suddenly.

Am now having some downtime coz I need a new rear suspension mount and the LHS has no stock for it :cry:

The bottom screw holes look identical but the holes for the top brace are different.

The spur gear is also located higher on the Cyber 10B to allow the battery to slide under the central shaft. Even if you do get the D4 mount installed, I think the drive shaft would impeded the battery.

Rear suspension mounts are completely different too.

I really like boxes! :p

I tried to fit the SC10 Box in one of my two almost identical trolley cases and but for about 5cm/2" it almost fitted inside.

I think I will try my luck, and if it doeas not fid inside, break the box down as suggested.

Thank you guys!

Oh, one more thing: Is the D4 Wing Mount a direct fit?
Edit:
Another 'Oh!' : How mean of Jimmy to show me the Durango vids on youtube, now I do not know AGAIN what kit to buy...I Guess that solved my baggage problem, I'll have to wait and see...

Yep, the D4 wing mount is a direct fit.

Must say I like the Cyber-10B mount more. It allows you to adjust the height but more importantly it has some flex. End result is the Polycarbonate wing takes less damage on impact - the wing mount simply flexes backwards.

Thought they look of the same quality built :blush:

Me too. I also found that the wing takes less damage. Which can only be a good thing.:D

I fitted the #61531 Center One Way on my Cyber10 along with the #61531 Center One Way last night. Used a 78mm drive shaft from Tamiya on the front and #61472 76mm Drive Shaft to the rear. Will test this today.

Do you by any chance have pictures of the setup?

Picture of Center One Way
 

Please note that this style of battery is pushed back to the stop. There is 2mm of clearance to the shaft.

Hi All... am looking for white springs but have no idea which would fit the D4 WCE shocks. Please advice.

Thanks.

When you say white springs, do you mean white in colour, or white being the way they are graded compared to other springs?

If you mean white in colour, then Losi white rears will fit ok, but will be very soft, perhaps too soft.

Hotbodies have "white" springs, which are black, with a touch of white paint on them so that you can tell which grade they are.

Hi John... thanks for your reply. White in color actually, sorry for being vague. Any other brand(s) that are 'hard(er)' and white in color?

Cheers :)

Don't think so. White are usually quite soft from my experience.

I'm currently running kit fronts and losi pink or red rears. and this is tending to work on most tracks. Infact, I've not changed form pink rears since I put them on.:D

Are the white spring purely for a colour matching plan?

Not really, thought i read somewhere white was hard. My bad :blush:

I think some TC white springs are hard, but the Losi off road ones for the HB shocks are soft. :)

Im having a little trouble setting up the diffs in my cyber10b... this is my first 4wd car, and first to use ball diffs (comming from a rustler VXL) so it might be pretty elementary.

I built everything as per the manual, and used grey grease on all the dog bones & CVD's, and after a 5 minute bash in the dirt the whole driveline was caked with grit and binding up quite badly. Pulled it all down and cleaned it all out, but the diffs were still quite stiff and "gritty" in their motion. The 8 very small ball bearings under the diff screw were also covered in dirt, so I pulled them down and cleaned it all out. Bearings are still good, bevel gears too... without the screw in and just pushing the diff together it spins freely, but with the screw in (and 8 small ball bearings with a small ammount of grey grease) and the tension set so the bevel gear cant spin with two allen keys holding the steel outdrives still.... it still has a really gritty, far from smooth feel when spinning just one outdrive at a time.

This is only really happening with the rear diff, fronts not too bad... there is definitely no dirt at all in there, so its got me stumped.

Any ideas? If anybody knows a better way to set the diffs up I would love to know :blush:


Thanks

Im not 100% sure about this but I think you,ve overtightened the diffs.
With both outdrives locked with allan keys you should just about be able to turn the bevel gear. try loosening the diffs by 1/8 turn at a time seeif it improves.

with the wheels on, if you hold one tyre should it be very easy to turn the other wheel? or just a very light touch?


thanks

I usually set mine so that when you hold the diff in your hand, and lock the outdrives with allen drivers, you should just be able to make the diff slip. It does feel tight but it should be just about right if you can move it.

If you hold one wheel with one hand the other will turn but it may feel a bit tight or 'feel' gritty.

If its attracting dirt onto the driveshafts etc. Clean the grease off them. That is what will be attracting the dirt and grit.
I run mine dry and have had no problem at all.

I'd also fully strip the thrustrace down (the bit with the small balls) and get all the grease off. Then re-build it and put a little les grease on. I usually put some of the grease on a small flat screw driver and just put enough grease on the plate to hold the ball bearings in place whilst I build the rest up.
Mine's been pretty much bulletproof since I built it, and I've done 4 race meetings with it not being rebuilt yet.

hope this helps.

Ok done all that, they are still a little noisy tho... but smooth enough.

Im having a little trouble with the front axles, they are assembled just as the manual states but with the wheel nuts done up "tight enough" its very hard to turn the wheels... my rusty has teflon washers to help with this but no sign of any on the cyber?

Yep, I noticed this problem at the weekend. My front right hand wheel was binding badly. I just loosened the wheel nut a little bit at a time until the wheel turned freely.
It was ok, and the wheel and nut stayed on fine for 3 races and it won the final. I haven't looked into the cause yet. So can't tell you why it does it. I've got a feeling that its just soft plastic on the wheels. And it doesn't need the nuts tightening up as much.
Other than that, it may just need some shims adding between the bearing and the hex.

scratch that, worked it out... a wheel bearing failed, its had about 10 minutes use :mad: and the price! us$15 a pair!

Hmm, I did think that myself, but with so little time since I bought it I didn't think that would be the cause.

I'll check later and see. I thought they would last longer than that.

Did yours have the clicking noise when you turned the wheel?
Maybe it is the bearing after all.