I've driven the car yesterday for the first time. It was adopting to 4WD, since I drive 2WD mainly.

I read on several forums that the inner hinge pins were prone to breaking. So I took in some spares from my old B-Max4 II kit - actually I took the whole front assembly with me -.

First heat (after 1 minute): first front inner hinge pin broken. So I swapped it to the old one. Second heat was more a moment for me to adapt to 4WD driving. Car was very smooth and easy to drive. Easier than the previous one. In the third heat I broke the other front hinge pin. So I've swapped that one also. After the swap I changed some things in the default setups to see how the car would react on changes. I kept driving and driving. Really great stuff. Enjoyed it.

And on my last heat I broke (after a slight touch(!)) a rear inner hinge pin. So I swapped out both when I came home.

Hinge pins feel weaker than the old ones. I will try the "new" ones again soon. But at the moment I'll stick to my current setup. People didn't know what car it was :thumbsup:. Some drivers liked to car by it's looks.

Note: I'm a average driver, I don't hit things often. It's no complain about the hinge pins. Just something I've noticed. Jörn Neumann was at the track yesterday and I'm far slower than him so that's where I'm at :lol:

Today I have to build up the 2WD for next weekend, a indoor race. But I will drive the 4WD soon again. It's so much fun.

Breaking inner hinge pins? No big issue, probably overhardened in the first series of kits. As I got new diff outdrives for my first series B-Max2 before I even ran the car, I am sure they'll fix it very soon. ;)

It's a big issue if it ruins your race! I haven't run mine yet but I will be looking out for this. If there is a genuine problem with these he whinge pins hope yokomo do the decent thing and supply us with replacements.

It's something I never broke on the old car is i will make sure I have spares.

Hi Guys,
do you know the exact measurements of these hinge pins?
3x47mm or 3x48mm?
Thanks
Guy

Ran mine for the first time. It had a lot of understeer but by the end of the day it was spot on after a few tweaks. One of the major changes was removing the centre weight and running the cells forward. I used no1 pistons in the back shocks from the beginning of the build as having smaller holes in the rear makes no sense.

So far I'm well impressed. :thumbsup:

Cracked a front shock tower too but that's because of a silly jump (the worst jump in the world).

I was concerned about the hinge pins after hearing about people braking them but after the pounding it took off the jump (again the worst jump ever built in the whole of mankind) I think it could be a bad batch because I should have broken one easily.

Does anyone know the internal ratio of the car??

First run out today. Car felt good just need more track time struggled with steering a bit. Was on polished wood floor dropped diffs to 7k front 5k rear made a huge difference. Am going to drop front to 6k next time out.

Broke front hinge pin too. My mate did a hinge pin aswell as cracking front shock tower.

Looking forward to next time out with it. Overall car was good just need to sort hinge pins and get more track time to adjust set-up.

is it possible to double up on the front shock towers?

Yes I would if thought it is possible. Neil do you know anyone that will stock 3mm titanium round bar so I could make some hinge pins?
cheers
Ben

Anyone got a link to the online manual?

40/17 = 2.3529

Not yet

2.35 as mentioned on the setup sheet
Speaking of setup sheet, a better quality editable was done, available on petit for anyone looking of it.

Thanks :thumbsup:

Yes. But, why? The tower is 3.6MM thick if I remember correctly. If there are some durability issues with the towers there will be people stepping up and creating thicker ones :D

Let me guess? :D :thumbsup:

It was also the worst track in the world to .

Car was excellent by the end of the day though. Get one bought. ;)

I ran 7k front and 3k rear. Took the weight out of the back and ran the cells forward which helped improve steering. I moved the linked inboard on the front hub and moved the ball studs forwad on the steering link. The balance was perfect.

You'll always brake a shock tower because of the rigidity of the gearbox casing and the tower. At least it's not a dnf which is worse.

Hinge pins are on my shopping list when they are back in stock.

If anyone does break a hinge pin and is stuck then the XB4 front hinge pins look bang on. Luckily I had a fellow racers car in my house he's selling and checked the length against the manual. :thumbsup:

So you have a few spares then pack ;) ha ha

Picked mine up today, plus a few hop-ups and spares. Not begun the build as yet, but not in a rush. I believe there is a hinge-pin carepack coming from Yokomo to fix the over hardened parts that shipped in kits. Meanwhile the xray parts do fit.

I'm pretty sure the pins from the older car also fit.

It's a nice build. It weighs a ton!!!

Looking foward to your comparison with the XB4

They do fit. I'm using the pins from the II.

@OneKiwi, what do you want to know? I've driven a XB4 before :p

so BMAX4 III vs XB4 what do you think? :)

Yep a little along these lines, I am really happy with my mr2 and also have the xb4 whick I am also really happy with. I have gotten it to a stage that Im pleased with.

As always new stuff looks good and im longing for another build which I love. However I am seriously considering the XB4 2wd because of the parts compatibility 95% is pretty good share rate.

I can justify a new 2wd more than the 4wd, if I was to get something. Saying that we just don't have the tracks and choice here so its a little catch 22.

The XB4 was really nice to build. But to my surprising (compared with the B-Max4 II also), building the III was a pleasure as well. Everything went together smoothly.

I like the shocks on the Yokomo more than I do on the X-Ray. Easier to build and adjust.

Despite the weak hingepins on the III (guess it will be fixed), the car is great. Less initial weak spots on the III than on the XB4.
The slipper on the III, imo, is better than the XB4. Both drivetrains are really smooth.

Both drive really great out of the box. Both cars are top quality and in the end there is not so many difference. Just personal preference.

Compared to the II, there are a lot of improvements on the III. Car is so much better.

Hi, I'm thinking of taking the plunge after 3 1/2 years of Durango, Just got a couple of questions
What hop ups are required? (if any) understand there maybe hinge pin issues, but should be resolved.
Do Losi rims fit?
Heard there are some crosshead screws not all hexes, what size so they can be replaced during build.
Any other info or build tips!!
Thanks.

I was told that the new "batch" of yokomo B4 III will not have the problem with the hinge pins, but you should talk to your local dealer if he got the new Batch.

No hop ups are needed. Hinge pin problem is apparently being resolved but if in doubt the pins from the older car are a straight fit.

Wheel wise, I have fitted the smaller front hex from the older car and this allows me to fit associated wheels. The newer AE rear wheels are 12mm hex. I think the offset on Schumacher wheels us different. Kyosho front wheels fit perfectly too but the rears need drilled out to 5mm and you need to put a washer behind the nut.

Dave

so the new Schumacher wheels is a direct fit ore am i wrong? (i like black wheels) :D

Yes they go on as hexes are same size but I've been told that the offsets are slightly different which would only cause issues if you are racing at an official meeting I suppose.

okay thanks :)

No hot ups required just buy the smaller front hexes so you can run Associated and JConcepts wheels that's it.

I used to run a Durango and the Yokomo pisses all over it . The Durango was stressful to keep it together over a 5min run and it would bite your head off if you pushed too hard it was a quick car if you kept it together. The Yokomo has loads of steering and the balance is amazing. I can push the BMax and it loves it.

If you get one don't use the setup out of the book, put no1 pistons in the rear shocks. Put the piston in the front flat side up, ball stud on the inner hole on the front hub and steering links forward. DO NOT use the additional weight between the cells . The book set up isn't suited to Uk tracks and I found the car lacking steering and turn in. Now I've changed it the car is perfect.

If you're worried about hinge pins the XB4 ones fit.

I'm just building mine. interesting what you say about the lipo weight. what tracks have you run it at?
What oils?

are you running the front hubs forward or back?

I picked up the BMAX4 2 front pins. same size as the iii. I've got some xray ones in my box too. There is a care pack on its way from yok I believe to sort it out.

I run on a mix of carpet and vanished cork. I run 7k front oil and 5k rear diff oil. Any higher in the front would probably be too much unless you run on astro outdoor. 27wt shock rear and 35wt front. I run the cells forward as well. I run medium wheelbase as the car is already longer than most.

Leave the weight out as it takes away too much steering again though high bite astro the weight will come in handy.

Whatever the manual says for the front hub spacing. That's one thing I didn't play with.

Its gonna be nice when more ppl post there setups for this Yoko :thumbsup:

is there any AVID 2+2 for the BMAX4 III? if so were to buy it? :)

Do you mean the 2+2 pistons? According to their website the Associated ones are a direct fit. (AE, Losi, Kyo, Yok)
Available e.g. from Avid's shop or amainhobbies.