Originally Posted by TonyM (Post 568048)

Yep one was mine and I really liked it once I'd bolted on an alloy 'bent' horn and replaced the rear shock shafts. Steve managed to break a rear shock tower and I think something happened to Mark's in the final, but not sure what. Si woosed out with an excuse that he hadn't fit any outdoor tyres to his :D [the one between rounds].

In comparison to the 22 I was running inbetween the fixes, the 210 felt so solid. Once the teething issues are solved I'm sure it will be the club car to beat for many a year.

Originally Posted by Adam Skelding (Post 568102)

I'll try and clear a couple of issues up on here:

1. Shocks shafts are correct in the kit. Just make sure you have fitted the rubber bumpstop onto the shock shaft before you fit the rod end.. Also once the spring perch is on there the piston doesn't break the top of the body.

We've had no issues throughout testing with shocks sticking at full compression.

As for the option part page, the 52mm shaft shouldn't be listed there. I'll get it removed today. It's also in the manual...

2. Diff - Circlip. It's best to install the circlip with some good Circlip pliers. It can be rendered useless if you try and force it in... A few tips here to help ensure your diff is built correctly.
a. There are two sides to the clip a flat side and a rounded side. When you install the circlip keep the 'flat' side facing you this way when under pressure from the thrust race the contact faces between the clip and the diff ring are the flat ones.

b. One the circlip is installed. Try to open it out a little either with the circlip pliers you just installed it with. Or insert a large flat blade screw driver between the open ends of the circlip and give the screwdriver a twist, this will open the circlip back out a little removing any 'shrinkage' of the clip on installation.

c. Make sure you put in the diff screw and T-nut in the correct sides. It builds differently to other diffs out there. Don't just build it 'the way you have been building ball diffs for 20 odd years'.

3. Breakages.
Shock Towers
These are always hard ones to justify... Sometimes when you break something you only see the end result of part that has already been weakened. We broke towers in testing and in racing, but TBH they were justified. We have towers from the production batch and the mix is good.

Steering.
Honestly, we never saw a broken one of these during testing, it must have been a really hefty hit.. We even did some testing at Coventry so we know what to expect from the track.

Originally Posted by Adam Skelding (Post 568102)

I'll try and clear a couple of issues up on here:

As for the option part page, the 52mm shaft shouldn't be listed there. I'll get it removed today. It's also in the manual...
.

Originally Posted by TonyM (Post 568121)

Thanks for all the advice Adam. Pity I bought the option shafts when listed by MB as spares for the 210 :bored:. I can only think then that there must have been some sought of build error on my behalf, I did have the rubber gromit fitted, so I'm a bit mystified.

Super feel to the car BTW. I used Craig's setup for the National at Southport.

Originally Posted by Matt Butcher (Post 568134)

i cant find it in the manual but what should the shock lengths be?

Run my dex210 yesterday for the first time, i had a couple of issues with the diff during the build and wasnt 100% happy with it, but after its first run all was good, re adjusted the diff again and was faultless all day. im very happy with my frst 2wd buggy :)

Also a quick question for you setup experts out there: how do you get more on power steering other than changing tyres as i only have one set of front wheels at the mo! with stagged ribs fitted.

thanks

Originally Posted by Chris Doughty (Post 568136)

with the shock rod-end screwed on fully and the shock built with the bump-stop AND the spring cup the piston will not go any further than it should.

As long as you can get the amount of droop that you want when using those option shock shafts, you can use them no problem.

Originally Posted by muratti (Post 568147)

If you use the shock boots do you also have to use the bump-stop as i think i remember that on the normal DEX410 shocks you don´t need them as the shock boots fully compressed work as a kind of bump-stop, am i correct?

Originally Posted by Robocop (Post 568165)

Hi
I ordered the 52mm shafts the black ones direct from td can i send them back and either get a refund or the correct ones

Originally Posted by Chris Doughty (Post 568174)

drop an email directly to Durango - [email protected]

Forums are great for 'chat' about products, but if you really need an answer to a question or a query direct communication is the best way.

posts in forums are so easy to miss, it just happens that I saw this one as I'm actively looking on this thread today.

Originally Posted by jondell (Post 568179)

Not much going on today then Chris? feet up, oople on...

Originally Posted by Adam Skelding (Post 568181)

Nail on Head!

Originally Posted by jondell (Post 568187)

Ohhhh, so there's two of you with not alot on!!

Back on thread.... car is really good, great build and good basic set up included. Found the car needed a few runs to loosen up suspension, as it was pants in the morning dampness when new. As the day went on it was much better than my limited skills.

Originally Posted by mikeyscott (Post 568188)

Hi Jon,

Where did you test the car? Stotfold?

Any particular tips from the setup master?

Cheers,

Mike

Originally Posted by neil_p (Post 568199)

A big thanks to Chris and Adam for clearing up these things, excellent support from Durango.

Regarding the shafts, I did not try with the spring retainer on, but I want to change oil any way so if I get the chance I will do it tonight and have a look. But I did have the end screwed on fully with the bump stop fitted.

On thing that is bothering me is on the manual, no where it mentions to fit a screw into the last rear hole on the side pods. I know using RM that the pod is used to scure the brace from the top but not from underneath. I know I could just fit a M3x6 cs screw, just wanted to know if any one else has noticed this or weather you shouldn't fit a screw there.