Yep, with that DI running Losi rims, I also assumed they are running yokomo adaptors up front.

As for the rear, Losi rims will force-fit onto a 5mm axle (3/16" = 4.8mm approx) if you push hard enough, but I assume he just drilled them out.

The difference is the pin, which is a smaller diameter on the Losi cars. Again, maybe you can just force the rim on into the pin, or alternatively use the Losi pin and be careful that it doesn't fall out.

could anyone tell me the distance on the wing mounts between the screw hole and the locating post on the tower mounting end. Also the diameter of the post.

Just thinking of using them on the dynastorm, i'm getting some new towers made up for it so want to put the holes in.


cheers

craigosh
http://racingdynastorm.blogspot.com

Craigosh-

The length between the wing screw and the front of the wing mount is 34-35mm.

The front of the wing mount (where it screws onto the tower) is not exactly round, but it's approx 7mm in diameter.

BTW my Dark Impact webpage has blown out to a full (albeit small) site.

You can check it out here:
http://http://web.aanet.com.au/fir/dark/index.htm

Sorry bender, meant on the end that mounts to the shock tower, what is the distance between the holes for the moutning screws and what looks in manual to be loacting stubs just below them.. looks to only be about 3mm or so but would like to know exact measurement.. center to center would be good.

If anyone is interested in a manufactured layshaft conversion for the DI, then email RW Racing [email protected] and ask for pricing, he has the bits to make a complete layshaft, I have also requested the layshaft to be made to accept an RW made gear as I don't think many of uss have press facilities to press off and on the layshaft gear.

The layshaft will accept a complete B4 slipper clutch assembly (including spring) but will hopefully use METRIC nut for adjustment. Been told it will be a week or two before I get the first one to test. But then if you lot email him, might be quicker.

just emailed hope that he would ship to italy :-D ....

DCM do you think that the press is needed to assembly the gear? would not enter using common home tools?

thanks!!!

I would think you would need to use a decent press, unless you are realy handy with a bench vice and some ratchet sockets, then you still got to press the gear onto the new shaft and get it in the right place, realy you don't want to be taking it on and off.

The reason for asking a gear to be made, is it is a much simpler operation I think.

Ok, that measurement is 5m, centre to centre.

I've just emailed RW too.

DCM - what material would the gear be made from?

The material will be made from the same stuff they make there spur gears from, and that is ubber hard, it is a sort of Nylon. There gears I reckon are about the best in the world in my honest opinion. Will be better than the metal gear easily I would expect.

Ok. I agree their spur gears are great, I run them on my TC, as well as their pinions.

And my old Top Foce was equipped with RW gears too!

yeah, I had an RW gear set on my well modded Manta Ray (can't remember who did the LWB conversion for it, chassis, topdeck, steering and prop) and also had a racecraft body on it, far nicer than the Tamiya offerings. So quality is going to be very good indeed.

Not sure if I posted on here or not, but we now have a Grade 12.9 black oxide alloy steel hex head screw set for the Tamiya Dark Impact :)

For more information, please check out our website.

We also ship to International locations via USPS Global Priority Mail. Most locations the shipping is only $6 USD.

Best regards,

Tony P.

Tony, tried to register on your site, seems your registration page only accepts USA adresses and not global.

Well, my DI made it's "official" debut tonight, at my local off road track.

It really wasn't the best of tracks to debut the car. Besides from me not having raced a 4wd off roader in about 4 years, the track, to put it simply, was the roughest dirt track I have raced on in my 22 years racing :mad:

It was nothing short of a joke..... I have plenty of vids and pics from last years Worlds at Collegno, and I can honestly say that what I raced on tonight was a LOT worse:o

To give you an idea of the roughness, there were several places on the track where your car would hit some rut or bump and be pitched into the air as though someone threw it:o

You couldn't even use full throttle down the main straight for fear of the car being "tossed" into the drivers stand:rolleyes:

So anyway....

In all honesty the car struggled in these conditions (although most other cars did too).
We had 3 heats and 1 final.

In the first heat I was off the pace (bad battery) plus I made too many mistakes over the numerous jumps. On some jumps the car would jump perfectly, with no mid-air throttle correction required, but on other jumps the car was very difficult, though this certainly could have been due to the overall track condition.

For heat 2 I replaced the kit front tyres with some Losi red Taper pins, and made sure I used one of my proper race packs. The car was much improved in terms of steering and grip, but remained terrible through the bumpy stuff. The car was a bit too quick in a straight line, and I unsoldered the motor after 9 or so laps :(

For heat 3 I moved the rear shock in on the arms and ran stiffer front springs. The front was a bit better, but the back was much worse.

For the final I put in a 19T motor in an attempt to slow it down a bit. This worked, but I made too many mistakes trying to catch the leaders - on this track pushing hard was not the answer!

Some general thoughts-

On the few decently smooth parts of the track, the car was working VERY well.

For these conditions, I had the car set up too heavily dampened, however there was no time for me to rebuild the shocks.

The diff was starting to slip in the last heat and in the final - certainly the lack of slipper and extreme conditions were a major factor here.

No anti-squat adjustment could be a problem. On this track, I noticed a few guys have success by running some anti-squat on the rear, obviously something that I couldn't try.

Finally, one thing I can say is that the car IS tough. I had plenty of big crashes - either flipping the car from jumps or the car rolling end-over-end after hitting the big bumps, and it survived.

The wing (and the wing mounts) copped a battering but the rest of the car held up well. I was especially happy that the drivetrain took such abuse without failing.

The potential is there.... but the car is certainly going to require some different approaches when it comes to setup and driving, and certainly the conditions I encountered tonight are not too agreeable with the car ;)

A slipper clutch makes a vast improvement with a shaft drive, as there is relatively no give in the transmission, once the SB Sport had a slipper clutch it went from mucho-nervous over ruts and sharp bumps to being a lot more composed.

A few lil spy shots from today at Batley, a couple of Tamiya based prototypes by Isherwood and west.. looked good to me
http://www.oople.com/rc/index-reviews.html
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/ishywest/evo4rblogo.jpg

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/ishyw...ges/ishy02.jpg

Hi DCM,

Sorry about that. My shopping cart provider (GoDaddy) doesn't have support for International shipping. I handle all International orders via email and ship all around the world on a daily basis. My email address is [email protected]

Thanks and best regards,

Tony P.

DCM- Have you heard anything more about the RW B4 slipper conversion yet?

I was just looking at the pics of the new DI slipper and it occured to me that you could simply use the b4 spur gear and slipper pads with the rest of the DI slipper unit. You would only need to ream out the spur gear hole on the B4 spur slightly.

Speaking of B4 spurs - what is the smallest size you can get? A hobbyshop owner told me 78, but the gears look like they're made by Kimbrough, so surely they'd go down to a 75 or 72??

They only make ones that work on the b4 so 78 seems to be the smallest. I guess much smaller and the slipper pads wouldnt fit on.