Looks good James :thumbsup:

Im looking forward to running mine tomorrow at York!

KF2
 

Hi James, see at York with your new car. Lee

I have a daft question; I want to use shorty packs so I'm building using the low grip conversion option, but the belt doesn't seem long enough? The manual say's belt 103T but the belt in the kit has s3m309 stamped on it. Am I doing something wrong or should I uses the kit belt?

Use the belt in the Low Grip kit that is included in the box, it's the only bag that has the Schumacher card on the top. Make sure you've got the motor mount in the rear set of holes, not the ones shown in the instruction manual and follow the instructions that are in with the low grip kit.

Kit belt is only used when you have the motor mount in the forward set of chassis holes.

Hope this helps,
James.

=Muzzie;897993]I have a daft question; I want to use shorty packs so I'm building using the low grip conversion option, but the belt doesn't seem long enough? The manual say's belt 103T but the belt in the kit has s3m309 stamped on it. Am I doing something wrong or should I uses the kit belt?[/QUOTE]

Sorted cheers

Hi guys.

I've been racing buggies and other stuff on and off over the years and picked up a KF2 yesterday to get back into it :thumbsup:

I'm well out of date with the tech stuff, I'll be racing indoor on AstroTurf and would like to learn how to build the car, as per kit or with adjustments? The manual says 2k diff oil but I know some of the guys at my club with other cars run 5k. I'm looking at a 7.5t motor, so what gearing? Also what's this saddle or shorty pack for low grip etc all about? :blush:

Cheers!

Can someone tell me if the old side gears will fit the new car? Also is it not necessarily to run the extra weight with the new car now then? Also are any of the team guys running the graphite chassis? Or is everyone sticking with the alloy one regardless of conditions? Thanks

I would build in std kit form to start with and use the low grip chassis option. 24 or 25T pinion with a 7.5 motor. Diff oil wise I've never used anything less than 10,000wt and on very high grip astro indoor I run 20,000wt.

In the kit you have 2 options for battery types, saddle packs or the new style of battery is the shorty and I would recommend going for this option.

Regards,
James.

Not sure if the side gears would fit, why would you want to run the old spec gears?

I ran the car today without any extra weight and is was excellent, all the team drivers today used the kit chassis as most will.

James.

Some people (like me) may want to use the high inertia side gears for low grip conditions, and as at the moment there isn't any options available for these and/or already have these hence the question I suspect.

Yes that is correct. I use them for tuning quite a lot. In fact I thought it was the best tuning option on the old car, and I for one will not be upgrading until the new car has this option.

My builds all complete but here's a few progress photos before I got that :) And what a great build it was! The quality of the parts is bonkers.

Main chassis assembled
http://i.imgur.com/qSNG3gy.jpg

SkyRC/Speed Passion power plant
http://i.imgur.com/kESueWo.jpg

Converted the front to take wheels with bearings, seeing as I have loads and they're YELLOW :D
http://i.imgur.com/38wXYh6.jpg

Rest to follow this week :)

Thank you!

So I'll order a Savox 1258, should I get an upgrade servo horn? I must admit I haven't looked in the kit properly yet but I assume the one that comes with it is plastic?

I'd be interested to know some of the top guys feedback on additional weight. Looks like the Trishbits side weights still fit beneath the new slipper housing looking at Lloyd Storeys car from the weekend.
Anyone know the weight of the car fully loaded in shorty config?

I picked mine up on Friday but haven't started the build yet. Couple of questions for those that have:

1) does the v2 rear suspension kit from the KF1 fit?
2) how are people setting anti-squat at the rear? (high front low rear?)
3) are the titanium turnbuckles worth it? If so is it strength or lightness or both? I never used them on the v1
4) I ran the svr drive shafts on the kf1, are the new ones looking longer than the original kf1's or do I need to use these again?

Do you guys place the extra shims in the diff or build as per kit and adjust feel with oil weight only?

Has anyone got a picture of the side guards dremeled? How much do you have to remove?

kf
 

I cannot understand why people would spend £280 on a car and have to use a dremel to get the battery in poor design if u ask me what happened to the tm2 v2 muzz

There is a lot to like about the new KF2 but I do feel that the hinge pin braces do not look like they have pill adjustments which I think is a shame and this also means you cannot change the toe in at the rear without a different rear brace. At least you can do anti squat changes by using washers underneath the braces. With the alloy hangars on the K1 and KF this was great to have so much adjustment which I feel has been lost a little.