Im just using the plastic ones at the moment. You will need to use the carbon link rod that comes in the centre track rod conversion kit U4113

I've got all that but was just going to use a turnbuckle at the top and then just connect them strait to the steering arms by I will see tonight.

ill upload a photo of mine tonight so you can see how i set it up

Picture attached of steering set up

Is that a carbon fiber Procat centre track rod or is it the SX3 one?

It's the sx3 one from the centre track rod kit

Nice one pal I'll have a look in a bit

Ok so here's the new Procat / SX3 hybrid steering setup with a MMS centre track rod
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psdhyj8nxp.jpg
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psm1wrxoif.jpg
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psn0zj8fp4.jpg

That looks great - I used to have a period ball raced steering back in the day ( think it was wasp that made it) but sold it on when I sold my bosscat 20 or so years ago.

Where did you get the alloy diff pressure plate carriers - I could do with some of them, it's the only bit I suffer with on reliability

I bought a massive job lot of bits off eBay and there was a couple of pairs in there, along with a few other trick bits that I found out last night. I'll see if I've got any going spare.

I have seen the wasp one before there's a guy on rc10talk's got a nip one :woot:

Superb - it's the rear diff that gets the hammer and the mms ones just melt eventually

Is your rear diff coming loose? If so get U857 from Schumacher and replace the disc springs that should stop it coming loose and melting. If your after new NMS ones daz75 on here has some.

Nah diff is nice and tight ( set perfectly) it's just the heat eventually melts the mms carriers - I have three spare sets of the mms ones - I'm using them in The standard rear diff with mms front diff and mms lay shaft

Just a bit more on the steering I've stole the pics from rc10talk (thanks guys :thumbsup:) this is an old MMS ballraced steering setup
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2bzbqzqq.jpg

And this is the wasp one
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8787ivrp.jpg
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psbpaf2tcv.jpg

Both look a lot better alternative to the sloppy standerd item but not as good as my version :lol:

Ok so I got this paperwork on a old mod from it came with some new front uprights I've got but it's missing the important parts. Did anyone ever run this and if so did it work?
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9tih7rce.jpg
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...pstjihdin8.jpg

This little like c link is what I need I might have a go at making something similar and see how it holds up.

http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psu4bkqvmp.jpg

The procat that I still have has those Tanaplan upper arms on it.

So how so they perform? Do they make much difference and did you still need the roll bars or were they not needed like they state

I'm running the nylon front upper wishbones - same ones I used on it over 25 years ago - they are a spot on. I would be careful using alloy ones it's a part that needs some flex.

It was the wasp one I used back in the 80/90's but I remember it having problems - the sx3 mod is Defo the way

I think so too but I'm going to look at it a bit more as Derbydan said to me earlier about mounting it onto the chassis as to eliminate any flex issues off the top deck.
I'm in the process of sorting a new chassis so this shouldn't be a problem. I just wish I hadn't sold my old Procat chassis I could if drilled a few holes in that to see if it would work.