:lol: A while? ha ha.

Ive emailed pictures to a couple of people, if anybody who asks for them can host them - please feel free to. :thumbsup:

Build complete!

Now I can start writing my review :o My review will take at least a week as obviously it needs to be raced before I can be fair on it. I hope you have enjoyed my picture-build and it has whet your appetite!

The final photos:

http://www.glypo.com/reviews/sx/build/21.jpg

http://www.glypo.com/reviews/sx/build/22.jpg

http://www.glypo.com/reviews/sx/build/23.jpg

http://www.glypo.com/reviews/sx/build/25.jpg

http://www.glypo.com/reviews/sx/build/24.jpg


p.s. I have lots and lots of photos, so if you want photos of something specific I probably already have it. So please, don't hesitate to ask and I will put it up here.

It looks a good car, lots of shiny bits and not much plastic

Are you supposed to thread the +ve cable through the holes in the top deck? It looks quite awkward to get to.

http://www.glypo.com/reviews/sx/build/23.jpg

Ooh, a brushed motor!! think that's the first time i've seen one in an SX. I kept meaning to test with one during the year, but to be honest just couldn't be bothered!

Bungleaio - nope. If you look up on this thread you will see the discussion. The reason I included that photo was to highlight my point. There is about 15 mm gap between top of the cell and the top deck, so it's going to be awkward with TrackPower cells.

Certainly not impossible, but would mean soldering the connectors at right angle, then maybe plugging it in before the slotting cell in car.

However, the two holes on the top deck I think is perhaps where the aerial is mounted on the NiMH version (I need to check manual), so it should be clear on the LiPo (aerial mounts near receiver on LiPo, but rear left of car on NiMH). I am therefore tempted to enlarge the hole in the topdeck so I can thread the power line through.

Cheers for the pics chris:thumbsup:

Here they are for everyone else:)
quote"
Hi mate,
Here’s the Pics. I took three, one from above and one from side as its hard to get a perception of the depth, so the 3rd is the best angle I could get to show the clearance. But the wires are far enough away to not be any worry.

Chris"

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...s/DSCN1591.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...s/DSCN1592.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...s/DSCN1593.jpg

Okay cool.

It's not amazing but it works. Certainly very sad that on perhaps the first ever tenth off-road optimised for lipo - that the most common lipo pack isn't a great fit.

Thanks for the photos Chris, and thanks for hosting stegger.

To be honest, i don't see any real problem with that at all. It's essentially similar position to one of my terminals on my NiMh cells.

Yeh like Matt said, its of no issue to me to plug the positive in before slotting the cells in. I certainly wouldn't compromise the chassis for making it easier to plug in with cells in - as like I said, its of no issue.

Err, im sure Yokomo Mr4-BX has that?

no, yokomo has the opposite - hexes both end.

I think the problem comes from so many different formats of connections with LiPo's at the moment. Although, I must concede, they have gone through the great effort to supply a LiPo only chassis... I don't think it would of taken much to actualy of made the topdeck lipo friendly too, just my thoughts...

But I do think it is a minor over-sight, and not something that can detract from an interesting car design...

I'm sat here with car in front of me - and i really can't work out how a top deck can be "Lipo Friendly". They have made some changes to specifically make this car work with stick pack LiPo's. Obviously the LiPo testing has been done with a Core RC pack.

If you don't like plugging cells directly into the pack, make up a flying lead with Deans on it or something. There are only 2 basic "forms" of LiPo connection.

Has anybody had a chance to try the TrakPower saddle packs? As the terminals are on the long, instead of short, side this would enable you to get them away from the top deck. Not sure if there would be issues regarding clearance with the bodyshell though (or whether the cells would fit as together they're a bit longer than a stick pack).

The car looks great by the way :thumbsup:

Mat, by allowing the plug to go through the topdeck and plug straight in, rather than being thread under the topdeck, and the cell having to be plugged in before fitting them, is all, wouldn't of been hard to do. But like I said, such a minor point.

DCM, its no Durga is it :lol:.

hell no.... haha

Front hex
 

Just a few things:
Part number U3381 - Front wheel hex, is an up-grade part and should not be in as part of the standard kit!! This was a picking/packaging error and has been included in some of the first kits by mistake!!
Also, the offset of the hex's will let you run Losi front wheel but not JConcepts or Associated B44.
The Yellow springs included in the kit are the new type, but the new spring tunning kit is not on sale yet!! However, the old type spring tunning kit (medium/small) is and works fine.
As for spare's, I'd order U3131-Alloy Spacers 0.5/1.0/2.0mm as you don't get enough in the kit to make adjustments! U1573-53mm Titanium turnbuckles for the rear, again so you can make adjustments and run longer links to help the handling. They also make a 37.5mm rear CF Link Mount which all the team cars are running, but I'm not sure of the part number?
Hope this helps!

"Just a few things:
Part number U3381 - Front wheel hex, is an up-grade part and should not be in as part of the standard kit!! "

I'm sorry but that is just a bad choice on behalf on Schumacher. Losi Front 4wd Wheels are the industry standard around the world so why wouldn't a $.35 part be included in the kit when it is one of the most important parts? Hop Ups on a car that cost this much already? why?

Please dont get me wrong, I think the car is an awesome piece of enginering. I was just hoping the kit would be complete and also not have another car on the market with proprietary wheels.

Mine has them in the box.:thumbsup: