Certainly the RC10 B4 white ones I have on mine seem to work fine. In fact I'd say they are better than the Tamiya ones as I don't need to wind my slipper quite so tight now.

Alright thanks spoolio. I know for sure that when i replace the slipper kit pads i will be going with the AE b4 pads. I have heard nothing but good things about them. My question is: When i =s a good time to replace them. What should i be looking for that indicates i need to replace the pads?

I've not had loads of experience with slippers myself but common sense would dictate that if you are getting slip when the spring is fully compressed then its time for a new pair of pads.

This will vary dependant on the surface you run on and motor you use. If you run on a very high grip surface and have a hot motor you will be needing new pads much more than if you run on say loose dirt with a stock silver can 540 (in which case you'll probably never need to replace them).

Yes, very good point there my friend. I guess wear and tear on most RC parts has to do with what's under the hood.
Now on a different note. Do any of you guy's know where i can get the 501x Diff Halves? As well as some blue anodized ball studs? Thanks as always guy's.

You have PM

Hey guys. Was just wondering if i wasted money purchasing the rear universal shafts? I remember this being discussed in the forum a while back, but too lazy to search for it. Im sure you guys know the problem im talking about. The shafts coming out of the rear diff outdrive cups. How can i solve this issue. Thanks.

I assume you are running the Tamiya Aeration Dampers (part no #54028) yes?

If so, you'll need to disassemle the dampers and put some limiters in there under the pistons to stop the arm drooping down too far. People do have different methods of sorting this but I ran 2 red o-rings and one thin black one. I have concluded that while this is 100% effective at stopping the shaft falling out, it is also too restrictive to the handling. So I've gone back to using the kit dogbones in the rear end. Another solution is to mount the dampers a little higher using custom made extensions on the shock tower, but then you can introduce another problem with up-travel/chassis slap.

Its just a bummer that the front end is fine with the universal shafts but Tamiya couldn't be bothered to design the rear end properly so that it works with them properly too. The problem is that the shafts are 501X items and the rear end geometry does not exactly mirror the 501X hence we get these little "issues". Maybe the upcoming option shaft that was announced a few weeks back will solve it, who knows.

I have no problem running them with kit shocks or 3Racing shocks.

I'm planning to get the original TRF501X shock kits from rcmodel because I read somewhere the shock shaft length is equal to the stock CVA/plastic shocks (to remedy the foreseeable issue).

CVA shocks are significantly shorter than 501 shocks. 501WE and DB01 shocks are a few mm longer still due to the new shafts.

I now have my 501 (standard shafts) shocks on the DB01 with around 1mm spacing in each one (can't remember exactly), this seems like ample travel to me with the plastic towers.

Thanks as always my friend. I am a bit disapointed to hear the news on the universals not working properly with the aeration dampers. I guess i should have saved my $20 dollars and used it for something else. I am still gonna try using some o rings like you mentioned, to sort it out. I will let you know how it works out.

I was also wondering if any of you guys have tried on road touring cars. Im thinking about trying something new. My dad is interested in possibly getting into R/C since he's retired and all and has lots of time on his hands. So for his birthday that just passed, i'm going to get him a kit to build. I was looking at some touring cars that look pretty inovative and stuff. Cool looking chassis layouts and all. Im always gonna stick with off road but curious about giving on road a try. The Tamiya TA05 IFS looks pretty sweet and the price on it looks good as well. The TA05 looks very similar to the DB-01 drivetrain. Do any of you guys have any thoughts or advice that you would like to share about on road?

the TA05 is a tank of a car, really robust and handles well, but with all of that style of Tamiya, it takes a few hop-ups to make it work right.... might be worth looking at the TB-03IFS too, Tamiya's latest offering.

To echo what DCM said, the TA05 is an excellent car, forgiving for new drivers yet also 95% as competitive as everything else on the market at the top end. At my local clubs it is a very popular car because it works in all conditions and is good quality. I used to have an R myself and it went so well for such little expense that it started a bit of a trend.

But don't be deceived into thinking it shares any parts with the DB01 - although the design concepts are similar (equal belts, moulded chassis, compatability with high-end parts), they share no parts outside of basic hardware.

the '05IFS-R has the same pulleys as the DB-01....

Hey, thanks guy's once again for your insight. I went ahead and ordered the EBBRO BTEC Maziora TA05 IFS. Like i mentioned before,this kit will be for my dad's B day. I think this kit will be a good introduction into R/C for my paps.
I did notice the new TB03 IFS that you mentioned DCM. I think for myself i will be ordering the second version that is being released on the 1st of November. The second version of this particular chassis has an awesome looking body which is being called the Takata NSX 2008 (58424) I havent built a kit since my Durga, so i will be looking forward to it. Im just hoping that the TB03 will be able to handle BL+Lipo power.

I know this is off-topic but seeing as we have strayed a little anyway I hope no one minds but I have an unused and still in packet Tamiya Ferrari Enzo FXX shell that I bought for my TA05 which I then sold. If anyone wants the shell, they can have it for £12.50 posted to UK (it cost £20 new). I think I'll wander over to the For Sale section and stick it in there too :).

Sounds like a good deal. Too bad im all the way over here in Boston. My TA05 shall be arriving sometime next week. I will be looking forward to getting it assembled and all pimped out for the summer.

According to TamiyaUsa.com
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rcp...ion=&offset=31
the new universals (54118 and 54119) allow wider angles and run 950 bearings.

I've already got plenty of steering lock (and heaps of slop at the extremes :D) so not for me, but in case anybody else is interested in the info.

Interesting that they also come with a new moulded steering upright. This must also increase the lock. Although the downsize to 950 bearings is a bit of a shame, these will not be as durable as the larger bearings in the standard parts - Tamiya only just removed the 950s from the tourers!

I have big problems breaking rear axles on my TRF501X They break where the wheel drive pin goes through the axle.. I wonder if this part will be more durable?

I find the axle bearings take a hammering anyways, so whether they are 9x5 or 10x5 won't show much difference to be honest.

Sorry, I disagree. After dealing with the underdesigned 5x9 bearings in the tamiya touring cars for many years - the switch to a 5x10 was a godsend. Those dinky 5x9 bearing SUCK! They got destroyed frequently and on a regular basis. If you used them in TC mod - they barely lasted one race day even if you don't hit anything. The 5x10's were much more durable. A big thumbs down for the new WO hub carriers and the stupid 5x9 bearings.

I'm not really sure what these are for still? What exactly is the point in these items and are they only for the DB01? I'd not want to go any smaller on the hub bearings - these take a right kicking and bigger is better.

Antnee,

you will never get the money back you paid on hopups when you sell the car (if that makes sense :blush:)

example;

My last TA-05,
kit cost about £80,
Hop-ups - near £250 (no joke, everything was changed)

Thats a total of about £330

The best price i could get on it when i sold it was £80 :cry::cry:

A little for those that are interested in speed. A Novak 3.5r in a Durga with a 15T pinion will give you a GPS-verified max speed of 55mph. You'll need a battery that can live with ~110 amp spikes to do this. :thumbsup:

my little durga
 

after reading reviews and hearing good things about the durga, i finally got one... and I must say... it's nice....thanks!

;)


here's my very own durga

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35...a/IMG_0238.jpg


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35...a/IMG_0239.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35...a/IMG_0245.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35...a/IMG_0246.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35...a/IMG_0248.jpg

Pininy, your durga looks sweet.

Are the front end supposed to be so low?

/tobias

thanks!

No, I've lowered it for the photo shoot, but not sure if it's good idea to keep it so low.

I must say that your Durga is the best looking one that i have seen on here so far. Great job.

Pin,

Looks great as always. I would take those brass bushings out and replace them with 850 bearings. I ran mine with the bushings and after a few runs, it got all sloppy. I have a feeling now that you have the Durga, you're going to neglect your other buggies. Haha.

oh thanks, yeah..planning to.. was thinking that too. thanks!

haha, I might, have been a while since I've got back into buggies..

Just wanted to post my Durga, no fancy upgrades.

http://picasaweb.google.se/tobbe78/RC

/tobias

Mamba Max ESC in a Durga?
 

Hey,

I've been a lurker on this thread for ages, but I don't think I can resist the lure of the Durga anymore...

One question: looking at the pics of Pininy's car, the Novak ESC seems a pretty tight fit, which makes me wonder if my Mamba Max ESC will fit. The Durga's similarity to the TA05 tub has been talked about quite a bit, and I can't fit the MM in my TA05, so will I be up for a new ESC? I don't want to have to chop into the chassis to squeeze it in.

Cheers.

I have run the MM in the Durga myself - so, it should fit! :thumbsup:

I'm using a MM without any problem and no chassis modification.

I want to update you all with my Durga.

After I managed to destroy the original wing, I ended up with a classic new wing...:woot::woot::woot:

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/r...C/DSC01519.jpghttp://i489.photobucket.com/albums/r...C/DSC01522.jpghttp://i489.photobucket.com/albums/r...C/DSC01523.jpghttp://i489.photobucket.com/albums/r...C/DSC01526.jpghttp://i489.photobucket.com/albums/r...C/DSC01527.jpg

The 3Racing shocks are from the Baldre I just sold. I found one willing buyer who wants to buy it at the right price...off it goes :D Now, I haven't had a chance to test the car with the new shocks yet so I'm hoping it will be dialed. One of these days, I will take the picture of the car's interior...it's a bit filthy at the moment:blush::blush::blush:

Are there any other db01 runners doing the MK GP on sunday? I ask as I've mullered a spur gear and am not sure if the spare will arrive by the weekend? Otherwise I'll be pulling out.:cry:. ta.

buy a B4 one and then go down one tooth on the pinion.....

Hi guys, ran my secondhand bought durga for the first time last night, it was AWESOME!!! the local guy i bought it from ran it outdoors on a dry/dusty track, but he only ran it about 3 times so the chassis is in great shape. He put the tamiya upgrade shocks on it, as well as the swaybar set, new bearings and the slipper clutch. I ran in the sportsmans 4wd class (this is U.S indoor track with a bit better than medium bite) I got faster each qualifier and ended up qualified 5th. In the main about 3 minutes in I was all over the 2nd place car when my front right wheel came off at the end of the sweeper :lol: still I had so much fun! the car just felt better and better every time i drove it!. I had read that the car uses the same hex and pin wheel configuration as the losi and the b44, so i bought b44 rims. The first time i drove the car for practice the same wheel fell off so i ended up putting a couple shims on before putting on the wheel, and some loctite also. What is the best solution for this problem, or should i just buy some tamiya rims and go that route? Also, where is the best place in the states to get some carbide diff balls, and what size are they? One more question, my car has about 3 mm of slop in the front arms from the pinholders, would it be worth it to upgrade to the aluminum front pinholders?

Thanks in advance!
Mike

I'll try and answer your questions...

Wheels - There is an issue with the original 501X rims (Tamiya logo aroound the circumference) where the hex is a slightly slack fit which lets the wheels work loose. Use the Durga rims (Tamiya logo on radius) instead which are a snug fit. You still need to check your nuts before each race though - some people switched to the Hotbodies serrated nuts which won't work loose at all . B44 hex is the same across flats but ever so slightly wider so may rub on the hub or not tighten fully without some shims.

Diff balls are 3mm on the Tamiyas. Personally I think the kit steel ones are absolutely fine but many people use ceramic or carbide instead.

Use some shims on the front arms, it will also help to stop the pins being pulled out in a crash. I also think the alloy ones are unnecessary but other people have switched to them.

I (mistakingly) allowed my boy to run his DB-01 indoors yesterday, he got to the first corner, straight on into the wall, and actualy managed to rip the wishbone off the inner hanger, I had put the alloy suspension blocks on, they were fine, the hinge pin on the other hand... well, lets say it is off to meet Mr Hammer and vice... grrrrr