Question about Carbon Chassis
 

Thanks for the update Spoolio. I wasn't aware of the difference between the 3Racing and Tamiya Motor Mount when it comes to the Carbon chassis.

Maybe you can help with another question I had about the Carbon chassis. I noticed that it simulates other 4WD chassis by having open slots under the battery mount and the motor. Is this design for better cooling (hence the optional Motor Heat sink plate sold by Tamiya)? I'm actually more fond of the sealed chassis design to protect the battery on off-road tracks. I never had a problem with batteries heating up during runs, so I never figured out why it's exposed underneath.

It allows the batteries to sit lower in order to lower the CG. If you're running lipo, the slots are not beneficial.

Cracked it, didn't know you could squeeze that much out of a tube when you are desperate :thumbsup:.

I don't have a problem running my Rulux with stock front Durga hex...

I tried them, just to see. They rubbed on the hubs and caused binding - are you running any washers to space the wheels out?

I run the B44 hex on my durga.

Some interesting stuff listed for display at next month's Tokyo Hobby Show.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/hobbyshow/THS08/index.htm

For DB-01, looks like longer rear universals.

Interesting... possibly a solid rear ax?

I wouldn't say longer, I would say UJ and not CVD, it will help square the car up under power, tuning aide type item.

Hmmm, to be honest I'd like them to do some CVDs or UJ shafts that are a tad longer so the bloody things wouldn't fall out of the outdrives. Still, I can't see it personally. What beats me is why they can't just make a "Hop-Up" revised rear tower that mounts the TRF shocks just a little bit higher thus allowing us to use them without limiters and get max travel droop without popping the CVDs.

yes, I agree there though, if enough of us wants them, why not ask Atomic Carbon for front and rear towers?

I wonder how many of us would want, and be willing to pay for them? I posted just this suggestion a page or so back. I have enough used spares to build up a chassis with rear end to send as a pattern if we could get enough interest to ask Atomic. I'll enquire what quantity we'd need for it to be viable / cost etc.

Just normal washers that was instructed by the kit manual.

Other than that, bone stock and no rubbing :thumbsup:

Although I see that once I removed it, the tamiya hex pretty much ate one of my front wheel (it's my fault though, one of my front camber is off)

Do you have any photos of exactly how you got these wheels to fit? just tried again on a new durga and same - they simply don't even spin, never mind work - they are clamped so hard against the hub.
Either I have different rulux wheels to you, or you must have some non-standard front hex spacing? The durga doesn't use any washers up front in the manual

I will when I get a chance.

I had a hard days running the durga today:thumbdown::thumbdown::thumbdown: ended up breaking the rear shock tower. I just replaced my DX3.0 with my KO EX-1 Mars with Spektrum Module and now I have to relearn how to drive again:mad::mad::mad:. Just by replacing the radio, I found all of sudden that:
1. I have SUPER FAST steering from my Futaba S9402
2. Superior linear acceleration from my LRP Sphere TC ESC

and I'm scratching my head thinking (was the DX3.0 transmitter that bad?)

All I know is that I should have driven my ZX-5 RTR, change the steering servo to Z590M and change the motor to Trinity Stock CO27 with 20/78 gearing. That was fun!!! (at the practice only *bummer*).

I just picked up a used Db01 with 3 Racing shocks and some other options for $100 so I think I'll be moving my electronics to that and see what happens because I just could not get my Durga run right :cry::cry::cry:

The shocks will make a huge difference in the stability of the driving. One of the problems with the stock rear shock towers is the travel is just too long on the shaft. Most buggy setups have a shaft travel that bottoms out the chassis. Instead the DB01 shocks hit their limits prior to a chassis slap... this puts all of the travel force of the stock shocks directly on the shock tower. Changing the stock shocks out for almost anything is well worth it. I really like the Tamiya Aeration shocks... running reds back and yellows front.

Check your radio settings, you may have the endpoints wrong which is causing very quick responses. I doubt the DX3.0 is noticeably worse than the KO system.

Perhaps.

But you have to remember that the KO has more adjustments compared to DX3.0 and the radio was intended to be a "budget" system with three channels not a professional system like the Mars. I have not touch the Mars for the past two and a half years so the setting might be a little different now. I might revert all the radio setting back to default and start a new now that I have a spare chassis that I am picking up later today. Supposedly the chassis is setup better than mine and comes with 3Racing shocks so I will play around with it when I can. My current chassis just needed to be rebuilt period lol.

I'm thinking of buying a TRF Damper kit for 501X from rcmodel.hk in the near future with a possibility of converting my original chassis with the carbon chassis (and use the parts as a spare to my newer DB01; my current one is kinda abused lol) creating a DB01R/MS :lol::lol::lol:

Wish me luck ;)

LOL. Amazing how that happens, eh? Similar experience here this week with going to a Futaba 9452 servo from a Futaba 3004.

WRONG... I finally finished my DB01 build and the issue with the uptravel is due to the rear arms hitting the chassis in the short wheelbase setting as mentioned before. A little dremel work and everything feels fine. Just needs stiffer springs...

yeap its a quick and easy enough job but if you don't do it and try to run short wheelbase you'll get a rather poorly handling car landing from jumps and the like.

Did Worksop yesterday. Car finished the day looking the same as it started which was a bonus. Drove like someone who'd never seen an RC car before let alone driven one (taking a wheel off my RC10 3 seconds after the start of the very first round must be a record and knocked my confidence a lot). This version of my Durga (there are about 12 parts off the original car) had never turned a wheel before the first 4WD qualifier so every lap on the main straight was at granny speed while I tweaked the steering trim and then it was a case of babying it round in case the diff started slipping.

Changed the motor twice (from 5.5 to 7.5 then to a 6.5L) and lost count of the number of pinion changes. On the plus side, finally having the guts to totally ignore the LRP gearing recommendations paid off as I ended up with a motor I could touch at the end of each heat instead of something that could set off a fire alarm :thumbsup:.

Needed to tighten up both diffs and swapped springs but finished my final one place up from where I started and my laps got better each time albeit I was still slooooowww (first lap 37.5 secs down to a best of 31).

I ran the centre one way and I think it transformed the car, made it feel a bit more chuckable - now I just need to find out what I should do with it after I've lobbed it into the corner as I only got it right a few times :lol:.

Respect to Ian Clamp (hope I got that right) who ran his Durga in the 2wd class minus its front driveshafts as the 4wd class was full up, and he still beat me (anyone wanna buy a B4?).

I ran the rear shocks with 2 thin black o-rings and 2 red ones so I could revert back to CVD's but I think that was a bit (OK a lot) too much so I'll take them all out and go back to the dog bones for the next round. Also, the centre belt rollers are causing me "issues" so they are coming out too.

Nice to see some other Durgas out for a change, Ian Robertson's was going very well (shame you went home, you missed a raffle prize fella).

good stuff, my Durga was under the table but it wasn't playing yesterday. I've had my car going very well round worksop so the car is more than capable.
I've not run the centre one way but the front one way definitely livens things up. What were the problems with the diffs? just not tight enough or....?

if you are running some power, and you got the plastic outputs, the glue can dislodge and melt your rear diff

No problems at all thankfully, I was just being ultra cautious as when I built the car first time round the diff needed major bedding in. This version which I built up over the summer lay-off (I don't do outside racing - too many other things to do) has 501X diff halves front and rear and kanzen balls so I'm happy it'll take the power but as you'll appreciate I didn't want to risk it on the first run. Once I'd got the first round out of the way I was a bit more exuberant on the throttle, but I still fell off on the slow bits (feckin carpet :thumbdown:) far too much. I only started racing in October 07 and I think I've done about a dozen meetings so far so I've got a way to go yet.

I took my camera hoping to get some nice shots but as the fastest lens I currently have is an f4.0 it was perhaps predictably...crap.

Well, I was running the same servo except the Radio has a slightly faster co-processor I think. I can't imagine driving it with the 2123FET I have on my touring car :woot::wtf::wtf::woot::woot:. I'm taking some racing timeoff so I should have enough time to thinker with the setting. The problem is, the car is fine on pavement but super sketchy on dirt. I'm going to pop in some 3Racing shocks to see if I can find a right balance whilst I can find a better shock for the time being. I am eyeing on the Kyosho ZX-5 RTR plastic shocks because at least they are adjustable while Tamiya plastic isn't plus they are of a better materials than the CVA shocks anyway (thermoplastic, I think). I'm currently cutting down on R/C spending as I am trying to buy a new car (2009 Honda Jazz, no less) so the parts is on hold until next week.

Jimmy, the Rulux picture may take a little while to take so I will put it up as soon as I can. Also, I will try to put it on the Baldre I just pick up this weekend to see if I was just...uhm...lucky? :thumbdown::confused:

Can somebody please tell me where the kingpins are located on the Durga? Thanks.

they are what the front hubs pivot on - one from below, one from above.

Thanks Jimmy. Your the RC man.

Safe motor temps - brushed
 

I was hoping someone might shed some light on this subject... I am currently running my Durga for off-road club racing. I'm starting with the Rookie class since I am new to RC racing.

I have spend a couple weeks gathering the math to calculate gear ratio's, rollout, estimated MPH etc. All these numbers help to determine possible pinion choices and expected changes to your car when you swap out a motor, tires, etc - which is all great!

The one thing I have had trouble finding is the expected temperature tolerances for brushed and brushless motors.

Most have said that you want to keep your motor below 160F after a 5min run and never exceed 175F (both brushed and brushless).

I ran a new Trinity 27Turn with a 19T pinion last night... After 5min the motor temperature was pretty spot on at 155F (ESC was at 140F). I let it cool and put it through a longer 12min run and tested again - The motor was 178F and the ESC was 156F...

I also tried running a higher tooth pinion and as predicted it ramped up the temps after 5min runs so I backed down to the 19T since it appears to be safer overall.

Can anyone confirm if these temps are normal for a brushed motor? I cut the vents in the body (protected it with fly screen) for added airflow, but have not made the 'hot weather' cut in the rear since I am still running slow motors. Thanks.

Dan

Rulux on Durga
 

Hi Jimmy,

here are the pics you requested.

I'm not sure if they are clear enough or of the ones you were looking for but I was having a hard time trying to get a picture of the actual gap between the rims itself and the knuckle.

here goes nothing:eh?::
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01310.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01311.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01312.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01313.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01315.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01317.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01320.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01321.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01322.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01325.jpg

Can you get a pic of the hub without the wheel on there? These wheels don't fit my cars (any of them) without the B44 hex on there - they just rub on the hubs and barely move. :(

Jimmy have you tried adding a spacer inbetween the hex and the wheel? That is what james helliwell was doing with his B44 wheels on the cat because the hexes are the standard losi size.

Yeah Jim, Like Ben said, stick a washer in there and they are fine. When i looked at it the bearing side of the hex was flush with the face of the fitting on the wheel so i just stuck a 1mm thick nylon washer in there for extra clearance, had zero rubbing issues.

PM me and i'll tell ya where i get em. They fit nice and snug in the hex and dont bugger off when i take the wheel off!!!

Jimmy, did you put the A13 small washer before putting the bearings on the front hub carriers?

*UPDATE* pictures posted.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01326.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01327.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01328.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01332.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01333.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01334.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01336.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...h/DSC01338.jpg

Im trying to sell my durga currently and not really had any interest.

its got
front CVD's
Slipper clutch
Tonys screw kit
rear alu suspension mounts

Ive been asking £120 posted, does this seem to high to you bearing in mind the amount the hop ups cost?

Hi there - I saw your car ad before and decided , you're asking for FB so here's my take on it, don't take it personnally and remember it only involves my opinion ;)

A new Durga is less than $150. The hop ups on there are worth about $60/70 at most if I'm not mistaken. Add $30 shipping... that makes $250, for new gear, which I would build by *my* standards (no offense intended but I know I've been disappointed by EVERY second-hand car I've bought in the last 10 years).

My best advice to you is to put it on ebay and see how much it fetches. On a "specialized" off-road rc site like this I think you'd need to be very lucky to get your asking price for it.

My 2 cents... keep in mind you asked for them ;)

Paul

(PS - additionally, anyone boasting "bluebird" in his sig looks dangerous to me ;) )

Hi Antnee,

Like Lonestar says the price you are asking is quite high. One of the downsides of Tamiya gear from a sellers perspective is that (particularly on sites like this) you are trying to sell to people who may not be averse to using the import market. This will always put you at a price disadvantage if you are going on UK prices. I know the UK retail for a Durga alone is about £125 - £135 but to give you an idea, mine cost £74. A lot of people will conveniently forget about shipping costs when they are deciding what a car is worth. For example if I do that, my car with all the bits yours had came to $210 which at the time cost me about £110. Shipping added £40 to that but I factored that out.

When I have sold a car in the past I've always worked on the basis that if it is still current when I sell it (as your Durga is) it will be worth 50% of its new kit price, same for all the hop-ups. I'm not saying you should put it up for that but if you take that as a realistic bottom price then anything above that is a bonus.

The last Durga I saw on ebay - admittedly bog standard - went for £67 a couple of months ago. I'm sure there have been more since then but I haven't been watching.

Hope you do sell it for a fair price anyway mate.

bugger, paid £120 for the kit only back in May I think it was, then paid about £50ish (including p+p) for the hop-ups :(

Hey at least you have a great sense of humour - your sig file is awesome :D

:thumbsup:

good luck with the sale :)

Paul

Do the Associated B4 slipper pads work correctly with the Durga's spur gear?