search for walawala on ebay.....

Lookup all the sizes and get some from avidrc, I get all my bearings from there..

http://www.avidrc.com/

Bought some.

Thx Tom!

Armand

Thanks again for your advice guy's. I will be looking at both places for bearings once i get a moment. Do you guys think it would be worth upgrading to nicer bearings compared to the kit supplied ones? Let me know what you think. Thanks. A.J.

no, not really, the bearings on the hubs will get sloppy anyways, so you can spend three times as much and replace them the same amount of time. Got for Rubber Shields if you can, at least you can pop them shield off and flush them out.

Hey DCM. No such luck for me finding Walawala on ebay for bearings. Any suggestions?

Random thought, but anyone notice that the 501X diffs are 8 balls instead of 12 balls for the DB01?

The original 501X diffs are smaller, the Worlds Edition comes with the larger pulleys and the balls increase in number. The Durga comes with these same big pulleys which give a longer life so are a lot better for a car like this.

Here you go:
http://stores.ebay.com/WalawalaStore...Q3amesstQQtZkm

Gotcha. Looking at the old manual, so now I realize I don't have enough balls... :cry: Story of my life.

Does anyone know the exact internal ratio for Durga? Is it 2.055 or 2.053 or 2.1? I stripped my 91T Spur over the weekend and had to settle for AE Kimborough B4 87T spur and now I'm confused on what final gear I should run.
Currently I'm running stock 23T with it and while it is running ok, I can feel that I lost some top speed on the back straight that I had with 23/91.:cry:

Please advice.:wub

22T will get you close.

91/23 = 3.957
87/22 = 3.955

Then multiply it out by the internal ratio.

You might find this useful:-


http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/cars/...-gearchart.pdf


:thumbsup:

Thanks man!!!!

I just ordered a complete set of DB-01 bearings which are Year Racing brand. Does anyone know if they are good or not? I probably should have asked this question before i placed the order lol.

yeah racing just buy bulk bearings, but without the actual bearing code, it is difficult to tell

So far no problem. They definitely are not bad, I havent noticed any diference between Yeah and Tamiya packaged units.

Thanks for the input guys. I got another question about the carbon reinforced bits for the Durga. Has anyone actually bought these and is their a noticable difference compared to the kit plastic?

they are stiffer!!

Yup, like what he said. Deffo stiffer - can't really tell a difference in weight though. In fact fitted with the alloy heatsink I reckon my chassis may be a tad heavier.

By the way is it just me or does anybody else notice that the DB01 can be a bit front heavy on jumps? Mine seems to need a good blip midflight to stop it landing on its nose and flipping over, more than cars with rear mounted cells anyway. As I say though, it could just be me.

it is you, mine jumps great... a bit to good... now I got a brokwn rear shock tower from my tomfoolery haha

I found that my Durga jumps much better than my 501x :thumbsup:

Fair do's. See my signature, that says it all :p.

I had to order a new front diff cover so i went with the obvious choice of the carbon bits. The screws in my kit supplied cover had a problem where the screw go in from the shock tower. Screws kept poppin out on some bid jump i have been bashing on. Great fun by the way. I actually ended up ordering most of the carbon reinforced bits except for the chassis. I should be expecting those and some other stuff from rcmart. I also ordered some of the pro line dirt hawg buggy tires. They are a on road/ off road tire.

I accidentally ripped part of a tire insert and was wondering if there would be any way to repair it before using it? Advice would be greatly appreciated as always.

Hi guys. I think I figured out the rear shock tower issue. It is NOT that the wing is mounted in contact with it (I don't think lexan can transmit enough force to break that part), but I think it's a shock issue. As referenced in another thread, the DB01 has a lower rear shock tower than the 501X. This is why we are having such issues with the rear ride height using the TRF springs, limiters, etc... I've got 6mm of limiters in my rear shocks just to get a reasonable amount of down travel.

The problem is that the rear wheels lack uptravel due to the lower position of the shock tower, and thus the shock body. The chassis barely even bottoms out before the shocks have reached full compression, and that's with a lot of tire squish. Most every offroad car I've seen allows the chassis to bottom out and then another 1/2" or 10mm or so further uptravel. We don't always land jumps square. If you land it a little crooked, all of the force of the landing will be transmitted into the shock tower when one of the shock bottoms out prematurely. Snap.

I've only got the TRF dampers, so I don't know if this also applies with the kit shocks. Can someone else with kit shocks verify? I'm trying to figure out a work around. I'd hate to have to use shock position to get it done. Ideally there is a shorter shock body available.

I can see your logic however it doesn't necessarily stand up.

I broke my first tower on the cars first race meeting, using the CVA shocks which do not have a bottoming out issue. This was with the wing as standard.

Moved the wing back, and the tower has not broken in at least a dozen race meetings indoor and out, more than half of which have been run on TRF shocks (although it did develop a hairline crack in the problem area through the wing mount screws which I superglued before the last race meeting and which managed to hold out).

Everyone running this car should move the wing back.

Sadly I do not know of any way of solving the TRF damper uptravel issue unless you know someone with the correct tools (lathe and a lot of skill basically) to cut down the bodies by 3mm and cut a deeper thread for the top caps.

Maybe we should petition Atomic Carbon to make some revised towers out of their lovely (creep creep) thick carbon fibre so we can use the TRF shocks and CVD's without having to faff about with internal limiters to prevent too much droop.

In fact, if they wanted a car to use as a pattern I would offer my kit chassis and tower up for measurements as I've now migrated to a carbon chassis and tower.

Go one guys, surely there would be enough people to buy some?

Gearing
 

Will a TRF501X 96 tooth spur fit a Durga?

Apologies, I may have asked this before but this thread is er, quite long now :lol:.

I'm trying to stay TCS legal on this one, so I'm out. Can anyone tell me if the original 501X rear shock bodies are shorter than the TRF dampers?

From my understanding the 96T spur will not fit the Durga.

It seems things have slowed down on the oople forums as of the past month or so.

I guess it all depends what you are looking at. Some topics are hot, some warm and some can be stone cold dead for quite a while. It's just the natural way of things I suppose.

For example, watch the Schumacher CAT threads, now the thing has actually been released I expect it'll explode. Same for the Yokomo B-Max one in a month or so.

The Durga thread has done really well but it is over a year old now. I still love mine though :wub

Oops, just checked. This thread is not officially elligible for a birthday cake until the 22nd of this month, I could have sworn its been going longer.

Sucks that this thread has slowed down. Here's pics of my WIP build so far. And the bunch of parts that it started as...:woot:

thats bling-a-ding-a-liscious!!!

Christ this thread is long. Sorry if this is in the thread already but how much would it cost to build a durga fully blinged up and stuff?

Thanks ben:)

ps i couldnt be arsed to look for the answer:lol:

a lot dude, but really you don't need to, honestly, just get some essentials, the whole good thing about the Durga... is it is cheap!!

ben - More than a 501XWCE... I just like plastic tub chassis for off-road cars, so I went this route instead. Most racers here are finding that the DB01 chassis handles better. And DCM is correct, you don't need most of this stuff. If I were to do it all over again, I'd just get a few key components:

Alloy suspension blocks and mounts
Maybe those TA05 hingepins?
Slipper clutch
TRF dampers
501X outdrives
Universals
Carbon mix A, M
501X eccentric belt rollers
Upgrade turnbuckles?

to be honest, if you want performance and reliability...

Slipper clutch
501X rear outdrives
front CVD's
3Racing suspension mounts
and maybe the Carbon Graphite shock towers

Other than that, the rest is personal taster