We raced at the Telford regional on Sunday and ran the BMax4-2 rear wishbones with the BMax4-3 4.3mm hexes and the car is approximately 1.5mm narrower than the standard BMax2 MR rear end but if you fit the 5mm BMax4-3 rear hexes it makes the rear width the same :thumbsup:

I see quite a few of the yokomo team running rear roll bars on their bmax 2's

What's the part number for the roll bar kit? Is it a straight bolt on mod?

its listed on mb's site. the AE b4/b44 one fits also.

I've tried this over the winter indoors, but found the car better with a harder rear spring.
You get the rear end collapsing mid corner with a soft spring, the roll bar helped, but still had collapse. gone to a harder spring, and much better rear traction on low traction tracks.

Cheers Neal, I assume it'll be fine with bmax 4-2 rear arms ?

yes, ill check location of the ball on the arm to be sure. not used the roll bar since i went to bmax4-2 rear arms.

Naoto's car today: http://eos.redrc.net/2014/04/chassis...o-matsukura-3/

hes runnning normal rear arms and the roll attaching to the front of the arm, not the moulded ball.

its fine. you can use the regular roll bar with the bmax 4-2 rear arms.

Thanks Neal :thumbsup:

Just a pic to help others who wish to add the roll bar to their bmax2's

Part no: BM-412

Pic:

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/y...CC80C79CA4.jpg

The only extra you will need is 2 x bolts and washers to hold the roll bar in the bulkhead, I used bolts from B44 roll bar kit

Same way I'm running them. Thanks for the picture though :thumbsup:

Hi,

apparently a lot of people are starting to use the rear arms of the BMAX 4-II.

What's the difference between the rear arms of the BMAX 4-II and BMAX 4-III?

The rear arms of the BMAX 4-III seem to be around 2mm wider than the BMAX2. and fit the car like a glove. I tried them on low traction carpet and absolutely loved the car.

Cheers.

They use the 4-II arms because they are shorter. Resulting in less grip but more steering. (Rear is more narrow)
Running on high grip astro it can be a very usefull tuning option.

Just bought the gear diff for my buggy. Bought some 5000cst diff oil as well as I didn't realise it came with a tub of lube. Which would you guys use, and how much? Also any other tricks to do to it before installing?

forgot to say will be used on med bite astro and grass

5000 is perfect, if you look at Lee martins set ups he tends to run 5k oil most of the time.

Just fill it up till the oil is just over the cross pins

Yes, 5000 oil is great. I've run it with PTFE grease since the old version with the plastic gears was released and recently changed to 5000 oil, which has been an improvement. I think it is more consistent, the car has tons of on-power steering and there is no diffing-out. :thumbsup:

MIP Shiney Drive system incoming for the Bmax 2MR

wonder if we'll be able to get them as Schumacher are the UK distributors for MIP

http://www.redrc.net/2014/05/mip-puc...for-b-max2-mr/

I'll give them a miss, drivershaft wear doesn't seem to be an issue with the 2wd. It would be a nice option for the B-Max4 including centre shafts as gear diffs generally pumle the drivetrain.

My drive shafts are still fine after a year of racing. Quality is fine and I wouldn't bother buying the MIP axles. Just do regular maintenance to the Yokomo shafts and you are good to go.

What is a good regular maintenance regime on the drive shafts? :confused:

Clean them after a day of racing. Make sure there is no dust on the diff side.
Clean the wheel side and apply new grease

I use driveshaft boots filled with grease on the wheel side.

In the outdrive I put an old piece of tire foam with a bit of grease on it. The foam ensures the outdrive to be relubed, and that most of the dirt is pushed away, when the suspension is compressed.
That piece of foam is replaced about every 3 days of running ( exept when its wet / really dusty, than every day )