well jimmy if you had those pic pls post here
anyway i got myself fluorine coated balls and carbon reinforced m parts
should get that carbon reinforced a parts too if i had known

I realised earlier, in my big crash, it also broke the top of the shock, the cap bit, :( Ive glued it as it was only a little broken so I'll see how that goes!

:mad: Not doing very well with this durga :mad:

Second race, 6 laps it, bit of a griding noise coming from the rear take it apart to find
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...DSC00669-1.jpg
Shreded rear diff:mad:

not happy :mad: as I thought the diff's were fine, but it was obviously not tight enough as the metal rings are still firmly on the plastic drives

Animal! :o You should always check the diffs, get into the habit of just twisting a wheel round every time you hold the car. The diffs on these cars (apart from that naff plastic holder) are really very good - but like any diff they need looking after and especially when new they will loosen.

maybe who knows 3 or yeah racing will come out with an alu diff :thumbsup:

it ISN'T the diff, but if you are having a diff that is killing itself, then replace at least the diff nut, dip the screw in some threadlock too. You can upgrade to the steel diff's, but I just done a whole national and two club meets on a 5.5 sintered motor and not had an issue, I just regularly check diff tension. If you don't, you will stll melt pulleys with the steel diff outdrives.

I thought it was all ok, untill it just started going slower and slower

Hi all,

Was wondering if any one has good setup tips on racing the DB01 on carpet (smooth surface).

My DB01 simply doesn't want to turn. As its a Tamiya race, we have to us the Tamiya tires. :bored:

Any input is welcome. Thanks in advance.

limit the rear droop, that'll stop it hanging on for so long and allow the car to turn.

Try my setup that I posted in the setup thread. I used that on a track where all but one of the corner apexes was on carpet and it worked pretty well for me.

The key change for consistency on high grip in my book is putting the rear shocks on the outer hole of the wishbone. Limiting droop makes a difference but also makes the car less stable on the bumps, personally I prefer to get the wheel rates stiff enough to limit roll without compromising the bump handling.

I am finding at the moment, I am putting limiters in the 501X shocks so they are going back to giving the same amount of droop as the kit shocks, the BIG droop seems to hinder more than help in corner performance.

Still got a nasty rear kick over sharp bumps though.... going to have to invest in pistons me thinks

Any shops in the UK stock the diff pulleys?

Thanks for the advice. Will try out.!! :thumbsup:

Just got by Durga kit, making the differentials and the manual says "be careful not to overtighten" but I've also heard there are problems from having them loose so what "tightness" should I be aiming for (I imagine I will have to retighten after a few runs).

Realise it's hard to describe but should I just tighten as much as I can by hand using a small allen key or will that be too much?

Google is your friend :)

http://www.google.co.uk/products?hl=...&um=1&ie=UTF-8

I didn't try THAT hard but I couldn't see the diff pulley on demon? the one way pulley is different, I do have a spare of that but not the diff pulley.

Hand tight (normal hands, not builders hands!) on initial assembly, check once in the car, recheck after a couple of runs.

Basic setting is not to slip easily (hold the spur and one wheel and try to turn the other), and the diff action should be smooth but with a little resistance, not spinning free.

Thanks, that's what I have done, will crack on with the rest now :)

I was wondering if any of you guys could suggest an alternative to the urethane bushings that fit into the Diff joints? They are the pink circular foam thingy's. Thanks.

A.J.Gee, I make my own (Pink Foamy things) from old bumper rubbers or similar dense foam.
I have a section of broken ariel tube, which if you press and twist into the foam will cut a roughly cylindrical section which you cut into the desired length; hope this helps.
The same thing I also use to stop dogbones rattling in the outdrives.

if you get the filter tips for roll-up cigarrettes, they cut in half and are an exact fit.

Another moment towards my 15 minutes...

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/nercr...dNERCR0019.jpg

My Durga in one of the photos in the oople report from the South Shields regional.

What body is that?

its, a, durga body! :thumbsup:

finally i got my db01 shocks today:thumbsup:

i'm using front and rear universal, how many mm of spacers do i need to install into the front and rear shocks to prevent the universals from popping out?

any advice on the springs?

thanks!:)

Now I'm not sure how long the shafts are in the new shock set but you will probably need a few spacers - I am running mine at 80mm overall length front and 98mm overall length rear which seems a good balance between good travel and not losing driveshafts (I am still running dogbones in the rear).

For springs use the kit Durga ones (which are option DF03 ones). They are a good rate for the car and since they are a bit shorter than the TRF ones they give a good ride height too.

Hey thanks a lot. Very good idea.

Very brilliant idea. I appreciate that. I will definitley be using this alternative method.:thumbsup:

I just cut a triangular bit of tyre inner foam for the one way drive cups - it's softer so doesn't bind up the suspension or drivetrain like the tamiya supplied orange things do.

The thing that most annoys me about the Tamiya urethane bushings is that they break up inside the head of the diff screw, so when you pull them out the diff screw is full of gunk that you need to scratch out before you can do any adjustments! I will probably make something out of an old bit of inner foam at some point myself.

Just a curious question here. I was wondering how often some of you guys change your damper oil? Another question on my mind is when you have the spring off of your dampers and you push the piston all the way in, how far is the piston supposed to rebound back? Mine come back about 1/3 or maybe less then the piston length.

I tend to setup my car so it has about 1/4 rebound and quite soft on full compression.

I can never seem to get both the dampers for the front and rear to rebound the same distance. I have them pretty close but when it comes to my buggy's i am a bit of a perfectionist.

By the way Sosidge, your buggy looks bad ass in that one photo. I love the white with the durga body shell. Makes me wish i went with a similar theme. I was wondering, what kind of tires you have on it. Are they the mini pins/spikes? I might have to pick me up a set.

BAD ASS! Yeah baby - that's me!

I didn't choose white for the street cred though - I do all my shells white because it is EASY and I can SEE them! The tyres are Schumacher Minispikes in yellow compound - pretty much the default tyre for dry grass tracks here in the UK.

To get even rebound you will probably need to drill the holes in the caps and find some tiny screws to bleed them with - but to be honest a small difference in rebound isn't going to kill you. I just fill mine enough so that when they are fully compressed I neither feel any stiffening of the damping nor get more than just a tiny squeak of air bubbles, that seems to work fine for me!

I noticed a lot of people talking about the dog bones falling out if you don't put at least 3mm of limiters inside the 501x shocks. I don't notice this. In fact I'm thinking of removing 3mm and having a lot more droop to soak up big jumps & ruts in the rough track that I am running on. What do yall think? Is it just the universals that fall out or the dog bones too?

droop is a give here take there adjustment, I find that the droop may help rough terrain absorbsion but makes the car a lot more wallowy in the corners.

If my car bounced after a pretty high landing, then more droop would help that right? I don't want to go with heavier oil because that would effect steering and other things as well, right? Am I thinking in the right direction?

well, yes and no, see, no matter how much droop you have, depending on the jump, depends if you get chassis slap, and given loads of droop isn't really the answer.

I watch the kids cars going round on the stock shocks, and they look far more behaved than mine... grrrr

Droop gives more travel to soak up those landings, so may well help a landing "bounce", yes. Worth a test.

Well, mine slaps just like it did (maybe not as bad) with the stock shocks. But, with the length suggested on sosidge's base setup, the 501x shocks are only 1 or 2mm longer than the stock ones. So I can understand why it slaps almost as bad. I'll rebuild them a little longer and see if I can keep the back end from bottoming out so badly.