Yeah thats the one. There were 2 choices, this or the Futaba, and the KO had slightly better specs - plus I've loads of KO stuff and never owned a Futaba servo beyond the basic stuff.
Torque and speed are nothing special on paper but it does perfectly well in my 501X.

I have - ONE receiver. Which gets swapped round like a little slut-receiver between all my cars. Some of which are a real pain to install into. I modified the Durga aerial mount to make it a bit easier to install the wire.

I put a slight flat on the mount first, to stop my drill slipping around - then put a 45 degree hole into the mount. Now I can just poke the wire in the side and it peeks out of the top. Sorry - simple I know but it made me happy so thought I'd share. :)

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/misc/db01aerialmod01.jpg

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/misc/db01aerialmod02.jpg

sod the aerial mount trick, is that the rcscrewz kit on it jimbo?

hahaha
you'd be mistaken there - that's a big flash bouncing off the ceiling and making the kit screws look more 'bling' than they really are! ;)

you got a little wear on your front belt there too Jimbo.

this was what i've done today...

install slipper, replace all the screws with titanium (so many screws again!), put in a tamiya BZ23T motor and gear up to the max 23pinion....

ran it, stupid fast! hahahaha.......and melted part of the lousy rubber connector cover between the motor and esc. the rest of the units are fine. need some deans i guess....and to gear it down...i'll try the 17pinion tomorrow...

does any of you feel that the front arms wobble more than the rear? the manual say 2pcs of 3x0.2mm shims for each side but i've added 1 more tonight and it feels better.

I do? :wtf: where?!

I've shimmed my arms out to be virtually slop-free but still smooth, needed 0.5mm+ on all the arms plus a few small shims at the hub carriers too.

It is just a habit I have got into over the years.

I've actually been pondering moving my antenna mount somewhere else on the car, since the centre cover has been coming off my car so frequently for motor access it gets pretty boring re-threading the antenna every time too.

Unfortunately there isn't a super-obvious place so I have that idea on hold right now.

I got a whacking hole in the centre cover for motor and pinion access, so that cover never comes off.

Jim, on the side of the belt, there is red chord showing.

:D thats how Tamiya make them dude!

Added the 3racing shocks tonight,anyone any ideas what oil comes as standard in these?
They seem to be the same as the df03 3racing shocks
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...o/PC180006.jpg

Missed the posty today with my titanium screw set..........bugger :(

man I would be crap at reviews, little things heehee....

I got some TC three racing shocks and were very disappointed, if I were you I would strip em down, check what pistons are in there and put your own oil in and make sure them o-rings are lubricated

In the past I have found 3 Racing shocks to ruin the handling, Horrible crap, Its like they never even tested them on the cars they sell them for. I'd rather keep the stock shocks.

That aside, I went racing today.

Car performed pretty well, We were holding a (demonstration) meeting in the pit area at one of NZ's bigger race meetings (real race cars). The surface was like ball bearings so I struggled for traction, The track rutted up so the car became unstable, The jumps had only flat areas to land on, and I was pushing hard so I manged to ruin the spur by the end of the day.

Though everyone had to contest with the track so its no big issue.

Definitely needs tires, shocks, slipper.

But, she jumped well, cornered awesome if I stayed out of the deep dust off the racing line, and went like a demon down the big straight and around the sweeper.

Me too. In fact, you know they never test them for the cars. They just use the same pistons and springs rates on whatever car, buggy or truck they are for and just make the shocks longer or shorter. They usually have too much damping so use the pistons with the most holes (2 holes if I remember) and those springs are stiff! I had a set on my DF-03 and they were great at keeping the chassis off the ground but to tune the buggy for racing, I just couldn't find springs that worked. Tamiya, Kyosho, Associated springs were too narrow. Losi springs were slightly wide and much too long. I just went back to kit shocks with (I think) 1 hole in the front and 2 hole in the rear (Or might be the other way around too) with the Tamiya DF-03 spring set (black, gold, silver) and that worked well with the CVA plastic shocks.

Hopefully the mailman delivers my Durga tomorrow with a slipper and some springs for the DF03 Alu damper set I have lying around.

I'm glad I've read the review you posted Jimmy because now I know I have to thread those holes. However could anyone tell me what tap I need? M3 or M2?

M3 tap, thats the one

I Durga'd at the Southport GP today - fairly happy with the result but I really needed something more than bald tyres on the car as I was struggling for traction everywhere.. oh well. I got a 9 and 8 in round - not sure what I got in the last one as I got my quickest time but others might have done better. I was in the A final until the final round and got pushed into B2. In the final I was challenging for the lead for a lap or so, then a small mistake - followed by a whole host more.. I couldn't actually see the left hand side of the track because the guy next to me was leaning right forward - that's my excuse.

540 silver cans
 

Dunno if this has been asked b4 but is it recommended to run a capacitor across the motor wires of these 540's ?...I will be wiring it up to an ancient Tekin 410s (until stock racing starts and then I'll switch to the SP GT and a 13.5 BL)

yes you do