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-   -   Build Questions (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9178)

KevLee 02-05-2008 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveG28 (Post 120239)
The higher the grip of the track the better the 0 degree hubs work, on grass it was very good, on dirt and in the wet I've struggled.

with the shocks, I can't tell the drill bits from each other, but I'm hoping I'll be ok with roughly 1.3mm rear holes (whichever Losi drill is closest to that I used) and one size smaller at the front. No spares so screwed if their too big!

Jimmy, I used Tamiya shocks at the first regional, you'd need to change spacers etc on the top mount to make it work right (I had them at an angle and bent three shock shafts!) but its much better than pre-fixed Aero ones!

Dave, 1.3mm is close to a 55 hole (slightly smaller i think) so it won't be far off. I just feel it works better with 56 (1.2mmish).

This is a table showing you the drill size dimensions in inches
http://www.gcrossett.com/zipzaps/tech/drill_bits.htm

DaveG28 02-05-2008 03:52 PM

Haven't got access to my instructions at the moment so have a quick question:

With the spacers you put on the pistons above the ball cups, is it the thinner ones to the front?

Lee 02-05-2008 03:57 PM

If you mean the external spacers on the shock shaft then yes it is the thinner at the front, i actually run 2 O rings on the rear end instead of the large spacer:)

KevLee 02-05-2008 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveG28 (Post 120350)
Haven't got access to my instructions at the moment so have a quick question:

With the spacers you put on the pistons above the ball cups, is it the thinner ones to the front?

Yes thats how you run it standard.

But If you put the longer type ballcup at the rear you don't need a spacer, maybe just use the very thin one to let the spring retainer sit correctly.

Also, on the front if you choose to run the one-way you may ned another spacer and/or dremel the end of the driveshaft to stop it fouling at full suspension travel.

hope that helps

DaveG28 02-05-2008 04:40 PM

Yeah that helps thanks, useful tip too as I need to change some ball cups and don't think spares are available yet? This gives me some options with them!

KevLee 02-05-2008 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveG28 (Post 120372)
Yeah that helps thanks, useful tip too as I need to change some ball cups and don't think spares are available yet? This gives me some options with them!

I'm not 100% sure but i thought these were available now? have you checked with the raceplace?

If you do run the turnbuckle type ballstud i'd recommend cutting it down to the same length as the normal ballcup and spacer together, otherwise you will have too much droop.

DaveG28 02-05-2008 05:18 PM

Cheers Kev, last checked with them about a week ago, I'll try again!

Dave

redscott 24-05-2008 06:51 AM

servos?
 
what servos do u all use?
I tried to use my hitec coreless ultra speed hs-965mg its way to big. im looking for something with high speed, good torque, and if possible metal gears. thanx n advance.

KevLee 24-05-2008 09:36 AM

Hi Redscott, I use the KO 2413ICS and i really get on with it, so much so i put one in my 2wd too.

Some use the Futaba short stack servo (not sure of the number) which seems pretty good also

Dunc 24-05-2008 09:50 AM

The Futaba low-profile servo model number is S9551. I don't think this has been out too long so you may still be able to purchase its predecessor, the S9550, as well (although I guess the specification isn't as good for this one).

KO have got some new low profile services coming soon (the 2511 & 2512; click here), but don't appear to have released any specifications yet so I'm not sure how these compare to the 2413.

HTH.

DaveG28 06-06-2008 02:38 AM

Has anyone managed to set the slipper without the "slipper tool" without bending the screw?

When I tried the screw bent, I am building another tomorrow and would like to not bend the damn thing this time!

jimmy 06-06-2008 09:49 AM

Other than not having a proper tool for the nut, no - no problems. I just jammed a small screw driver in there and tightened it until it felt about right.


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