Pics?

Then you must have gotten a really bad kit :( Mine was a dream to build, apart from some small problems, but hey, it's the first batch!
It was some screws missing in the bags, but i found them all in the "extra bag". I had problem with the diff like some others here. The nut didn't go deep enough in the outdrive. But i had a second kit and build a second diff, that one turned out great :)
Experience from all this: Great quality as usual from Durango! Some missing screws can always happen, i don't cry about it :)

I have one on pre-order, it worries me when people say its fine but only one out of two diffs they built actually went together properly :confused:

Interesting that the kit shafts are 55mm and the optional replacement TiNi shafts are 52mm.

ADDITIONAL NOTE: I had a problem with one of my rear shocks today. The piston was actually sticking in the cap. Luckily I'd ordered a pair of the shorter TiNi shafts and after fitting these, problem solved.

[QUOTE=andys;567316]Glad it's not just me ! I've Tripple checked everything.

Comparing others today at the track it would seem that the 'flip' situation seems to only exist when using a deep servo like a Savox 1258. For others with shorter servo's the possibility of this becoming a problem was insignificant, or non-existent.
So, it would be useful if Durango could modify the block the servo fits on to, thereby allowing the servo to sit further back. The difference between a binding deeper servo and shorter ones was around 3mm.

Even with the minor problems I had today at Southport (inevitable with any new car), I am very happy with the balance of the 210. We went from wet to dry conditions and all I had to change were the tyres and the consistency followed through.

Oh! I also fitted two of Cream Extreme's battery braces which added 48g to the overall weight and they helped to settle the car down somewhat.

If I would like to run some old pin rims do I need to run the following parts?

#TD712003 - Wheel Distance Bushing
#TD714002 - Wheel Cone

Thanks in advance

What servos are people using as I have the option for:
Savox 1257
Savox 1258
Savox 1251
Orion Low profile

I wouldn't use the 1251 as I haven't seen them last on cars without servo savers. Currently I have fitted a 1257, but not set it up yet as no other electrics have been put into the car.

Intended on selling a few ESCs to get an Orion R10

Oh dear that's what's in mine :(

Just to clarify. I haven't seen them in this car yet, I'm refering to other cars (Cougar SV). I used my 1257 in the SV with no issues.

So it may be ok, but this car hasn't got a servo saver...

Using 1258's in both 2 and 4wd. Used an Orion low profile in the cougar, never had any problems

Orion is in my 511 at present and 1258 will be heading to the other 4WD. My 2nd 1257 is in my XXCR

What TonyM is referring to is the distance that the servo horn sits from the fixing face of the servo lugs is greater on his Savox servo.
His Servo locks out on full lock, but my no name Hong kong servo doesn't, the only difference at the time at looking was the Savox is 2mm taller lugs to spline than mine.

I have noted that Savox servos are "longer" for want of a better description in the past.

So would a simple fix be to just fit a different servo horn? The 210 one has a bit of a "crank" in it that makes the ball sit further forward.

Good idea, ive fitted a dynamite alloy one in mine. Just because i always use alloy servo horns, as i find plastic ones to be a weak point of any car!

They are only £3 too.

1st run issues...

See my post here re the diff failing - happened to 4 people on their first outing at our club day...

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...t=83173&page=2

I fitted an alloy servo horn and bent it back towards the servo. But you can only go back so far without fowling the servo. Yes it's an interim fix, but a real Durango fix would be good.

TonyM has got a good point regarding the servo mounts. AE include spacers to suit all servos on the B4.1 kit, it would be good if Durango followed suit.

I have just swapped my low profile savox (sorry forgot the model number) for a savox 1258 for more strength because of the lack of servo saver.

With it fitted, the steering link turnbuckle is totally straight/90 degrees onto the bell crank. If you move the wheels left and right smoothly there does not appear to be a problem, but do it quickly then I have found the link pops off the ball joint. Don't know about while in racing, but could be a big issue.

I have 2 cars, so 2 diffs. I built both, and I have the same issue, spring seems too long...

I have cut 1,5mm of the spring to solve the issue... I hop that it will not have too much consequences...

When will the gear diff be available ? I run a gear diff in the TLR22 for months, without any issue (whereas it is gear diff of SC10 RTR...)

Shock shaft are 55mm, optional shock shaft are 52mm and stock shock shaft from the small bores are 52mm...

Are the 55mm ok ? Or should I go with the 52mm ones ?

IMO marco go with the 52 mm shafts, that way you know that they will match the fronts, i.e the piston will not protrude, past the damper body. Like TonyM said, his stuck in the cap.

Thanks :)

Sorry Mikey. Been moving house over the weekend so a bit busy lol. Still managed to spray the wing with cans and sticker it up. The rest of the shell will be done by someone with more skill haha

here's my servo flipped. I don't seem to have any problem with the arm locking out or going past the safe point... I even tried forcing it to do this and it's not sticking :confused:

http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/a...C/IMG_0434.jpg

I'm not truly confident on the strength of the steering rack either. It's ideal to get made up in carbon or alloy though. Rear tower also looks easy enough to get made up in carbon fibre too. Front would have to swap to the horizontal ball links like the 410 if you had a CF front tower, but it would give you a much quicker adjustment on the ball stud height :)

I've found the problem with my first diff. The moulded plastic around the nut should have a hole to let the screw through.
When i tightened the screw until it got tight i thought i had compressed the spring, but the hole was way to small. That's why i thought it was all tightened down, but it wasn't.
Forced the screw through, and problem's gone :)

Iv'e read some posts about failing diffs, you all should check if you really have totally compressed the spring, this part can fool you.

For the people that notice the servo arm going beyond the 'safe' point and 'locking' over...

this is only a problem on the bench when you are turning the wheels to drive the servo. when the car is in use, the opposite happens, the servo arm is the thing that is directly controlled. the servo arm doesn't get forced past the safe point because the arm is directly controlled, even if you do have your EPA's set way off, it will still pull back no problem.

and even so, this is only a problem on the bench with some types of servo that have lots of momentum on the gears.

How do you know it's only a problem on the bench?

What if the front wheels get a hard knock pushing them past the safe zone into a locked position? Also, when the links go past neutral the servo has no control over the flapping about of the wheels.

Tony, I'm talking about the way the servo arm and steering rack interact here.

I'm not talking about the way the steering rack controls the steering knucles

OK thanks Chris. I think it is the latter where the problem lies.

got mine together, apart from the diff, everything went ok. To be honest though im very worried how its going to run first time out!!
has anyone ran stock piston? what oils did you use? ive put losi oil in 37.5 ft and 30w rear and it feels very stiff

Yes, I can see what you mean.

none of the cars that I have built have a problem with the front knuckles locking over, I'm keen to know more details about exactly how people have built their front caster blocks and spacers of the people that are seeing this issue.

Thanks
Chris

there is a miss-print in the manual for the front and rear pistons, it is corrected in the online version at the TD website.

using box stock components, start with 1.2mm pistons front and 1.3mm pistons rear. 450cst shock oil in the front and 400cst shock oil in the rear.

you can go up and down on shock oils.

this may not be a 'perfect' setup buts its pretty good using complete kit items before going into drilling pistons and advanced setup stuff.

fully dialled setups can be found on the TD website

Just to back up CD here, Richard Coates ran with the kit pistons as suggested above, AE35wt front, AE 30wt rear at York on Saturday night and the car was fine. We were all playing with set up but the pistons/oil were not touched on any of the three 210's we had running.

G

I did a comparison between mine and Simon Larkin's and we had exactly the same set up, middle Ackerman, longest wheel base, fully trailing etc. The difference in the potential for locking between the two was quite marked and all we could see was that my Savox was just that bit forward of his servo. Once I'd put on an Alu horn and bent it backwards a little it seemed to help relieve the problem, but still not as good as Simon's.

I went with 45wt front 35wt rear (Fastrax CML oil) and the front feels really nice, but the rear does seem a little over damped...

I'll play with it on the night :)

See this is the thing that puzzles me and I am trying to understand.

the servo, servo arm, servo link length etc shouldn't have ANY effect on the 'locking' of the steering knuckles.

the only thing that should affect this is the steering rack and the steering knuckles.

the problem should be evident without any servo fitted, so it puzzles me that changing the servo arm has an effect on this...

Thanks mate,so basically rear and front are other way round in the manual?

I find it puzzling as well and yet it was the only thing we could see that was different between the two cars.

I'm sure CD is looking into it ;)

if you're running more toe out the steering rack will be 'allowed' to move further before the knuckle hits the C bracket restricting any further steering...

as chris said this can't happen from the servo moving only in the result of a crash would it be forced beyond the limit

Hi Chris, mine and Tony's car where the same front set up at the time of looking at the locking problem/puzzle, the difference was the height of the servo, this pushed the cranked horn forward, this then made the angle of the small link that goes from the servo horn the the ackerman plate not straight enough to operate correctly.

Wheel offset in the front? looking to use some old rims? any idea if the front rims are rims?