WTF, trailing axles? :thumbdown:

As stated NEUTRAL, EASY TO DRIVE...... you didn't actually think I myself would use such a setup in racing conditions :eh?:.... you silly boy.....

I of course was using GT2 casterblocks and inlines and all the other stuff that makes a car nearly impossible to drive:thumbsup:. Didn't want to bother "normal drivers" with this insanity



( http://www.one-ten-rcforums.com/2wdr...pid=2834#p2834 )

What angle does using the GT2 blocks give, if i could make mine steer like an animal but keep the rear end locked in and went faster than everyone else lap after lap and didnt make a mistake, i might win :lol:

hey Janus, can you tell us a little more about those GT2 blocks? I always found the X-6 steering a little dead on astro and indoors (gym floor) at low speeds, although it's perfect for dirt tracks.

Edit: Lee-Mag beat me.

GT2 casterblocks are availible in 25 and 30 deg (just like the normal ones) but you get an extra hole so you can run a 2-C front camberlink

Did anyone try inlines? The X-6 (or S2) being so stable, it might be possible to handle? You can never ever have too much steering! :thumbsup:

How much is the caster normally on a 4WD? And why the f... don't we ever play around with that???

Go Lee-Mag!!! :lol:

Inlines: http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost...&postcount=122 -> yes have been tried, I like it, rest of mankind somehow doesn't

4wd dont need much caster because its 4wd. They have, what, somewhere around 12 deg or something. If you did that to a 2wd it would loose all of its reaction speed.

Janus,

What is your full setup?

I have been thinking of playing with inlines, i like a super sharp car but with stability too. I cant do the point and shoot style, i need to carry corner speed. :cry:

Well, you asked for it :rolleyes::wtf:

Why don't 4WDs need as much caster?

I feel that when coasting I'd really like to have a lot more steering with my 4WD...

R-O-R piston???

4WD aren't made for coasting. Even with a one-way, you have to hammer it all the way. Stupid as it sounds, drive it harder and it will feel better...

I think he means Red-Orange-Red, so a Red piston with one hole drilled to the size of the orange piston holes.

@ Janus: are you driving in Arendonk?

R O R is just the 566 piston red hole orange hole red hole. :thumbsup:

I think the caster thing is due to them having more weight up front, cars are also built so joe bloggs can drive them and not for the elite few.

Well, I'm a novice in OR, but I have a lot of track racing experience. And you for sure do benefit from caster in 4WD track racing. So I just don't see why it can't be the same for 4WD OR...

And in some corners you HAVE to coast :D

That's only because you haven't hit the brakes and swung it round hard enough at the beginning of the corner :p

How is married life? Congratulations by the way :thumbsup:

Thx! It's great! :wub

Now you're being oldfashioned! :p These days you don't hit the brakes, you just steer and let tyre friction do the job (not always of course)... it's more consistent and gives better laptimes!

If you brake hard you'll be more or less standing still at some point = slower than always being on the move

SHY, when you watch all the top boys they all use the brakes, a lot will even use a diff up front so they can use the brakes. Granted they still carry a lot of corner speed but it just means they can go faster for longer coming into a corner.

I didn't mean throw an anchor :D
Just unsettle the car enough to swing the back end round and then hit the gas and let the oneway pull you through the corner. Only works with a oneway and mainly on dirt. Modern 4WD's feel as though the back end was just flopping along as an afterthought anyway...

Multiple European A finalist and Xfactory superstar Tom Cockerill was just saying that.:thumbsup:

He said the back end always feels light;)

Thought i should let you know :thumbsup:

you like a light rear end lee, or something with a bit of weight in it, ?:)

So, what about getting me more 'turn in'? :confused:

On the X-6 that is......

G

Im not fussed carl as long as it does not break away :lol:

Standing the rear shocks up one hole would do it G or going to a red rear spring:thumbsup:

Is that before or after you've had a go??? :wtf:

We shared a room, that was it, i promise :lol::lol:

I'm already stood up one hole on the rear shocks, also middle on the wishbone - i just find that gives it more side bite and a more predictable slide when it does go.

Front end, that I can remember:

Std Oz shocks, std Oz positions
25 degree blocks
Steering arm trailing - spaced middle in castor block
Link: Outer block - Outer tower
1 washer under inner stud

It was ok at Batley, but I was getting raped in the 180 turns along the back section - and there was a lot of them :cry: I really had to chuck it in, almost a scandy flick was required! :lol:

raise the gearbox a touch, i think that will make it rotate a bit more?

what wheelbase?

what do you find the difference is by moving the castor block forward?

Er....gearbox is already raised a bit, maybe 0.75mm I think.

Wheelbase, short - short.

Castor block? :bored:

G

with the castor block thing, my theory is, your taking the weight off the front end by moving the blocks forwards, less steering and turn in, i may have it totally wrong but thats the way the brain is thinking right now.

Long will give you some more steering too . I think im going to give inlines a go though this weekend in one of the practices. That should liven things up a bit :lol:

I'm poor and don't have any inlines :(

G

could go hard core like i did and stick b3 bits on the front

cut the front blocks down , drill out the holes for the king pin and fit a b3 kingpin ball stud with b4 inline axels


you would need to find the b3 bits mind and it took me ages to get some

ran this at cml one winter snaped the chassis and the car was never run again so never got to test it big time but it felt ok

i allways thought the standing the shocks up gave more grip less stability?

More turn in? 30º caster blocks. Why are you using 25º? Are there many sweepers?

Sounds painfull,:lol:

@ Sparrow: Yep Arendonk this weekend, I will be there.

@ Lee: moving the castor block forward (with inline) and running short wheelbase rear, is having a relative long wheelbase with little weight up front so it can still change direction swiftly. Makes the car feel more alive, and it also helps drive comming out of the corners.

@ Kikefu: 25 deg has more steering in the middle and end of the corner, only time I use 30 is if I have trouble getting on the throttle at the end of a corner. Most of the time the higher corner speed you can get by using 25 outweighs the faster reaction you can get from using 30's (even though most of the time the 30's will FEEL faster).

Doesn't the steering mess up on the bottom of the arm then?

Just applied for my Belgian federation license :thumbsup: See you at the weekend.

Dont use a nut at the bottom of the steering block, and use a bit of droop limiting to stop it hitting the arm when steering.

are you running the front shocks lower mount in outer hole have you tried the inner hole as on b4

I'm a bit confused about these trailing axles and inline axles.

I"ve seen several setup's from Ellis and he never uses inline axles and seems like he's driving the X6 pretty well :eh?:

So what is the story here??

right whats the difference now guys going to the squared for shock positions and is the oz set up still about right to start from thanks g

the x6 and x6squared have the same geometry so i would imagine so

Na, not really. See original X-6 shocktower in the rear and and the X-6 Squared one in front.

****