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KYOSHO
(http://www.oople.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=10)
nelly ill be at macc on tues with my sp. you can have a look at my set up, i find it realy nice and nutral to drive, and allows you to push the car hard.
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Cheers Guys |
Paulstar, before you go down the Losi spring route lets try and get you some where close to the right sort of set-up using Kysoho parts, that way you'll be much more able to compare your set-ups with the rest of us.
So here are the questions we need answered 1) Which version of the car do you have? 2) What track surface(s) are you running on mainly? 3) How many jumps and how big? 4) Do you like understeer, oversteer or neutral handling? 5) What other equipment are you using (particularly motor and battery types)? 6) How experienced a driver are you? If you can answer all those we should be able to point you in the right direction, the last couple of % can only come from your own fine tuning but we should be able to advise if you word your questions something like "I require more corner exit steering" or similar. Look forward to trying to help. |
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ok here we go -I have the KMC version of the kit. -The surface is now going to be short grass, with dusty patches -They have built a new track so not sure on how many just. But I know there is a large table top there. (I'll get more info) -At the moment I have cell saddle packs. and i'm running a 19 turn motor -I used to race a lot. Back in the days of the B2. I'm just getting back into the sport and i'll be looking to race at least once a month. Spare time being the major factor. -Neutral steer I would prefer. But being a big lover of MK2 escorts I like oversteer lol. If you can make my car handle like that i'll pay you. (hehe) Cheers |
Unfortuantely I can't comment further now but I will.
Most imprtantly loose the KMC chassis .... it doesn't work, not at all IMHO. I know a few people who've tried it and all have gone slower than on the stock layout. Weight is in the wrong place, it's too stiff and makes the car much harder to drive! |
ok. Anyone got a stock chassis for sale??
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Tyres
Hi All
Have a question about tyres, i race outside on astroturf and when it is dry the grip is very good. To the point i have been using nearly bald green mini spikes all round to avoid grip roll, however i feel like i loose out on a bit of performance as it stuggles to put the power down in a straight line. If i put new tyres on, it grip roles quite badly. Any suggestions? Thanks Dave |
dibble, post your set-up on here.
Depending on the type of astro used it'll be either Balistic Buggy green mini spikes or Schumacher Yellow minispikes (sometimes Green but I normally prefer the BB greens in those conditions). If you show us your set-up and describe the handling problem in a little bit of detail (fast / slow corners worse etc.) I'll do my best to help. Also what version of the car do you have? I always found the ZX5-SP to be wonderful on astro and the current ZX5-FS looks like being even better! |
Hi Roger
I have the following Standard zx5 with losi 4.5 brushless NIMH Centre one way Orange front springs (55 i think) Light Yellow rear springs (65 i think) 30 wt oil front and back Front Shocks connected to outside whole at the top and inside at the bottom 7 degree hubs Rear Shocks connected to Middle at top and inside at bottom It seems worse at change of direction at slow/medium speed I can get schumacher tryes a bit cheaper so would like to stick with that brand if possible I have tried new rears and worn fronts which is better, but still rolling a bit Thanks in advance Dave |
I'm no standard ZX5 specialist but I'd say right away you're running your front end way too soft. I'd try the kit silver springs on the front and the middle hole on the wishbones to start with.
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Hi i have another (backup) ZX5 with silver springs and it bounces quite badly as the track is quite bumpy. Do you still think i should try it?
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Well I just had a look for a setup for you,
Have a look at this setup: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...rd20060115.htm |
Thanks, i note they cut the outside row off the rear tyres too. Worth a go i reckon, can't see what kind if track this is for though
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It's an astroturf setup.
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Softest spring I have ever run on the front of a ZX5 is a #65 yellow with 1.5 coils cut off!!!
My stock set-ups are always on #70 silvers. I'll have aproper look at your setup but I agree with Fab, far too soft!!! I'll try to get back to you tomorrow but I never ran the stock car so will be asking around ..... niggs98 on here is the man to ask about the earlier car. |
Thanks Roger, look forward to hearing from you. I think i am at the stage now where my driving is good enough for the setup to mate a difference:). Will be sad to see the orange springs go as i love the way it leans into corners;)
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Please setup for carpet.
Only 2 jumps at the track and thats all. And i have SP |
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Any carpet setup more?
I dont have asso pistons. |
Now bought myself a FS conversion and need a setup.
It's carpet/slash ash 50/50. Lot's of jumps, but not very bumpy. EDIT: And lipos all day long. |
Okey, lets try once more.
Half a carpet, half a somekinda ash. LowToMid grip. Lots of jumps but not very bumpy (in the morning :D) Only lipos so light weight. |
Hi,
Im not a team driver but i can tell you. As per kit but:- Go up to 400wt shock oil. Stiffer anti roll bar I use the copper one on rear. lay the shocks down one hole from the kit. Oh and try both of the hubs you get in the kit the ones you have spare make the car a little easier to drive but at the expense of turn in. try That and let us know!! |
Do you have an e-mail address at all? I'll send you a couple of set-ups to try for the FS, these days I have the car so nice that I barely change a thing track to track or surface to surface!
One thing though, put some weight back in ... at least 60g down the spine between the batteries as that will help calm the car over the bumps and balance a bit on long jumps. |
Sent you a pm.
Thanks dude. |
Hi,
Is somebody know why in a recent french race many ZX5 FS competitors didn't have the rear shocks infront of the rear tower ? :confused: http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/sho...t=37234&page=8 thanks. |
Hi, I made that race with a FS.
the best french FS driver (Héligoin) setup the car this way, so most of FS owners (including me :D) took that route. I don't have tried yet the FS with the shocks on the usual side (it was my first race with it) but I used that trick several times on my B44. Having the shocks behind the rear wheels really helps with handling on rough tracks. The rear stays planted on ruts and slippy parts, to the point that the car can become a bit understeery. Try it, it really works. |
Thanks for this answer. Perhaps, I saw you because, even if I did not participate, i saw some runs. I'll try this setup when i'll drive in such conditions.
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test
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Just out of interest, has anyone ever *needed* to change the steering servo from stock on the ZX-5 as I bought one the other day and it sometimes struggles to go from full left lock to full right and ends up just going in a straight line?
The only thing I can think thats causing this is that the servo is a bit on the weak side and can't turn that quickly/much? |
ZX5-FS2 setup help on carpet
right guys, I need a starting point for the FS2 on carpet as I am getting more and more lost .... not something I am used to.
I am finding that; 1) as soon as I lift off the power the rear end wants to rotate ... not a little to the point I am going through the middle of most corners on opposite lock. 2) it is killing rear tires like they are going out of fashion. Now I know there are quite a few of you folks who run this chassis on carpet and I really, really wasn't expecting it to be hugely different to the FS so I am lost as I say. Anybody else find this or is it something strange in my chassis? I've tried decreasing anti-squat and toe in, running a little extra camber and running the longest possible camber link (also tried the low height inner ball stud and 3mm under the outer end) ... nothing seems to be taming the rear of the car .... an anti roll bar turns it into a spinning top! Right now the Scorpion is MUCH quicker around a given lap than the FS2 and the RB5 is also quicker (although not as much so as Scorpion). I think that I have lost something like 1s a lap in the FS2 rear end. Very very confused! Damping range has been from 3b 30 down to 20 and 3a 35 down to 20. Tried 3x1.3 and 3x1.4 pistons in similar oil ranges too and the big bores! Springs from my usual #68 blue to #60 dark yellow and all in between. Just to make sure that it wasn't a tweaked chassis I put the original FS rear end back on ... back to it's normal predictable and stable self!!! Any help appreciated .... at the moment I am considering the most likely cause is that I am just too old to drive such a lively car and it's me not the FS2 at fault but before I get out the walking stick I am hoping somebody can pin point it for me! I know Nick Caro says he is "always on it" with his FS2 but I'm more of a lift and coast driver than a power-brake-power driver ... as I say, maybe that is the problem! |
Roger.. You have an email mate..which may help ;)
As for your issues with the car mate... i know you say the car is fine with FS rear end on... but have you checked your diffs and slipper setting?? If this aint right, it can be as you describe... if you remember i went through all this with mine. Have you tried the different shims under Law36 and Law37?? Ride height makes a big difference also... On mine with standard velvets i was 40wt 3b front and either 25wt 3B or 30wt 3A rear.. FS to FS2 to me just makes the rear end rotate much easier and in doing so makes the car much more nimble... Yesterday at Broxtowe running Big Bores Front 45wt Yellow Spring, inside hole tower, middle wishbone.. Rear 35wt white spring, middle tower,inside wishbone.. ride height 21mm approx all round, long wheelbase, shortest link on the ally 0deg hubs.. inside link on tower, LAW40 chassis stiffner.. The car felt better than ever... effortlessly turning on the tight and twisty track, with out the need of having to use abit of handbrake etc.. As youve not run much 4wd recently, it maybe that you just need more time behind the wheel mate! :thumbsup: |
Hey rog, i know exactly what you're saying, I've had this issue with the fs until I made my ally chassis. Was a good 1s per lap slower than with the rb5. Now I've switched to a proper handling 4wd I'm 1s a lap faster than 2wd...
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roger have you tried making some changes to the front of the car,id shorten the rear links again as when you use long links on the rear,the rear rolls way to much and lifts the inside front wheel in corners and it becomes a bit unpredictable.Id try maybe washers under the inside ball stud on the camber link to reduce turn in and maybe 75 rate front springs,this minght suit you and stop whiping the rear end round and get a bit of understeer back for you.also you could try putting your front shocks out at the botton,hope this helps matt
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Cheers guys for the suggestions but saddly they have all been covered :(
Nick, you saw the diffs at Broxtowe, they are like silk mate and the slipper is letting go when it needs to. I am running the LAW36 on the chassis and currently having to run just about zero antisquat to be able to drive the thing at all (makes me nervious as to what it would be like if th heavens opened). Matt, I'd like to run a shorter rear link to get more square up but none of that matters if the car is facing the wrong way .... it is litterally that bad! I am running a #75 front spring on carpet anyway ... always have. Currently 2mm under front inner ball to help calm it and all the other front end settings are subdued too. It is definitely the rear as even when just coasting through a corner the rear is breaking away ... in fact that is when it is worst. Also the fact it is killing rear tires tells me it's not working them well at all, the fronts are lasting as long as ever. I am trying to use the roll to generate some grip from the rear, yes that is a big compromise but it is all I had left to try! I think I am building the answer I need here .... those of you guys who are happy with the car are very happy ... those who aren't are struggling a lot. I REALLY liked the FS, always suited me I though but I think the FS2 might be a step too far for those of us who like a planted car (that said I've just thought about droppign some extra weight under the cells .... cogs are turning). I'm going to start playing tunes with the rear end combinations to see what I can achieve as and when I get chance, wrong time to be working away for 3 weeks hey :( |
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Notice it most when coasting through a section of the corner, the more it shrugs of speed the worse it gets. I've never come across anything like it in 25 years of racing 4wd buggies! |
I guess the FS2 is designed more for those low and mid grip tracks, and super smooth clay like they have in Japan and the states, where a little more rotation is required. The friont end just does not have enough traction to 'pull' the car around the corners like we have in this country from high grip carpet, AND pins. The minispikes will slow down reaction and response of the front end on carpet, so should help your situation Rog. Or just stick with the FS! :lol:
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roger im running no weight at all and the chassis stiffener i suggested this to nick after trying it and he loves it to,how much weight are you useing maybe to much and youd get the pendulum effect so the rears trying to over take the front?
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Roger i would try putting bit more weight over the rear. I have been suffering from tire wear on the rear loads but the car is flying at the moment though handling wise very happy with the car.
I was running 85g on the rear i have just put 60g in the rear to see the difference hope it wont destroy my setup to much as i have always been pretty close to setup as to Nic most tracks. But i have always been carrying little more weight not just in the car too lol :p |
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