Thank you Wolvie. I will fit the other two shims to the differential and give it a try.

Piccy of a 40mm fan mount I made for mine. 40mm is probably overkill so printed a 30mm mount too - but had this fan spare and it 'just' fits - so why not :)

my guess is you dont have the steel washer on and you have an alloy one, the only way the captive joints bind is the wrong washer or ill fitting one

team found fitting two between each bearing and diff on each side gave a far better result, pretty sure there is an update in the kits

It's definitely the right washer
but to be fair the binding is happening below the length of a shock length so it's no real issue if that makes sense

ah ok if your going past the pivot point of the ball that will explain it, it will free up a little during use too

The two shims either side of the differential worked and took out the excess play, all good. I must admit I did not see the message on the bag as I was to eager to open the packet and complete the transmission.
The build of the car has gone really well but I have had two components where the screws did not show any resistance when being tightened into the plastic and once the screw had reached its limit the screw would just turn. I am really careful not to overstress any component by overtightening but on these two parts the screw would turn quite freely without applying any pressure on the hex driver. Has anyone else had any similar issues?

What parts were they?

I got the front lower wing for the laydown is there a mount for it?


Found the mount now

The two parts I had issues with where U7636 which is a small plate which sits behind the rear of the transmission. The one turnbuckle ball joint just would not secure and the other part was U7046 which is just a battery post. Apart from this the build was excellent. Just installing the electrics now :thumbsup:

Just a quick question. How much of the body shell do you remove to clear the slipper clutch spring? The cut lines on the shell look different to what the manual is instructing. If anyone has a pic of there body shell I can use for guidance that would be appreciated.

Went a bit nuts with mine so i could get to the slipper with the shell on.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/...080&fit=bounds

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/...080&fit=bounds

the body as of yet does not have cut lines for the ld, its the same body as the kc

personally i have cut nothing for the dlipper area and have zero rub marks, the body is one and off with velcro so slipper on mine is set then body fitted.

Thanks for the pictures and the advice regarding the body shell. I was getting a bit confused with the cut lines not in sync with the manual.
One last question, what gear ratio would you recommend using a 8.5t motor and the kit spur gear? I currently have a 22t pinion fitted.

I'm usually 21 or 22 pinion on kit spur and 7.5t motor. just depends what acceleration/top end you want. Also effects temps and track type will play apart. I would say you are in the right area.

I have just noticed that the diff height eccentric bearing housing in my car is actually moving up and down and left too right in the gearbox on my car. Only on one side but there is movement. I checked all my gearbox bolts were tight and there was nothing in terms of excess mould material causing it and there isn't. I am concerned because movement there means the mesh between the diff and the idler won't be true and consistent. Anyone experienced this ?

you need to fit the two shims between the bearing and diff ( two per side) i think it says on the ladle on the bag with the shims in it

I have done so. I am not referring to movement there. The issue is the diff bearing housing that is used to adjust the diff height is not a tight fit in the gearbox. It looks like a moulding issue.

try it with the other eccentrics to see if you have the same problem. might give you some idea to which part is not right

the team found the same issue, thats why the update and extra shims are provided to be fitted between the bearing and diff, it pushes the bearings into the height adjusters into the casings., on mine it fixed it and others i have seen. its the movment your describing.

(step 29 2 shims each side of diff not the 1 each side as manual)

I also noticed movement with the lowest diff setting, put the middle ones in and they seem fine

Tried it with the other eccentrics and it's still the same. It's much worse on one side. You can actually turn the eccentric a little. That's how much movement there is. As I said, one side is moving but only slightly but the other is considerable. It can only really be a moulding issue really. I will add that I have been racing for many many years now and I have built and raced many cars at a respectable level so I can assure you it's not a newbie mistake or build error.

faulty gearbox mould or wrong eccentrics then. either way i guess its a replacement kit or parts required.


edit - as a thought have you tried it with the 2nd diff top section (if there is 1 i.e. rear shock parts bag), just to see if it is any better and narrow down the faulty bit.

Hi folks, new here.

I've built two Laydowns now. I eliminated the slop between the eccentrics and gear housing using using a layer of cellotape around the eccentric, actually it took two layers to make it rock solid but we're still talking small fractions of a mm, depending on how thin your cellotape is.

Overall the car builds very well and doesn't have many foibles to problem solve. I'm pleased with the quality of it overall having not built a Schumacher before.


On another topic, dang it has a lot of chassis flex (intentionally), it surprised me, although I can see how nice and even the flex is throughout the chassis I may look to try the X-brace. I haven't run the car yet with the standard flex yet so can't comment.

I did notice how well the car was handling that flat landing at Arena33 last weekend, I know in the earlier rounds it was the KD we were seeing, up to leg 2 final in Michael's case. How relevant chassis flex and S2 towers (G10 let's be honest) are to that I don't know.

Sellotape!

Cant see that it is going to solve the problem long term tho

Just been looking at all the speed secret parts on offer to upgrade the standard Laydown kit. The alloy parts do look good, which speed secret parts are the most beneficial?

Are the Ali hubs and carriers a must on the laydown, or just a nice to have ?

Thanks

defiantly the caster blocks are worth adding. low front wing mount is a nice tuning option too.

I would also say the alloy ctr is worth it as broken a few of the plastic ones over time.

Thanks guys :D

Thank you for the info guys, very much appriciated. I think i will see how the car performs and if a part does break and there is an option to upgrade to an alloy equivalent, then i will probably fit the alloy option.

A quick update here on the gearbox issue I posted on here. I contacted Schumacher and explained the issue and sent them a small video clip of the problem. The r and d guys at Schumacher have seen the clip and sent out some replacement parts to try to resolve the issue. As previously stated that the play in my gearbox was more than just a little and the person I spoke to agreed that it wasn't right.
In my view Schumacher listened to what I had to say, took the issue seriously and have tried to rectify it. At the moment I can't really as for more than that. Thanks Schumacher.

Further update. Just tried the diff eccentrics off the cougar KC. They appear to be a harder plastic so I thought I would try them. They fit perfectly and eliminate all play and have sorted the problem. I'll have to let Schumacher know I have sorted it and send the parts back. Happy days

You can’t beat Schumacher for their customer service

Schumachers customer service as always been second to none.

Nice one :D

Ive just finished building a second one and noticed the play. Once the top was screwed down it was minimal A small amount of tape :woot: on top of the eccentric and it was fixed.

I think I'll be buying the KC ones :thumbsup::thumbsup:

At which page of the manual are you are referring to please?

You will find the eccentrics in the manual in Step 29 on page 18. The tape would have to be added to the eccentrics when you do step 32 on page 20. HTH

Hi,
As above for the step number.

It’s not as bad as it sounds. I cut a small piece of electrical tape around 4/5mm wide and the length of the top half of the eccentric. Try 1 piece first, fit the shock mount, see if the movement has gone. Repeat if required.

I also fitted all 3 small shims between the diff outdrive and the diff case.

To be fair I think mine was just one of those things. I had a small amount of movement on the one side but a considerable amount on the other. Schumacher agreed it was too much movement and acted appropriately to sort my issue. I managed to sort it with KC parts and have notified Schumacher. As before stated by others, their customer service is as good as it gets.