I filled mine with 3k during the build.

The action feels a little notchy, but I'm sure this will smooth out after a few races.

3k in the 210 diff feels really tight(?) compared to 3k in a 410 diff...

I found the same when building the diff with 3k. The lowest I have ever went on the 410 for 5k in the rear. But I have to say after a couple of runs, the gear diff felt fairly smooth.

Although after last nights testing, I'm not sure where to go next with the setup. I think 3k is probably about right and I feel that I might have to redo my shocks. I'll need to look at some setup sheets.

Mr Doughty was using 7000 in his at Worksop I think and it looked amazing!

When I spoke to Chris he was running 7kcst but by the end of the meeting he was on 5kcst apparently.

Built my gear diff last night just not sure if I over filled it as around the main seal if the casing there is a little assess coming out or will this just fade off?

Fill to just the top of the cross pins as then there is room left for the sun gear after that. The excess you are seeing will just be the little extra that has come out as you have put the last side on.

Has anyone experienced the gearbox binding with the gear diff? When i assemble it, it turns really heavy.
I've measured the diff gears, and the new one is slightly bigger, will it wear down? This wasn't the case when the ball diff was new.

3 gear setup

Hi Yes i have the same problem assembled as 4 gear i think it's the acual geared diff gear. Hoping Adam is at Worksop tomorrow to show him.

Hmm, not good :( I want to practice with the gear diff tomorrow for next weekends race.
Hope I don't ruin the bearings :cry:

If you meet Adam tomorrow let us know ASAP what he says about it :) Must be a moulding problem?!

Mine does the same so i have put the ball diff back in until it's resolved.
tried new gearbox casing and idler gears as well just to rule it out.

I spoke to the guy's at MB Models and they suggested to loosen the screws as they could be compressing the gear out of shape, did this but no difference.

Yes please do show him as this is a problem that needs to be resolved very quickly as we all have waited a long time for the diff and the finished item looks good but is a poor fit.

Mine measured .15mm larger in diameter. I was concerned about the tight mesh too and so contacted Durango directly. Chris Doughty was on hand and said that the mesh needs to be tight as there's no slip with the gear diff of course. It felt tight in the hand, but once back in the car didn't feel too bad. He seemed to think it would improve after a few packs. Now it's in the car I'm I inclined to agree.

Tried the same, assembled without the idler gear, and the diff spins freely. It's definitly a faulty diff gear diameter, or wrong shape of the teeth :(

Happy then that I have the arrma idle gear that is a little smaller than the original TD one.

I have the same problem with my gear diff really tight
And very noisey

@ OneKiwi:
Good for you :) But that's not how it should be, TD parts should fit together :eh?:

@ Andrew Twigger:
.15mm larger in diameter is what i measured too. I can feel every teeth when i turn the layshaft by hand, and I have to use force.
If Chris Doughty says it's ok I will drive it like this and see if it loosen up.
I put the motor back in and let it run for some time with the gearbox free. After a minute the ESC and the motor was warm, it's a big resistance, i'm not sure this is ok... :(

Just started a new thread with this issue am just in the process of building my 210 got the geared diff an thought I had built it up wrong so taken it apart it's not the smoothest thing any ideas anyone not sure weather to put the standerd one in what's people options on it anyone run one for a full meeting??

I ought to expand on what Chris said because each case is different. He said once everything is assembled but without the motor meshed against the spur gear, the car should roll a few metres if you push it. If it is tight enough for this not to happen then there is an issue and you should not run the car. As said previously though, how tight the gearbox screws are can affect how free the drivetrain is.

Once assembled, mine would happily roll freely on the floor and so I would expect the initial tightness by hand will reduce once run. If anyone is in doubt then best not to run it in my opinion.

HTH

Right ye loosened my screws slightly so once I get the wheels on will try that probs just to use to my ft b4 smooth as hell lol

I have just built up my gear diff. It has gone into a complete gearbox (so I have the option of gear or ball). Mine is tight, but nowhere as near as tight as any of you guys are complaining. When holding the gear box I can spin the spurgear fairly easily. Just a thought but how have you guys shimed the diff? I put two either side as per the ball diff and noticed that the bearing where quite a tight fit onto the diff and had to push them on quite firmly before they seated properly. Just a thought for you to check that the bearings have pushed on all the way.:thumbsup:

HTH

Scott