All kits have been posted!!! Can't wait to see these cars running. Due to demand I sold my one, so I will have to wait for the next batch which is due to arrive towards the end of the month. So if you want to order a 210 let me know!

Thanks

Matt

I don't remember seeing any and its no a option and there pagehttp:// http://www.team-durango.com/race-cars/dex210/

Personal experience:

Step 2. screwing the arms into the W piece with all those tiny little washer was a fiddley job to say the least. Got there eventually though :)

Step 5, screwing the front of the pods over the steering mounting piece was extremely tight and the holes weren't lined up quite perfectly. I loosened the pods and the W piece so there was a bit of give and everything is now screwed down tight. Also I have to praise the way the servo can be quickly removed! I suffered a lot with stripping horns on the DEX410 and removing the servo can be quite frustrating at the best of times. DEX210 servo removal A star!

Step 6, screwing the ball stud into the tower straight was nearly impossible and always seemed to be at a slight angle. I tapped the threads with a grub screw on a 1.5mm driver which allowed me to get in near enough straight and then popped the ball stud in without a problem.

Step 8 and 10. Adam clarified earlier in this post in regards to which inserts gave which camber settings. Extra info in the manual wouldn't go a miss. 0:47 in the video on the TD website doesn't say 25 degrees is an option to answer Mike's question.

Step 15/16 not so much a problem, but the image is half the size as it covers RM and MM configs so seeing where everything goes requires a closer look.

Should threadloc be included in the kit? I had some from my DEX410 kit either way.

This isn't a bitchy wining post about how TD should have addressed all these things, etc, etc like we've seen before. It's purely my personal experience from building the car last night. I think it's an amazingly throughout out and the level of attention to details is fantastic. I just wish I didn't have to wait a week to run it lol!

Just finished mine and it weighs in at 1637 gr.

One thing I notice is that when the front arm is lifted the steering arm 320124-12 is bending slightly. Compared to the rest of the car it does seem a little flimsy. I guess an alu option will be around the corner.:) Otherwise I'm really happy with the car, the shell gives plenty of room and everything fits in so easilly.

I've pre ordered two battery retainer replacement blocks from Noel at Cream Extreme. They are made from stainless steel and each weigh 24g (£10 each and £18 pair). An easy way to tune in a little weight if needed.

how many are running the std ball diff v the gear diff

considering the gear diff isn't commercially available yet.. most/all of us :D

:woot::thumbsup:

who will be then:p

I've been living in a geared diff world for almost a year now and love it. If the ball diff gives me issues I'll replace it straight away.

I built it with lazy balls and the action is super smooth. my last experience of ceramic balls didn't go too well in my B44 a few years back and the diffs went very notchy and undid themselves. once I put standard balls back in no problem.

I'll see how it goes for now.

I've also built mine with RC Lazy balls. However, I see this as a temporary measure until the geared diff is available, then I'll swap.

Buds Balls have been very popular as well. An excellent choice in my opinion. Hopefully the spares and geared diff will arrive soon!!

Can't wait to get home and build mine or maybe not

the team were running at worksop,i know one ran with gear,swopped to ball,then put the gear back in

My thoughts at this time are ball indoors and gear diff outdoors for winters.

Either way the gear diff oils I have purchase thus far are 750 and 1k

No problem to mount it so far, I am still doing it. Thanks for the explanation for the caster settings, it could have been great to have information in the manual.

I still don't know if I will go rear motor on mid motor. I guess rear motor will be more versatile than the mid motor. What do you think guyz ?

depends on the type of surface you are racing on dirt,astro,carpet.

Most of the tracks are dirt in France, but my training track is an astro one... that's why I had my TLR 22 in mid motor configuration, which was a great car on the grip. On dirt, it was very very difficult to be fast in mid motor...

1st outing for the car indoors tonight box stock apart from the pistons and man it was awesome, very very impressed :thumbsup:

First issue of the build. Ships for the shock/piston don't fit. 709009

They are very tight but if you use the screw and piston it should take it down

They are very tight, they do fit on though, just need a little bit of encouragement