I was told at the weekend that some people do use a thrust bearing and a lock nut.

Now this confused me as a thrust race is used to isolate the diff screw from the relative movement of the two diff halfs ..... on the BJ4WE the outdrives are keyed together so the relative movement is not really there. I think a big improvement would be a shouldered head on the bolt (to increase the frictional area) and a locking washer ...... that may well help stop it coming undone.

Well, that is just it......there is movement between the outdrives!
It is not much, but enough to losen the bolt......

There is a little tolerance inbetween the outdrives, yes. Using "red" threadlock will help prevent the assembly from loosening.

I know I'm pigheaded, bud I still would like to know if anyone has any experience with the thrustbearing.
I think glueing things together isn't the answer.

Thrust bearing? You mean assembling the two washers, with balls and grease in the middle, in place of the single washer? The moving compenents of the slipper dont involve that washer at all, so the thrust assembly would serve no purpose, and it may not even let the bolt reach the t-nut.

Why dont people just build it as the book says:confused:

I have had a couple of goes but still backing off. Car is awesome but slipper is difficult to get right. I have now got some Associated blue threadlock to see if this sorts the problem out.Fingers crossed!

I built mine with red thread lock and all has stayed tight ..... however I would really of appreciated being able to back it off a fraction at the weekend and didn't dare touch it trackside ... in the cold and wet!!!

If it's relative movement that is the problem that should be relatively easy to fix .... leave it with me!!!!

RogerM. Where do you get Red threadlock from? What make? Is this better(stronger) than Blue associated?

I got mine from ScrewFix!!!

The red stuff is meant to be more of a "permanent" bond than blue so yes, it is stronger.

Guys, please stop talking about the threadlock and try the thrustbearing (or two washers, with balls and grease in the middle)

Don't just use the thrust washer, we also tap the metal T nut and then add a grub screw which tightens upto the diff screw, this solves all your problems believe me ;)

Ye it does! I adjusted my slipper on sunday at kiddy for round 4 Roger & didnt even use threadlock when I put it back in :)

The grub screw is the bit Ken left out ..... now I understand!!!!!!

Are you using the standard screw or do you need a slightly longer / shorter one?

4-40 grubs ..... I wonder where I can get them from???? Anybody know a Great Planes stockest near Cheltenham ....???? :D:D

Now where have I put the BJ4???? (seriously ... not seen it in two days .... must have been "tidied".

Sorry, but still nobody told me that they used a thrustbearing in the slipper......and realised that it's crap.
Please answer my question,...... anyone?

hi, while I wait for the parts from Jconcepts Im going to test one center differential, Im bored, yes....I have finished the assembly and I have to test it in the track.

Great!!! Good luck!
I'm curious how you did that.

Me too :eh?:

I'd keep your slipper assembly handy... ;)

Guessing two short side diff halves, a diff rebuild kit and a kimbourgh style spur gear.

It might be interesting, might even help on very rutted tracks.

I tried to build a diff for my BJ with the parts I have (B4, B3, TC3, RC 10 worlds, RC 12LW) and still could not make it work.
The biggest problem was the size of the diff rings in combination with the outdrives
The problem you create by using a diff in the middle is that you don't have a slipper anymore.
So all the power will go thru the diff, which will slip.