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By making my own Saddle Lipo chassis out of the Schumacher stiff chassis, and making a Brass Lipo retaining brace which hold the rear 1/3rd of the cells. My weight bias is now 57% to rear, it was 54% before.
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Would be interested to see some pics Chris
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Myself and Spud31 ran the Sch SWB kit last night indoors at Faversham (polished wood floor) , Rich seemed to like it but I found it very snappy and tail happy to drive, put it back to normal wheel base now.
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stu |
Just a little warning for those using the mod and using extra droop and 3°+ rear toe-in on the CAT : keep an eye on your driveshaft seating in the outdrives. I had mine pop out during our nationals last weekend.
Shimming the driveshafts proved enough to remedie the situation. |
To try and help you guys doing the mod, I found that with the suspention on the rear this gave the car alot more weight transfer, and with the long ball joints on the shocks this made the rear loose on entry into the corner and the front push out the corner, now having gone back to the short the ball joints this has stopped both these problems, hope this helps!
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Now that there are a few of us running the SX at my local low-grip dirt track, we are finally starting to improve the car for Aussie conditions. My car was handling and jumping very well, with the rear shock mod fitted for the first time.
However, I'm still not convinced that its effect is that great, and I believe that the mods greatest grip improvement comes from the sweep of the drive shafts, rather than the ballast difference by having the shocks out the back. I've done a few calculations and discovered that moving the shocks to the back is only moving around 2.5% of the mass back approx 6.7% and moves the wing back only 3.2%. How much this contributes to improving grip is debatable, especially as my own car was never really lacking in grip to start with. The biggest improvement in my car has been the fitting of Tamiya shocks from the 501x, which certainly improved the cars handling over the bumps. Next meeting I will be trying something else, running the shocks at the front of the arm again, but modifying the arms so that the wheelbase is reduced a further 2-3mm from the kit "short" position. This should result in a similar wheelbase and driveshaft sweep compared to reversing the arms, but still allows the shocks to be in their original locations. The next step is to try and get the motor as far back as possible. I'm switching to the 80t spur for the next meeting but it would be better if Schumacher made down to a 75t spur I think, though perhaps it would be difficult to get the right ratios with some of the hotter mod motors. |
Im using a 78tooth Losi spur on mine - for motor position. Any smaller and I can't mesh the pinion.
Im on 78/23 on a 5.5 Speed Passion. I am using the car as standard, I felt the driveshaft angle locked the shocks on power not allowing them to absorb bumps - felt very skitty to me... I tried several ways of doing it, and it was at no point better than the std mounting position. |
Chris - Any mods to fit a on a Losi Spur Gear ?
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Also is that a Tekin RS Pro in the car? |
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I probably should've checked a bit more thoroughly before buying the gear :blush: |
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Ideally, we need layshafts turned down to suit the spur - know anybody with a lathe? Chris |
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stu rand |
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As Mike Williams says, Dave Orbell (son of Mr O Foams) turned some down for a few of us and I still have a spare in my glove box! Not sure of size but I think Dave has done enough to do it from memory!
I am still using the original Schumacher spur gear that I got with the car without issue but have the option of using AE/TL spurs if necessary... |
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