Ok so I've got a atomic carbon rear shock tower and camber link for the Procat. And have been looking round at some old bosscat pics and none of them use the rear anti roll bar.
Was it that the bosscat was a more stable car and didn't need the roll bar ? And with the Bosscam camber link will I still gain from running the rear roll bar or not?

Ok so I managed to get a bit of time to play with the Procat lastnight and thought that I would make a start on the all new rear trans.

I have fitted my new rear wasp/trinity diff with some ceramic balls with new hex washers with alloy out drives and lubed it all up with some B-Fast pro diff lube.
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...ps25jh7gdp.jpg

Now all together with the bosscat slipper I will be useing both the slipper and the rear diff have new thrust races too this time lubed up with B-Fast pro thrust lube.
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psaohx1age.jpg
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psk1a8vgbl.jpg

And to help take the power I also found some high torque rear belts
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psmkuvja2p.jpg

I also got to fit the new 6mm main drive belt
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psywbbehtu.jpg
That should help with the reliability 8)

And managed to fit with a little modification my Atomic Carbon new rear shock tower and rear camber link adjuster ( Thanks Northy )
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2kiem16h.jpg

So here is the new rear end of my cat hopefully a lot stronger than before now with SX3 wing mounts
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psqoj3s176.jpg

I have read in a couple if threads about boiling plastic parts. Can anyone enlighten me of how you do this and is there really that much benefit in doing it?

Towers
 

Can't remember the boiling trick but you should wet and dry the shock tower edges and seal them with super glue to stop them from cracking.

Thanks Chris I'll do that tonight :thumbsup:

I first heard it 25 years ago with associated parts. It seems to make the nylon parts more flexible. And of course, you could ruin your mums second best saucepan by adding Dylan dye into the water when you did it to colour the parts,.

Never heard of it with Schumacher bits tho back in the late 80s. Might be worth trying it with what are now old parts I guess.

I've been using a CAT / Procat hybrid recently with no problems in proving the crash back system still works well, with no broken parts, just occasionally popping a ball joint from a hub in a big crash.

In answer to your anti-roll bar question, I never used one back in the day as rear grip was always needed. I swopped the standard CAT back end for Top Cat bits when the Top Cat came out to remove the RISE bits in effect making a Procat back end and still didn't need the rear bar. Always used the front one though back then, but I've found with current tyres and astro I don't need that either now.

Bri

Thanks bri that's a lot of help about the roll bar but how long are you suppose to boil them for ?

I've got some new parts I thought I could use but thought id have a go at boiling them to see if it is worth doing.

I believe it helps with new components, of a nylon based material and the process of placing the parts in boiling water allows the part to take on some moisture - normalising the parts and potentially making them tougher. You don't need to have them simmering away, just boil the water, drop the parts in and let the whole lot cool down together. 20-30 mins. Parts will be cooled evenly this way.
Parts will absorb moisture from the air in time anyhow, hence it's mainly something you might do to new parts / wheels etc.

Thanks daz I've got some new rear works wishbones and hubs I might chuck in to give it a go anythings worth a try.

Thrust racers were ok when you took them out of the pack then :)

Spot on thanks daz I just cleaned the old grease off and put some new stuff on. :thumbsup:

Just sorted my new freshly boiled Bosscat works rear hubs and wishboans, another top quality purchase from daz75 cheers pal :thumbsup:

http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...pswqrrhf5b.jpg

And used another of Luke's great ideas for the crush spacers

http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8rcgga5i.jpg
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psbjcbhhbm.jpg

Now I just need to start and strip the Procat so I can use my alloy wishbone pivot bracket to fit all the new backend together.

Nylon absorbs moisture, and the more water content in the plastic the tougher the part is. If you dry nylon out thoroughly it does become quite brittle. Boiling does two things, first it makes sure there is as much water as possible in the plastic and secondly it stress relieves the parts.

When the parts are moulded they are cooled quickly so they can be removed from the mould and passed on to the next stage in production. This means the outer parts cool much quicker than the core of the part, which puts stresses into the plastic. By boiling them for a minute or two then letting the parts cool down in the water means the cooling is much slower and removes stresses built up when moulded.

Thanks terry that's more or less what I did I chucked them in the pan still boiling then turned it off and left it to cool. I was going to leave it for half an hour or so but forgot about it so they were in the till it was all cold.

Can anyone here tell me the difference between U1214N the bosscat slipper layshaft and U1414f c2000 layshaft. I have been over bothe the cat and cougar 2000 manuals and they don't use that part number for the layshaft?

Those part numbers are the spares numbers for the standard Bosscat and Cougar 2000 slipper layshaft spares packs. So U1414F includes the T1461 layshaft and the two A401cross pins. The exploded diagram in the middle of the manual lists all the parts by the retail spares number.

Thanks terry again I've just looked through the manual a bit closer and I've just found it :thumbsup:

If you turn the shaft down a thou then the modern sx3 thrust races fit nicely and are much more reliable

I have been looking at the newer thrust races on eBay. I've got a sx3 in the shed that I've been toying with the idea of pulling apart and seeing what fits.

I'm using the sx3 steering arms which are ballraced ( just cut the outer holes off) together with a sx3 link ( carbon one)

I'm also using the sx3 lipo trays

Funny you should say that I modified these this morning
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psncj3oxsl.jpg