They shouldn't be tight, but not slack either, they should just about slip in, so when your o-rings are old and swollen, they don't sit in the bore correctly, if they are a dense o-ring, they will pinch the shock shaft and impede movement, if they are soft o-rings, they won't seay correctly and leak.

As for shock building, my Schumacher and Tamiya shocks only ever get built finger tight, as Jimmy says, and they only leak when something is worn. If you have cranked on them like a Gorilla on Speed, damage is already done to the seals and the moulded plastic threads.

I really don't think the 210 deserves all this bad press, Mine is from the first batch and has performed really well week in week out ever since.


The few problems I've had have been sorted by Durango quickly and free of charge!

One was the gear diff, I sent this back direct to Durango and they upgraded the parts, rebuilt it for me and sent back a diff ready to fit into my car and even filled with the oil of my choice!!


The layshaft spacer also crushed on mine, but again a quick photo, emailed off to Adam and a new one arrived in the post the next day.

Infact the Durango staff are brilliant, I have had a few phone calls with them chatting about the car and set ups etc always willing to try and help no matter what :thumbsup:

If your having problems, give them a call... you may be pleasantly surprised!


If I was able to offer any advice for the update model if and when it comes out my biggest recommendations would be to look at :

the wheels - these don't stay round for very long

The rear hub clearance - I have found these clog when running on grass and cause binding

Rear shock tower - this has proved to be too weak

In conclusion...

I don't think there are any more issues with the 210 than any other 2wd, its just a matter of learning the car and modifying it to suit yourself. It is a race car and I think it should be tinkered with to make improvements... that's how you get an edge over your rivals!

i cant believe all the negativity , ive a 210 from the first batch and had no problems with it . the ball diff is still running fine and not been rebuilt since i pruchased the car , my friend now runs it as i changed to the gear diff because he had problems . caps were fine only upgraded to alloy red 1s as i had the old 410 shocks lyin around .also turnbuckle plastics have been fine too . the only thing i was breakin was the steering link and rear tower but thats just me crashing.

i love all the team durango products and will continue buying and racing them. :thumbsup:

keep up the good work td :thumbsup:

The car as a whole is solid, upgraded rear shock tower as saw a few break prior to me getting mine and had issues with ball diff so got a spare one and modded the spacer problem solved!
The main issue with this car is the operator but that would be the same whoever the manufacturer was!

So, to summarise:

The OP bemoaned the lower spec of the 210 compared to the 410, and the errors in the instruction manual.

Adam explained why this was so and apologised about the manual.

The rest seems to be talking about a range of build problems.

Yes? :)

Just don't get me started on the quality of the bearings in my 2010 spec full-fat 410....

I just want to add that I called Durango uk about my missing thrust bearing and other small issues I was having. They were very helpful and sent me replacement parts without charge.

Solved the leaking shock issue, use Tamiya ones. The ones TD supply are useless, they seem different the the ones in my small bore 410 shocks that don't leak.

As for the sloppy ballcups it looks like I'll be going down the HPI balls and rigid Losi cup route again!

Really tho????

Different orings no leaks and kit orings with oil weeping from them tells me the kit orings are very poor.

The kit ones seem very soft compared to the 2010 410 ones. People can say whatever they want but I've had both to bits alongside eachother and its a fact.

My wording was crap in my post, I meant the shock end orings were rubbish not the shocks themselves.