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if you tap the holes, then it isn't so bad, use the AW grease too.... buy some cap head 12mm screws for the suspension holders though, it makes it far easier to remove after.
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Have these DB01 options been posted yet?
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Not seen photos of them yet no. nice one. Are any of these actually out yet? What's that blue alloy square thing? Ah ok, I see it now, it's a cover for underneath the motor with the new cutout... hmm.
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not to sure what that metal plate will acheive unless it is directly attatched to the motor mount.... then it could be a funky heatsink.....
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I think it must do otherwise it would be a bit MAD. I guess you can still use this new chassis without it tho? and get more cooling
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This is Tamiya, so who knows :woot: but I guess in dusty track, or wet tracks, it means you get cooling AND sealed chassis still...
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I'll wager the fifth hole attaches to the bottom of the motor mount and the other four holes secure in place on the chassis.
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The blue aluminum square thing is in fact a motor heat sink. The problem is that the only way to use the new carbon reinforced lower deck is with that heat sink as there is no other option to fill that large hole. Luckily the heat sink is only about $10USD at full MSRP through Tamiya. Should be about $7USD in the stores. The nicest pieces are the suspension mounts in aluminum like you have so many problems with in step 1 of the manual. They are definately a nice piece!
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Hey Andrew, any idea when these parts are in the shops? Just busy with 2 review cars on the go, but still managed to build my new Durga this weekend - got a few new bits like the carbon upper decks on order but I'd like to get the carbon chassis and maybe the centre one way if I can find them
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if the Carbon chassis is lighter, and the carbon parts lighter... I may have to flex some spending money lol
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Hey Jimmy, stateside they should be out about the middle to end of June. We still don't have our samples in, but I know when the guys went to the Shizuoka hobby show a couple weeks ago, they got to talk to the designer and see the parts and all came back really floored with how nice they are. I might be a little biased obviously, but I always think the blue anodized stuff looks good on the kits!
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are they the same performance upgrade like the Carbon plastics parts on the TA05? and if so, any news on whether the chassis is flat and not tweaked like the carbon plastic TA05 tub?
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im about to do my shocks
what would you guys recomend?? light oil at the front and heavy on the back? or the other way round? heavy on the front and light on the back? i just dont want this thing to bottom out or nose dive |
Are these the kit shocks? heavy as you can find all round :lol: Usually you'd want heavier in the front but these shocks are a bit random, and actually different diameters. You could try the hardest piston in the front (single hole?) and the middle (double hole??) in the rear as well.
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yes these are kit shocks on second tought i might just use my alu shock that came with my dt02ms and swap it with the durga kit shocks
what do you guys think? |
run the kit oil with the kit springs and pistons, they won't be that bad actually....
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I have all of the current carbon parts on my person one and they seem to all be very good. The only issue I had was that Tamiya Inc. did not decide to take the time to fix the mold for the suspension blocks so that the holes didn't need to be tapped. Oh well, that's what the aluminum ones are for!!! |
almost finish buildng my kit
its a bit of pain building this kit because of the screw anyway thanks jimmy and dcm regarding the advice on the shocks |
I prefer the aluminium ones, they are far stronger
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Well I managed to get out with my Durga this pasted weekend with a 6th overall finish in the A-main :thumbsup:. I'm super happy since the car is pretty much stock other than the slipper and TRF501x shocks. The funny thing is that the car was only fitted with a 10.5 Orion (grossly under-powered compared to the 6.5's in the group). The car turned and jumped so smoothly I had many of the other drivers scratching there head's "DURGA?? 10.5???" followed by "YOU ONLY PAID HOW MUCH???". Like Jimmy said it's kinda nice beating your buddies with a 160.00cdn car! If I only had a little more motor down the straight - who knows where I may have finished.
I'd love to share my set-up. Jimmy do you any plans of making an editable set-up sheet similiar to the 501X? With this many people following the DB01 thread there's got to be a couple of good ones out there. I've got two (indoor carpet and outdoor clay/dusty) I'd love to share. P.S. Great Site!!! D-Main Donnie |
haha, might try get round to it some day buddy - I'm just really busy at the moment but yeah it would be good to make one for the car.
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I was very tempted to get a durga for the sole purpose of racing a fairly budget car against a load of 501's and being still on pace.
I chickened out and bought the WE 501 though :P |
I'd be very interested in seeing a sheet of setups ;)
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Cheers! |
No pressure then Jimbo :woot:
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Me too :)
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Written out or on the Durga sheet?
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Durga Sheet stylee would be good, but if the lingo is the same then written out would be just as good I think.
Cheers! |
I have put the setup in the Durga setups thread in the forum - You can ask questions about it here I suppose to keep that thread tidier, I would certainly welcome any feedback on it, it goes pretty well for me, very consistent and easy to drive.
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Bugger!
Not happy http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...1/DSC00665.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...1/DSC00666.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...1/DSC00668.jpg 3rd corner of first heat, went wide over track markings and head on into a B44, B44 broke a shock shaft:( I broke; wishbone, pivot block, shock bottom, bent hinge pin, lost end bits(plastic things on the ends of the hinge pins) Shock bottom is no problem, have spares, need to buy wishbone, pivot block(may go aluminum) and get some of the plastic pivot ball things. So question-where can I buy pivot balls, wishbone and aluminum pivot blocks from? |
I've been getting lots of nice parts from the japan and HK based ebay shops. They've been very quick to deliver at around 5 days and they mark things as a gift on the package so you don't pay duty :)
I use the tamiya usa db01 hop-up list to get part numbers to search for. http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rcp...chassis_id=B01 So far I've put in the front one way, slipper clutch and super stock BZ 23t motor. Runs much better now :D but just makes me want even more speed! I have big plans for it over the summer :thumbsup: |
All my build pics are here http://s55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...-m/Durga-DB01/
a selection http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...1/DSC00611.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...1/DSC00619.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...1/DSC00631.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...1/DSC00663.jpg |
So does anyone know where I can get pivot balls, wishbone and aluminum pivot blocks from? As in one shop that sells them all?
Can you get the pivot balls seperatly from tamiya or another make? |
Brock Models have the wishbone and the pivot balls, but I've only seen the 3 Racing ally parts on ebay and stella models. The pivot balls are listed under the on-road parts section here
Hope that helps Chris |
thanks, just ordered those, will keep with the plastic blocks for now then, if it happens again I will go aluminum
bring on friday!:woot: |
guys im having some kind of probs with my durga
its the ball diff that is when i throttle the diff will spin but the buggy wont move seem like the diff is just slipping both front and rear what did do wrong here? |
did you glue the metal rings onto the plastic outdrives?
A way to check if its tight enough, is to hold one wheel and the spur gear, you should only just be able to turn the opposite wheel at the right setting |
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