well, if you find any, let me know, I need one or two.... the one that I had for my daughters car was pre-painted in the box art colour.... and she wants pink and flowers.... oh the joys!!

And it be nice to get the Baldre shell too

Thanks for this. :thumbsup:

No worries. I'm putting a DB-01 together myself for an indoor race on Sunday. Really rushing it this time. :woot:

sim you've bought yourself a durga already:woot:

Sent an order query to RCChamp last week on this, and asked about a Baldre bodyset too. Got a reply back 48 hours later to say they didn't have any as they were a slow selling item and I should try again in 2 weeks, as they may have some in a future shipment. Either that or I have to buy another kit again (seeing as I sold my last one to someone at the Club - I couldn't refuse, I'd like to race against another Durga).

Thanks for that Jimmy. No, my bad, only the rear one had melted. It was so bad that I couldn't get the balls out!! So i found a mail order shop on the net called demonpowerproducts.co.uk and they had some pulley's in stock. I phoned them and they said it was cool to go and pick it up (only about 20 mins away in Aldershot) which was really nice of them for a mail order company. Whilst I was there I picked up 24 tungston diff balls aswell, can't resist a bit of hopping up;).

So, put it all back together with more super glue and have just put my 3s lipo through it, came indoors a few minutes ago and stripped it down just to check the rear diff and the plates came off again with not too much trouble!

So, how come the TRF diffs don't need glueing? And by 'roughing up' do you meen a bit of sandpaper or something?

And a heads up for anybody contemplating Ansmann shocks, save your money!! Bought some from my local shop for a try as they were cheap, just a stop gap whilst I wait for my TRF ones from Stella. One bad corner, car flipped and the shock snapped in two:thumbdown:. Crazy I know but stock shocks are better imo.

Thanks for that Jimmy. No, my bad, only the rear one had melted. It was so bad that I couldn't get the balls out!! So i found a mail order shop on the net called demonpowerproducts.co.uk and they had some pulley's in stock. I phoned them and they said it was cool to go and pick it up (only about 20 mins away in Aldershot) which was really nice of them for a mail order company. Whilst I was there I picked up 24 tungston diff balls aswell, can't resist a bit of hopping up;).

So, put it all back together with more super glue and have just put my 3s lipo through it, came indoors a few minutes ago and stripped it down just to check the rear diff and the plates came off again with not too much trouble!

So, how come the TRF diffs don't need glueing? And by 'roughing up' do you meen a bit of sandpaper or something?

And a heads up for anybody contemplating Ansmann shocks, save your money!! Bought some from my local shop for a try as they were cheap, just a stop gap whilst I wait for my TRF ones from Stella. One bad corner, car flipped and the shock snapped in two:thumbdown:. Crazy I know but stock shocks are better imo.

the metal outdrives and metal plates grip better and slip less, the plastic ones need to be glued, use a very thin super glue but degrease first!!!

3S lipo you might just wanna invest in the steel outdrives though

haha yeah, 3s lipo is a big slice of mad cake!! :lol:

Hi guys,

Great forum btw. Learning heaps from reading through the pages.

Been out of RC for years - think Marui Hunter and Tamiya Striker as my last cars !!!! Have emailed RC Champ for a price on a couple of Durgas which I'm contemplating buying for my nephews and nieces to play with or race.

Couple of noob questions if you will indulge me please :

1. What are CVD's and does anyone have a pic to clue me in ? I assume they replace the standard drives ? Part number helpful too please.

2. Have asked them to include slipper clutch, would the TRF diff be essential as well (no glueing ?)

Not going to go brushless - having enough trouble getting my head aroud electronic speed controls :D so any other parts you would consider essential for strenthening the car I would appreciate it. Ham fisted kids and ham-fisted self should see some unintentional punishment dealt to these cars.

Why did it double my reply? Why did it double my reply?

Yeah, love the 3s Lipo coupled with my Mamba Max 5700 BL. Crazy fun, although a lot nicer to drive in the Durga compared to my old DF-02 Gravel Hound.

I'm going to get some 'Rubber Cement' in a minute, cheap fix compared to new TRF diffs (spent enough ££ this month on hop ups!)

Rubber cement is the stuff that comes with Airfix model kits, takes a while to dry but has slightly more elasticity to it, Super Glue gets hot, goes brittle and just brakes away, as i've found out twice now. Just glad I checked after one run, otherwise I would have had another melted diff!!!

I searched for rubber cement online and couldn't find any, what else is it known as?

Cheers!

I use a decent THIN tyre glue

I was told that it was the same as the glue that you get in a bike puncture repair kit. However, I think if it is you should ignore the manual this one time and go for a conventional thin (as DCM says) superglue ie, the sort you'd use on tyres. That is what I used after my "rubber cement" came undone after one meeting, leaving the diff plates spinning no matter how tight the diff was set. Since then the diff plates have remained firmly in place but the downside is that I now need the new plastic outers to mount my new plates on as I cannot get the buggers off the old ones :thumbdown:.

I used awesome think tyre glue - and it broke off. :thumbdown:

More commonly known as Evo-Stik, or any other contact adhesive. One big advantage is when the diff washers wear out you can slide a knife between the washer and mount and get them apart.

CVDs is the name MIP gave to their rebuildable universal joint driveshafts. CVDs are MIPs trademark so every other company calls them CVAs or in Tamiyas case just universals.
http://www.fusionhobbies.com/Product...A54015&click=2

Everyone calls them CVDs just like we all call the vacuum cleaner a hoover.

Rubber cement is AKA 'Polystyrene Cement' found with all small scale model airplanes, boats, tanks etc etc. Can't think why that would be good for sticking metal to plastic? I'm going to try 4 small blobs of tyre glue and 4 small blobs of rubber cement on each plate, run a pack through it again and i'll post the results.

Might just have to get the TFR diffs, would save a lot of grief:confused:

Rubber cement is NOT polystyrene cement. Polystyrene cement is designed purely to melt polystyrene kits together. It does not stick to anything else at all, not even most plastics.
With rubber cement such as Evo-Stik you coat both surfaces with it, let it dry and they stick together on contact. It's a very reliable way of attaching metal to plastic.

Cyano/super glue/tyre glue (all the same) will also glue the washers in place but it's a lot more difficult to get the washers off the mounts.

No, it isn't.

Rubber cement is the type of adhesive used for puncture repairs, polystyrene cement is actually a solvent that dissolves the plastic commonly used for model kits so parts can be joined together.
Rubber cement will stick to metal, plastic cement won't.

Cyano (tyre glue) will stick the plastic outdrive to the metal diff ring but won't adhere well to the plastic. Rubber cement (from any good cycle shop or Hellfrauds) will do a better job.

How to set the slipper?
 

Just finished building my kit and have to sleep and wake up in 5 hours to go racing. Haha. Just one question though. How do I tell if my slipper is slipping before the ball diffs? With my other cars, I grab one wheel and a spur, and turn the opposite wheel with the other and watch if the slipper plates are moving. With the DB-01, the spur is only firmly in place after we put on the spur cover, after which we cannot grab the spur. I thought about grabbing both rear wheels (feet are handy) and working the front diffs and vice versa, but this doesn't work because the front and rear diffs are directly connected to the non-slipping pulley side of the centre lay shaft, so the slipper doesn't get to work this way. :confused:

Toonz, I got the Baldre :thumbsup:

I would lock the spur down to check the diffs, then back the slipper off and then test, tighten till it slips the right amount

Right, just got back from Jewson! Bought some sand and a bag of blue circle cement, stuck in a bit of water and hey presto........ diff plate sicks!! Silly me for thinking it was the same as Poly cement?!?! Glad you guys could put me right. Added a bit of 'shoe goo' aswell, seems really good at the mo, was gonna try 'Pritt stick' but that seemed a bit pony.

On a serious note, found some stuff in 'Hobbycraft' (feel free to laugh), metal to plastic glue with FlexTec technology, withstands temps from -50c to 120c.

Theres enough DB-01 people on here to have a bit of an opinon cast, what glue have we all used and has it been sucsessful?

Tell that to my rear diff, so difficult it just falls off? Won't last one pack without falling off, (and it's high branded expensive stuff:confused:)

You did degrease the parts first? Use any cleaner, or even good old washing up liquid, but you have to make sure the surfaces are really clean and roughed up (so the glue can grab on to it) before trying to stick them together with cyano. Got a whole pile of touring car diffs with metal washers cyanoed to plastic outdrives, so I know it works.

:thumbsup: Bob Smith Industries Super Thin Cyanoacrylate glue onto the diff plates and plastic outers that I roughed up with 80 grit sandpaper and thoroughly degreased. No failures yet despite some serious heat in the rear diff. Got it from PBM in Nottingham but I should think most race shops will sell this or similar.

:thumbdown:Halfords Rubber Cement. Complete cack, didn't even last one meeting running a mildish motor. I applied it to diff plates that had been degreased but admittedly hadn't been sandpapered.

I think scuffing the plates and plastic rings is essential as it helps the glue to "key" in to the items being bonded.

Yes, as crude as it may be, very very hot water and fairy liquid, then dried with bounty kitchen roll. Does that sound sufficient?

Only thing I hadn't done. Just been 'roughing it' for a while and tried my new 'Hobbycraft' glue. I'll leave it over night and try it out tomorrow.

Dunno, I shot my plates and plastic rings with aerosol carb cleaner so I can't comment on the effectiveness of Fairy, although I'm sure it means you have soft hands :lol:. Carb cleaner (which I managed to get everywhere) has acetone in it so I had very dry skin for a day afterwards, had to pinch some of beloveds E45 cream!!

Bounty? You are really chucking money at this car mate. I used Lotus Thirst Pockets as its cheaper (and I'd run out of Wilko's Blot, the 4 for a quid rolls).

If I had to beg the big T to redesign one part of this car it would be the diffs. I'd gladly spend £10-£15 more on the kit if it came with proper outdrives rather than the 2 piece thing.

carb cleaner has a lubricant in it, Brake Cleaner is what you need to use.

I thought i would share some pictures with you guy's of my almighty Durga. This is my first time trying to post photo's so i hope all goes well. I hope you guys like the pic's as much as i do.[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/All%20Users/Documents/My%20Pictures/Car%20Pictures%20001.jpg[/IMG]

AJ, have a look at the sticky thread for posting photos in the 'general chat' forum - that should help. Not sure if YOU can see the photo you linked to but it won't work for the rest of us I'm afraid as it's linked to your computer.

Thankyou Terry.sc. Appreciate the link.

Here is my hopped up Durga

Belt tightening?
 

Btw. How tight should be belt (is the tightenig right word)? Is there sort of rule about correct tightenig?

Nice pics A.J.

What settings do you use for the ESC? I keep changing mine on the PC, trying to get it to run smoothly. It's a bit jerky sometimes at full throttle, i've got a strong battery, deans connectors and the receiver wires are all well away from the motor leads. I tried shortening my motor wires as somebody mentioned earlier but my soldering iron is not up to the job, dunno what solder those Castle Creations dudes use?!

Be interesting to know how your ESC is set?

Season start !
 

What a wonderful season start ! After waiting for clear weather and a dry track, my Durga ran five packs aon Sunday, performing admirably ! Thanks a lot to all the contributors on this forum who helped me on issues I hadn´t even met yet:thumbsup:!
I´m not even waiting for setups coming in on the Durga setup thread, as the cars almost perfectly dialled and smooth as a cat...:D

Here´s some pics I took with my right hand while driving with my left...:

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/7...862xct6.th.jpg
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/7...51xxwd7.th.jpg

Durga+slipper+3racing alloy susp.+GMGenius95ESC+BL Evo5.5T
I had to put the receiver (huge+cheap) to the front right side, works great !

Hope you enjoy driving this car as much as I do !

cheers ! Stefan

Congratulations for your happy start.

Our WE was less enjoyable with a high speed crash (thanks to the Nosram Evo and Storm 5.5) against this:

Don't know who was stupid enough to put it there, but we were stupid enough not to notice it before it was too late...
http://www.oople.com/forums/F:\DSC00017.JPG

Result: Right rear arm torn off, axle severely bent... and nothing else.

Amazingly the famous suspension balls (the fluorine coated) remained in place!

Good opportunity to clean and check everything!

Here is the pic (hopefully)http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/2530/dsc00017wo1.jpg

thats construction Rebar..... WTF

Anyone floggin a DB-01.... need another one??