might still be able to get it out with a decent driver - but it should be no problem at all to drill it out as has been said

When cutting the wing, what lines would you recommend I cut to?

i am still not quite understand how to get it out with a drill, please help

Eddie

Drill out the hex head with a 4mm bit, when you remove the casing, youll have a thread sub sticking out the top by a few mm ?
The take some plyers or good grips and twist out buddy, should come out sound, just take care not to snap the thread you have left!

lee

I was told by a reliable source that Hupo Honigl himself does not cut the rear flap higher than 1.5 lines. Then the sides at an appropriate level, most people seem to be running them 1 or two lines higher than the rear flap. Most people seem to cut a curve between the rear and side flaps to stop the wing cracking down the edge.

Personally I am running the wing with one line on the rear flap. Whether this is right or not I couldn't say, although I was jumping a bit nose down with kit settings so 2 lines may help that tendency.

Hey guys. I am currently waiting for my mamba max 6900 brushless system, slipper clutch, front one way,and 3racing front and rear graphite shock towers so needless to say my Durga buggy is going to be quite hopped up despite not having ordered shocks for it yet. I was wondering if any of you guys could give me some advice on how to gear it properly so that i wont cause any damage internally to her? This will be my first time running brushless so i just want to take all the nescacerry precautions to ensure everything will run smooth. Thanks.



A.J.

Hi,
Werner is the name, all the way from South Africa, and new to this forum.
You guys sound smart, so would appresiate your advice.

I have raced onroad for 2 years and lost interest and sold everything. About 2 years later...and I would like to buy an 1/10th offroad kit but can't decide which buggy to get???

Would like something that would be good on a track and also good for messing around with in the park or my yard. I would like to limit myself to about $250.00 for the buggy.

DB-01, ZX-5 or XXX4....???

Your insight would be appresiated

W.

Got my 3racing front and rear towers and they seem ok.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...o/P1050132.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...o/P1050134.jpg

Check out those screw heads lol ;)

They dont look too bad at all buddy, ive some on the way from 3 too!
What kind of thickness are they? One thing i havent done yet is trim my wing to not hit the kit shock tower, was wondering if the 3 towers would allow me to do away with this job!

lee

Werner, hmm id go with the DB01, its a really good car and from the box its pretty good, the ZX5, getting on a bit in RC timelines i reckon, but not dismissing it, another good chassis.
Id give the XXX4 a miss though, its an overblown touring car to be really honest, from what i read, the XX4 nails it, and the XX4 is way old, goes to show, Losi put a hell of a lot of work into that car!
Jimmy would be the guy to really answer though, he knows the shizzle on most Buggies around :)

lee

I've got just a quick question: there are no ''touring'' hexes or ways to fit these???

The DB-01 looks to be a decent chassis, Jason Bennet's looks mint going round.

Don't discount the NEW Lazer ZX5-SP though ... I think either will do it for you if you don't want to be running a BJ4 clone.

simple.... no.... sorry

Are you sure you have the rear tower assembled right?

I assumed the shock mounts would be spaced forward of the camber mounts so it is the same as the kit moulding.

I got the front tower and find the shocks leaning back a bit far, so might space the forward at the top a bit more....

They will only fit one way mate

just looked on the 3Racing site, you got the rear tower assembled wrong.... honest

http://www.3racing.com.hk/manuals/DB01-03WO.jpg

cheers for the instructions DCM
my bad tbh i didnt even look at the instruction leaflet because of the VERY poor print

it looks like it can be assembled 2 ways then :D

this is what it looks like from above at the mo ... at least there is a little more space between the shocks and the shell
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...o/P1060136.jpg

Righto, Managed to get to the track today for a couple of hours.

Pleasantly surprised by the cars performance, I ran a couple of my practice batteries through to get used to the way she drove, then dropped in my Lipo and started putting in some aggressive laps, It loved being thrown hard into corners, I was easily able to catch the slide and power out, I was able to pick my lines and stick to them at whatever speed I wanted to travel at, to the point of laying down too much power and losing traction.

So, In box standard form it handled my 8,5 brushless pretty good, I wouldn't want to go any faster until the shocks were replaced, Had plenty of moments where the car got skittery and I had to back off, especially down the main straight where holding her on the power caused it to enter the corner way out of control.

I still stand by my initial assessment, Compared to cars that are only a bit more expensive it doesn't present great value for money considering the shortcuts taken by Tamiya, But if your heart is set on racing a Tamiya or if your budget is limited to the price of the DB-01, It will do the job pretty well. (New Zealand prices)

The track I race on is hard packed with a patchy and very dusty surface, Shes pretty unforgiving and a real handful to drive on at high speed.

My DF-03 in comparison was near impossible to drive around the track at any pace even after I spent boatloads of cash on it.

Oh yeah, day finished with a very low speed glancing blow on a piece of timer that tore the rear arm off....

Yes, no problem.

Just like the D4