2000cst :)

Tamiya anti wear grease is the made for this purpose. Use that mate.

Is anti wear a little thick for this application?

The grease's intention is for metal to metal to plastic contact. You don't need a lot, put a little on the gears, spin the transmission up and you get an even coat on all the gears, I tend to pull the box apart afterwards and clean off be excess that's forced out to the case.

If your worried about a little stiction by running this, remember the motors we use are plenty powerful and what stiction there is in the transmission is minimal, certainly not detrimental to performance.

Or do as a few others have said and use diff gear oil, which its purpose is to cause internal friction between planetary gears to give a specific rotating action.

Each to there own and I'm sure everyone has there own way of doing this, this is just my take on it. I find if something is designed for a certain use, it generally is the best method.

I now use this Hiro Seiko after I ran out of Tamiya anti-wear grease. Hope that helps.

http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ar-grease.html

Many thanks for your reply. Anti wear it is then!

Try not to get anti wear grease in the bearings.

I would get some finish line wax lubricant for bike chains.
It stops the dirt getting picked by the grease and allows the bearing to run really free.


On to another subject how is everyone getting their car to grip slippy wooden floors without adding extra weight?

I had a meeting today. I broke down my ESC a while a go so I took my old TC ESC and my god, what a crappy drive. Car was pretty decent (lacking on power low-mid corner though, need to find that out coming weeks), but I was crap. But the first heats felt like I went from Stick to Wheel and felt like I was driving with my eyes closed. Total different feeling and I wasn't even coming close to practice times.

But, car was solid. Didn't brake a thing :thumbsup:

Even tried a secret hop-up (nobody noticed), but I'm not sure if it feels all right. More testing soon.

Somebody more tips on more low-mid corner on-power steering? I was thinking about reducing droop in the rear?

Holy crap, I even touched your car and I didn't noticed the secret hop-up? :confused::lol:

It was a piece of carbon glued under the steering bridge. I'm looking into making it out of carbon for a more direct feeling. Still testing though :p

To strengthen the steering arm?, that has the steering balls on?

Yes. I was just testing things out (it was a small piece between the two steering balls). But my driving was not that great (actually really crap :lol:) yesterday. If possible I'm going to test some further on Saturday. Depends on available time.

@skyaflake: More on-power steering: My first guess would have been less droop in the front, maybe more anti-squat. If you are not already running long wheelbase, that could also be worth a try, as it shifts weight a little more to the front.
Almost forgot, try adding a spacer under the ballstuds on the steering rack to increase Ackermann. The other day, we moved the ballstuds on a fellow SC10 racer's ride to the back to decrease steering, and it worked quite well.

Bmax2 MR V2 FK
 

I ordered mine last week. Will be a little bit different from my current B4 I guess....
Delivery date indicated by Skyaflake (just a wild guess) end of December, beginning of January. Hmmmmm

You are right. That's me :p

Hi skyaflake,

What's this carbon brace you say is required with the carbon chassis?

Hi guys,

I need a bit of help here...
How tight do you adjust your ball diff?

No matter how much I tighten the diff, it still slips :confused:
Tightening the slipper all the way down and holding the wheels, doesn't make the front pop up...the diff just barks.

Should I take it apart and sand the diff rings?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated! :)

You don't need a carbon brace for the chassis. You'll need to small brace that comes with the Alu chassis. At the moment Yokomo does not sell it separately, i'm looking for a way to get the braces though (so you don't need the Alu chassis). Maybe produce them by myself.

I would take it apart for sure. I always screw my diff handtight and then turn it loose for about '10 minutes' or 1/6th of a whole turn and go from there.

You either built it wrong or your slipper is way too tight. Did you build it from new or is it a rebuild with aftermarket parts? What lube did you use?

Ola!

I haven't seen the YOK diff in real life yet, but it can't be much different from an Asso one.
My experience: once it has been slipping, it will be very hard to get it to stop slipping without replacing the balls, and sanding the drive plates.
During slipping, you're actually polishing flat spots on your balls (how does that sound? :D), which means that they can never run true again.

Thanks for all the replies!

I just finished rebuilding the diff and everything is good:thumbsup:

The only thing I did differently this time, was sanding the rings.
They were not exactly flat, but a few minutes with the sandpaper took care of that.

I learned a lesson here..if in doubt, sand!