Thanks a lot chris. I would really be interested in seeing the pics.

Ok, hopefully this should work, took a few pics, you can see them in here:

http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g168/Wardylock/Durga/

Chris

Looking good in the pics you posted. Does Tamiya supply hardware to mount the dampers to the 3racing shock towers. And please tell me your going to swap out that wimpy stock motor, for something with some balls.

Tamiya Slave,
I've run 3Racing dampers on my DF-03 before and I sold them off. The shocks themselves worked well but were of a bigger diameter than most 1/10 scale shocks so I couldn't find springs for them. The 3Racing springs (black) were too stiff for racing use. Only thing I found that fit were Losi springs but they would need cutting down, and even then, they weren't a perfect fit (Losi springs are even bigger diameter, slightly).

I can't say I've seen the 3Racing DB-01 shocks, but my guess is they are the same diameter as their DF-03 ones.

My DF-03 is running the stock plastic shocks (same as the ones on the DB-01) but with the 2-hole pistons instead of the 3-hole recommended in the manual, plus gold springs from the Tamiya spring kit (for DF-03). Not spectacular, but not too shabby neither. Oh, tamiya #400 yellow oil in them at the moment.

Hi Tamiya Slave,
All the parts I used to mount the dampers came in the box with the damper kit (X parts tree IIRC), there are no 3Racing parts, aside from the tower itself.
Yes don't worry about the motor, it's only in there to check I've got everything built up right and for me to have a gentle run in, not raced for 8 or 9 years, so would prefer to play myself back in with something nice and slow. I already have a Peak Vantage 12 x 2 sitting in a box next to the car though...;)

Chris

apart from champ does anyone know were i can get the trf/db01 damper kit from i had a look and still no joy

Thanks again Chris. Hey Bod, im not really sure right now if there are any other places that you can get the dampers. I have looked myself and only found them at the same places that you mentioned.

Well today i finally took the plunge and went Lipo. I ordered myself the Orion 3600 carbon edition for $90.00 which i guess is about 45 pounds. I am pretty happy that i found such a quality lipo for that price, since i am working on a tight budget as usual. If anyone else is interested in checking out these packs on the site i ordered, it is stormerhobbies.com I guarantee you that you will not find these packs as cheap as they sell them. My next step is to get a Lipo capable charger. I was wondering if any of you guys had a recomendation on a quality charger for the best price. Thanks guys. A.J.

I got this one,

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=52_53&products_id=12897&pna me=APEX%20-%20(LI)%20DC/AC%206.5A,%20Fan%20Li-Ion,%20Li-Poly%20Batt.%20Charger


Due to it having its own switching power supply, Meaning it was compatible with NZ outlets, as well as running off a car battery.

My next choice would have been at least 3 to 4 times the price when coupled with a power-supply.

I have always been impressed with Apex chargers, My nicd,nimh charger has been doing its job for about 5 years,still going strong.

Bear in mind I don't know what's currently good value on the UK market.

How long have you owned that charger for Melta, and have you had any problems with it yet? I was looking into maybe getting the hyperion EOS 5i. Do you or anybody have experience with this brand of chargers?

Stellamodels now have them in stock ;)

http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/...=54028&x=0&y=0

[quote=mrbiccies;107621]Stellamodels now have them in stock ;)

cheers for that cant really understand rcchamp

[quote=bod405;107697]If you guys want to get this running sweetly i think if you can find him look out for Steve Rich he has made it look well with a few upgrades which he has made out of alloy, it goes rather well.

I cant believe I am actually saying this, me actually saying his car looks good - its taken you years mate but finally you have impressed me!!! Also your paint job to Daves 501x shell is rather nice as well.

Also enjoy it, you did for the first time beat me in 4wd (since I began racing in 1986). But revenge will be sweet when I get my 501x running well, (and manage to fit a one way to the layshaft) and will be out for revenge.

Just to keep you guys posted, we are releasing new parts for the DB01 chassis in the next month. The list includes:

• 54033 Carbon Reinforced A Parts (Diff Cover)
• 54034 Carbon Reinforced D Parts (Caster Blocks)
• 54035 Carbon Reinforced L Parts (Steering Arm)
• 54036 Carbon Reinforced M parts (Damper Stay)

Pricing is not availible at this time however. Keep checking www.tamiyausa.com to find pricing as soon as it's posted.

I noticed there is a mark on the chassis mould for carbon version, is this going to come out also at some point?
A carbon laminate (woven) battery strap would be a nice addition and would help stiffen the chassis a little too.

I would imagine so as that is their typical way of doing things around Tamiya. Honestly, I wouldn't make sense not to ast some point. That is also the case for true carbon shock towers. They are very guarded with what they are working on so it makes it difficult to get some insight as to what is in the pipeline.

heh, thanks James, the DB-01 I feel, don't need the one-way at the moment.

The car is good enough with a few subtle upgrades, it will hold it's own in more well endowed company. Considering I sold a fully tarted up ZX5, I think the DB01 goes far better.

All 4wd cars need a one way! :thumbsup:

to be honest, I think the standard car is great - but I like to drive with a one way (diff or layshaft) you have to drive the car differently but I just find it more fun. a centre oneway for the Durga wouldn't be a bad idea - I think a one way diff can be a bit much for some drivers especially at the level the car is aimed.

I agree, it is a tuning aide, indoors to me it don't feel it needs the help of a one-way, see what it is like outdoors.....

TA05 carbon battery strap is a perfect fit.

I have had it about 4 months, Apex are a well respected brand in these parts and I have had a good run with their gear so I don't expect any problems.

Though if I had needed a charger to do more then just lipo I may have looked at something entirely different.

Afraid I have never heard of the hyperion EOS 5i, The RC scene in NZ is tiny so very little of the vast range of products ever make it here.

Shorty's Durga has a one way. He coped remarkably well with it the first time he drove it. I think you would struggle for steering without it.

Thats the odd thing Dom, last few times I have raced it, I have never struggles for steering at all.

When I had mine on a tight dirt track the lack of available steering made things difficult, I struggled to drive the car at any pace, I believe a one way would have enhanced the car remarkably under these circumstances.

but like I said, it is a tuning aide, just like tyres, springs, shock oil, camber positions etc, they are all tools to aide you in obtaining the handling you want in a car. A one-way for a novice can be quite daunting where as a diff is safer.

I prefer to set a car up without one if I can, I don't even like them in the saloon.... but I will run one if I need to.

No argument there, Its definitely something you can take out or put in to suit conditions/preference.

The option to install one in a car is positive, Rather then saying having to put one in to suit is a negative. And someone with more skill in regards to set-up could probably adjust the car to suit tight conditions without installing a one-way.

I'm a little biased towards one-ways though, I like them a lot.

Well what got me was it held its own well on the jumps, and even though you and Dave were aiming at me every time (Dave taking the mickey down to me not getting into the A) the distance you were doing without damage was a surprise to me. Obviously Tamiya has found the correct plastic mix and it can handle abuse.

I didnt like the ZX back in 89 with out a one way, but boy with a one way it went a heck of a lot faster indoors, and out, and you know how quick mine was as well as Tuckers. You need to get a one way and try it, as soon as you put it in you wont want to take it out. Its that much better.

And dont forget this car is a bit better than the ZX5, so the characteristics will be different.

I know what the one-way does and how it makes the car feel, I just didn't feel it needed it, and it definately didn't look like it needed it round that track either...

I would think overall that it is better to have the one way rather than not having it.

it looked ok, does your car have same size diffs or is it like the 501x where the front is one tooth smaller? If they are the same size then that kindof makes sense with what your saying.

they are same size diffs front and rear, 501Xworlds diffs

Do any of you guys that own the Durga have a problem with the front wheels rubbing when you have the wheels turned. For some reason my wheels rub against what i think is the hub when i spin the wheels and i have the wheel turned to either the left or right side. It seems that i may have to sand down some of the plastic on the inside of the wheels.

No problems with mine so far - done 4 meetings with only a couple of rounds as DNFs (thanks to the stock suspension pin mounts letting go).

As far as one ways are concerned I bought mine as everyone seemed to be buying these and the slipper as soon as they bought the car. Mine is still in the packet as I personally have never found the car lacking in steering (if anything its too pointy by 'arf). However, if you like a car to "rotate" into a corner a la B4, I can see a one way would be necessary.

Jimmy, are you going to go through with your hopped-up Durga test and report ? I'd be intrested how it would stack up against a TRF501XWE in the hands of an experienced racer ..... I would have a guess it would be down to a question of which has the best balance (battery+motor config) Of course the Durga wins a point on loose offroad with a sealed drivetrain.
anyone else slightly curious ?

Over the weekend, we had our first round of local qualifiers for the Tamiya Asia Cup and only Tamiya parts were allowed. I was driving a DF03 but many of my friends were running Durgas and some of them had problems with the rim hex getting rounded off. Are there any fixes for this? Thanks.

tighten the front wheels properly, mine done 10 runs on the front rims and no problems...

Yes, me. I think we really need to know the answer to this question to be able to resolve this whole thread which itself started as a question! C'mon Jimmy, put us out of our misery ;).

I was wondering as of late why people recommend using the universal shafts for the front rather than for the rear?

Ummm, honestly I don't know, I got them 'cos I am a bit of a sheep and do what the rest of the herd does without thinking. When the Durga came out everyone was posting that you must get a) slipper, b) one way, c) CVDs. So I did. Latterly it settled down to just the slipper and the front CVDs being a "must buy".

If I was to guess I'd say it is because they are more efficient than dog bones and to buy fronts as they work through a greater angle than the rears what with having to cope with the steering. Also, I think that the front end is more prone to the odd knock and dogbones can sometimes pop out which is not a massive problem indoors, but on an outside track it could be a nightmare trying to find it again.

Just my opinion so if anyone else can enlighten us please feel free.

the front CVD's is done for three reason, 1) the dogbones make the front end more agressive mid turn, 2) They wear quickly, 3) chance of loss in an accident.

The rear is the same reasons except they make the rear square up more under acceleration too.

The Slipper takes the load off the rear diff.

Front one-way is a tuning option, I may get one but not felt it needed it yet.