i just rebulld my diff only becaus my out drives had worn but my diff had never been rebullt sice i got the car in april an diff was still like new in side

please can some one post up a vid of the right way to build the losi 22 diff as i run on astro and grass on the weekend and on a friday i run on carpet and i keep distroying my diff i got standard internals and a AE diff nut and through bolt but it still get nackered slipper is slipping to try and save the diff but its still getting f--ked :confused::mad::mad::mad:

Not sure how often you rebuild it, or how tight (or loose) you run it, but the b-fast kits seem to add to diff life for the diff-deficient.

http://www.bfastrc.com/tlr.html

i pretty much rebuild after every time i use it :mad: i will look up the parts you have suggested . i run it as tight as i can as to stop it slipping but normaly half way through a race it will start slipping and wreck the balls:mad:

the "original" stock diffballs have appeared to some users to be soft, so Losi has come out with some hardened tungsten carbide balls (TLR2951) but the b-fast ones I linked earlier seem to be better.
keep in mind that running on higher traction surfaces put more stress on the diff, and a more careful tightening - but if it's loosening on you, it suggests to me your locknut needs replacing or a drop of loctite would cure what ails you.

ok thanks for the info i will have to get some stonger balls and some thread lock .

has any one tried the gear diff in there 22 and is there any benefit to running one ?

Last I checked the Losi22 geardiff (LOSA2954) still isn't available.
Some guys have forced AE geardiff in theirs, but since it's a different teeth-count I didn't want to fool with that.
Only real benefit to a geardiff is lack of required upkeep, so the "kick the dirt off and put it away" (basher/non-racer) types really like them, but I think you would find that the majority of real racers wouldn't fool with them as they don't perform as well or consistently as a balldiff. Read somewhere - "There's a reason the balldiff universally replaced geardiffs in 10th scale offroad cars over 20 years ago, and reverse engineering always seems to create more problems than it solves."

Ok cool won't waist my money when it comes out then . If any of you have the cream weight in there cars does it make a difference and do the tyres last longer as I had a play with my car today and went threw a set of tyres in 3 batteries worth of playing

was the inside rear wheel lifting at all? That will kill tires and should be the first thing to diagnose. The cream weight will help as will the tlr weight kit. stiffer front springs and softer rear would be the next step or lean the shocks over more.

I don't remember having oil filled diffs 20 years ago, a dry gear diff will tend to spin the power away through the inside wheel, oil filled diffs don't tend to.

Personally, after 2 years with gear diffs in my Durango, I don't want another ball diff, can't wait to get shot of the one in my 22, convinced it's the last bit stopping it from working as it should.

Ok thanks I didn't notice the inside wheel lifting but it might be
I will get a cream weight .
I take it by leaning the shox over would make it roll more ?

My final setup from Stotfold Winter Series Round 1 16/10/2011, car felt good, driving was up the creak!!

Dry astro

Front Suspension
Toe: 0'
Ride Height: wishbones level
Camber: 2'
Castor: 10'
Kick Angle: 25' - Brass
Oil: 35
Piston: 4 hole #55 pistons
Spring: Silver
Spindle Type: Trailing
Shock Limiters: 2mm
Shock Location: 2-middle
Bump Steer: 1mm
Camber Link: 1 - 2mm washers on tower, 1mm washers on hub

Rear Suspension
Chassis Configuration: Rear
Toe: 4'
Anti Squat: 1'
Roll Center: HRC
Ride Height: Driveshafts Level
Camber: -1'
Wheel Base: Medium
Oil: 27.5w
Piston: 4 hole 2x#54 and 2x#55
Spring: Yellow
Shock Limiters: 0mm
Camber Link: 2-E (3mm under tower ball stud and 1mm under hub ballstud)
Shock Locations: 2-inside
Hex Width: +1.5mm

50 grams under full size stick LIPO

Front tyres: yellow cut staggers - Mr 'O' Firm insert
Rear Tyres: yellow mini spikes - Mr 'O' Wide soft insert

What do you think came in the Kyosho Ulitma?

Yes, you want the rear to roll more instead of pivoting like mine was when lifting the inside rear wheel, leaning the shocks over made a big differance.

I will do that then I will get the shox lent over .
Is it worth doing it on the front two ?

I found the HRC rear block helped solve the mid corner pivoting, also might be worth tightening the diff 1/8 of a turn and running the rear camber link more parallel to the driveshafts. Although you lose a bit or mid corner with a more parallel link it seemed much more progressive when it did let go.

nope, stand it up if anything

Ok will gve it a go

Q time.
Im swapping over my 22 from rear to mid motor for the impending indoor season to kick off.

My question as of now is to do with antisquat.

P 23 under the hinge pin brace TLR1065
Is this is where I put the anti squat shims TLR2044

What about in the brace? Do I have to have the equivalent IN to what I place under the brace?

2mm under 2* in?

Is this where I add more shims if I want more or less A.S.

With the mid motor is it going to make a lot of difference if I have the HRC or LRC? as I don't have a HRC just now

Hi there I run on carpet mostly and my set up is
Front
25 kick
5 deg caster
Red spring But could do with a stiffer set in there
55 stock piston with 27.5w oil
No tow and 1 deg camber
yellow minipins


Rear
Only need hrc if running out cide to get more grip and roll
4 deg tow lrc
2.5 anty sqote
Rear Huds are as fare forward as pos
Yelloy spring Thowe could go 1 stiffer
55 stock piston 20w oil
Yellow minipin mid insert all around

We don't have a lot of big jumps so I do t run any spring tenshion
If you do have big jumps I would go 2 stiffer all around
And put the car about arms level all around

Very happy with it no one can get close to me
B4
B4.1
Mad monkey
Yokomo bx
Cat 2000

Losi 22 killing them all lol