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-   -   TLR 22 Build and Set-ups (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65680)

Delves 05-10-2011 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cryer-evo (Post 562826)
Hi all having a bit of a problem with my diff bilt it from new smooth as silk then one run and ruff as hel reybilt it and still ruff help

Hi

Right, ive used the standard parts in my diff for a while and here is a few things I learnt early on –

Ensure that you build the thrust race with plenty of the Black grease, and also cake the diff rings/balls in lots of white grease.

The diff plates are flat out of the packet, so there is no need to sand them. I have found that if you sand the plate the performance of the diff isn’t as good and goes gritty/notchy faster.

Because the diff rings aren’t ‘D’ shaped to lock the ring I place Tamiya Hard Damper grease (which is purple and very sticky) on the side of the diff ring that face’s the diff half. If you don’t have any Tamiya Hard damper grease try a bit of the diff lube on the back of the plate (something I used to do with the Tamiya Diff in the 416 to stop the plate spinning on the diff half). If you do have the Damper grease ensure that none of it get’s into the diff itself.

Once built and installed in the car take time to run the diff in on the bench and tighten it up slowly till it doesn’t slip.

Hopefully this will help :)

Razer 06-10-2011 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cryer-evo (Post 562826)
Hi all having a bit of a problem with my diff bilt it from new smooth as silk then one run and ruff as hel reybilt it and still ruff help

How-to video of building and adjusting coming soon!

Razer 06-10-2011 02:39 PM

Soooo... Been testing rear motor a bit more. It can be a bit harder to drive, but damn. I'm faster with it, and in close fights it's so good to have the grip out of the turns.

This weekend the last outdoor race in the Norwegian cup was ran on high grip and shitf***hell bumpy astroturf.

I had to make a few changes to make the car stable, but the biggest change was actually going from the HRC to the LRC rear block, from 3,5 degree toe to 3 degrees.

It's seems like the HRC is better on high grip to stop the rear from rolling to much, but then again, on the bumps the LRC feels better and more forgiveable. Also, my mind might be tricking me, but it also seemed like the lesser toe helped free the rear up. It felt just as stable, if not more, and it felt like it carried more speed. The rear just felt more "with" me... If you catch my drift.

Blablabla. Done. Going home. Bye for now:P

TryHard 06-10-2011 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Delves (Post 562876)
Because the diff rings aren’t ‘D’ shaped to lock the ring I place Tamiya Hard Damper grease (which is purple and very sticky) on the side of the diff ring that face’s the diff half. If you don’t have any Tamiya Hard damper grease try a bit of the diff lube on the back of the plate (something I used to do with the Tamiya Diff in the 416 to stop the plate spinning on the diff half). If you do have the Damper grease ensure that none of it get’s into the diff itself.

*cough* after you were shown how to build a tamiya diff properly... right :p *cough*

Delves 06-10-2011 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TryHard (Post 563408)
*cough* after you were shown how to build a tamiya diff properly... right :p *cough*

You never showed me nothing! It was Hupo who told me the trick with the grease. Having said that you could build a mighty fine diff mr :)

Jaune 07-10-2011 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Razer (Post 563398)
Soooo... Been testing rear motor a bit more. It can be a bit harder to drive, but damn. I'm faster with it, and in close fights it's so good to have the grip out of the turns.

This weekend the last outdoor race in the Norwegian cup was ran on high grip and shitf***hell bumpy astroturf.

Hey Martin, is your rear motor setup the same as the last one you posted?

Thx

Razer 07-10-2011 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaune (Post 563599)
Hey Martin, is your rear motor setup the same as the last one you posted?

Thx

Almost! I now used LRC 3 degree, one extra 1mm shim under the inner front link, and the inner upper shock position up front. The track was super grippy AND bumpy though, so it wasn't great. Would be very interesting to test other places...

cryer-evo 08-10-2011 07:08 PM

will be good to see the diff build vid

first time out with my losi 22 today at ledbury off road track .
astro and grass very bumpy

set up was
stock apart from
2.5 antisquat
20w oil in rear
27.5 in front
25 kick
5 deg caster
fastrax turf ripper all round
medium inserts
6.5 brushless 19t pinion
6000mah sadle packs very tight fit but do fit

it was awsome was running with 2 b4's all day when we swoped cars i then found that my car was a lot easier to drive fast.:D
felt like a 4x4 to drive especially over jumps
bad pionts
went through 2 diffs dam thing coming loose and slipping :(
inside rear will bearing fell to pieces :confused:

but on the other hand the b4s i was practising with went through 3 rear shock towers :o

i had a lot of big offs and the 22 took it , very strong car

codi jones b4 08-10-2011 07:18 PM

bad pionts
went through 2 diffs dam thing coming loose and slipping :(

change the diff Screw and nut with a B4 one i had the same problem:thumbsup:

cryer-evo 08-10-2011 07:22 PM

will do is it a straight fit ?

codi jones b4 08-10-2011 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cryer-evo (Post 564250)
will do is it a straight fit ?

yes
:thumbsup:

cryer-evo 08-10-2011 08:21 PM

just ordered one with a new diff and a new set of fastrax turf ripers from jespares :thumbsup:

kayce 08-10-2011 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codi jones b4 (Post 564243)
bad pionts
went through 2 diffs dam thing coming loose and slipping :(

change the diff Screw and nut with a B4 one i had the same problem:thumbsup:

A dab of threadlock on the diff bolt/nut does wonders. Mine's never came loose in months of heavy use.

antonio_cadiz 08-10-2011 09:39 PM

tic, tac, tic, tac video of building and adjusting of Mr Razer :)

russmini 09-10-2011 06:18 AM

Just put the nut in the holder and drop a drop of CA glue in. It'll lock the nut in and you'll have no problems.

Done mine when i got the kit, first batch and never had a problem.

:thumbsup:

cryer-evo 09-10-2011 07:29 PM

my losi 22


http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/.../losi22001.jpg

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/.../losi22002.jpg

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/.../losi22003.jpg

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/.../losi22004.jpg

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/.../losi22005.jpg

Razer 10-10-2011 10:18 AM

[offtopic]

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6234/...14451e84_b.jpg

[/offtopic]

cryer-evo 10-10-2011 09:04 PM

Were is this diff vid ?

ed gaines 11-10-2011 03:20 PM

diff/thrust balls junk replace with AE.

Razer 11-10-2011 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ed gaines (Post 565342)
diff/thrust balls junk replace with AE.

Actually, that depends a lot on the diff builder;-)

But these partnumbers make your diff great!

TLR2947 - Tungsten Carbide thrust balls
TLR2951 - Tungsten Carbide diff balls
MIP09151 - Mip hardened thrust washer


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