Mine was a motor problem tony i found the car to be a1 all day loads of grip in the wet few crashes/clips but car was solid i was running craigs set up but with tapered pistons what adam uses :thumbsup::thumbsup:from me

I'll try and clear a couple of issues up on here:

1. Shocks shafts are correct in the kit. Just make sure you have fitted the rubber bumpstop onto the shock shaft before you fit the rod end.. Also once the spring perch is on there the piston doesn't break the top of the body.

We've had no issues throughout testing with shocks sticking at full compression.

As for the option part page, the 52mm shaft shouldn't be listed there. I'll get it removed today. It's also in the manual...

2. Diff - Circlip. It's best to install the circlip with some good Circlip pliers. It can be rendered useless if you try and force it in... A few tips here to help ensure your diff is built correctly.
a. There are two sides to the clip a flat side and a rounded side. When you install the circlip keep the 'flat' side facing you this way when under pressure from the thrust race the contact faces between the clip and the diff ring are the flat ones.

b. One the circlip is installed. Try to open it out a little either with the circlip pliers you just installed it with. Or insert a large flat blade screw driver between the open ends of the circlip and give the screwdriver a twist, this will open the circlip back out a little removing any 'shrinkage' of the clip on installation.

c. Make sure you put in the diff screw and T-nut in the correct sides. It builds differently to other diffs out there. Don't just build it 'the way you have been building ball diffs for 20 odd years'.

3. Breakages.
Shock Towers
These are always hard ones to justify... Sometimes when you break something you only see the end result of part that has already been weakened. We broke towers in testing and in racing, but TBH they were justified. We have towers from the production batch and the mix is good.

Steering.
Honestly, we never saw a broken one of these during testing, it must have been a really hefty hit.. We even did some testing at Coventry so we know what to expect from the track.

Nice advise Adam thanks :thumbsup:

Many thanks, going to re- check my diff build tonight re which side I put the C clip

Thanks for all the advice Adam. Pity I bought the option shafts when listed by MB as spares for the 210 :bored:. I can only think then that there must have been some kind of build error on my behalf, I did have the rubber gromit fitted, so I'm a bit mystified.

Super feel to the car BTW. I used Craig's setup for the National at Southport.

i cant find it in the manual but what should the shock lengths be?

Run my dex210 yesterday for the first time, i had a couple of issues with the diff during the build and wasnt 100% happy with it, but after its first run all was good, re adjusted the diff again and was faultless all day. im very happy with my frst 2wd buggy :)

Also a quick question for you setup experts out there: how do you get more on power steering other than changing tyres as i only have one set of front wheels at the mo! with stagged ribs fitted.

thanks

Could tryraising rear inner camber link, lower steering spindle, soften front end, or lengthen front camber link

with the shock rod-end screwed on fully and the shock built with the bump-stop AND the spring cup the piston will not go any further than it should.

As long as you can get the amount of droop that you want when using those option shock shafts, you can use them no problem.

you can't overcome 'wrong' tires, but some things that will help.

more caster will give you more on-power steering (but reduce turn-in)
also you could try playing with the trailing axle amount... its a really simple change that should have an effect on the way the car enters and exits turns

If you use the shock boots do you also have to use the bump-stop as i think i remember that on the normal DEX410 shocks you don´t need them as the shock boots fully compressed work as a kind of bump-stop, am i correct?

Yes, pretty much, but with it counting on a 'crumpled' rubber it could be a less consistent bump stop amount. it might be worth checking and adding some external spacers to compensate if required.

Hi
I ordered the 52mm shafts the black ones direct from td can i send them back and either get a refund or the correct ones

drop an email directly to Durango - [email protected]

Forums are great for 'chat' about products, but if you really need an answer to a question or a query direct communication is the best way.

posts in forums are so easy to miss, it just happens that I saw this one as I'm actively looking on this thread today.

Not much going on today then Chris? feet up, oople on...

Nail on Head!

Ohhhh, so there's two of you with not alot on!!

Back on thread.... car is really good, great build and good basic set up included. Found the car needed a few runs to loosen up suspension, as it was pants in the morning dampness when new. As the day went on it was much better than my limited skills.

Hi Jon,

Where did you test the car? Stotfold?

Any particular tips from the setup master?

Cheers,

Mike

A big thanks to Chris and Adam for clearing up these things, excellent support from Durango.

Regarding the shafts, I did not try with the spring retainer on, but I want to change oil any way so if I get the chance I will do it tonight and have a look. But I did have the end screwed on fully with the bump stop fitted.

On thing that is bothering me is on the manual, no where it mentions to fit a screw into the last rear hole on the side pods. I know using RM that the pod is used to scure the brace from the top but not from underneath. I know I could just fit a M3x6 cs screw, just wanted to know if any one else has noticed this or weather you shouldn't fit a screw there.

Ha, unfortunately, i am not the set up master when I'm driving, it as it takes all my powers to focus on controlling it. Yes i was at stotfold. Car was pretty much stock and the changes i made were to swap pistons around as has been suggested, 35wt front, 27.5 rear (losi oil) and then change to a 1.5 rear squat block. Key thing in the build is to get those inserts fitted right, the markings are not easy on the eye.

Also in light of limited wheels, i managed to fit tamiya 201 wheels on the front by shimming out the excess space on the axle (these wheels take 5x10 bearings) and to fit pin drive wheels on the back by using a 3/16 x 3/8 bearing (which is a RC10 B4 front wheel bearing and a perfect fit) and a split pin.

The updated manual online does include these missing screws, take a look, there a quite a few small updates
http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/manu...210-manual.pdf

Jon - glad to see your enjoying the car so far, yes, it might be a bit tight initially, but it should bed into 'perfect' instead of going sloppy.

Jon & Adam - HA! you guys are funny! :p

Don't take the clip out unless you have a new one to replace it with !

You will know if the clip isn't doing it's job as your diff will feel very tight. I found mine was slipping after building the car and it's 1st run on the hall carpet, I had to tighten it to stop the slipping and then the diff felt far too tight - could still slip though..

After a quick run, I lost all drive as the clip failed completely. The diff still feels tight though when it fails, just the drive gear spins freely when the clip goes.

Now I have the Schumacher clip in (looks like a very different kind of metal) it's fine.

I really do think that people who put the clip in the wrong way round will have a problem, if you were lucky and it feels / runs ok, chances are you put it in the right way round !

The only issue i found with mine was the 1.3mm kit pistons were oversized, and sticking in the shock body, once i reduced the diameter it was really good.

Thanks Adam & Chris for all that info :thumbsup:

Hi Adam, I am very confuse here... For the circlip, the flat side should face the thrust bearing or the diff ring side? Thanks for helping out!


QUOTE=Adam Skelding;568102]I'll try and clear a couple of issues up on here:

1. Shocks shafts are correct in the kit. Just make sure you have fitted the rubber bumpstop onto the shock shaft before you fit the rod end.. Also once the spring perch is on there the piston doesn't break the top of the body.

We've had no issues throughout testing with shocks sticking at full compression.

As for the option part page, the 52mm shaft shouldn't be listed there. I'll get it removed today. It's also in the manual...

2. Diff - Circlip. It's best to install the circlip with some good Circlip pliers. It can be rendered useless if you try and force it in... A few tips here to help ensure your diff is built correctly.
a. There are two sides to the clip a flat side and a rounded side. When you install the circlip keep the 'flat' side facing you this way when under pressure from the thrust race the contact faces between the clip and the diff ring are the flat ones.

b. One the circlip is installed. Try to open it out a little either with the circlip pliers you just installed it with. Or insert a large flat blade screw driver between the open ends of the circlip and give the screwdriver a twist, this will open the circlip back out a little removing any 'shrinkage' of the clip on installation.

c. Make sure you put in the diff screw and T-nut in the correct sides. It builds differently to other diffs out there. Don't just build it 'the way you have been building ball diffs for 20 odd years'.

3. Breakages.
Shock Towers
These are always hard ones to justify... Sometimes when you break something you only see the end result of part that has already been weakened. We broke towers in testing and in racing, but TBH they were justified. We have towers from the production batch and the mix is good.

Steering.
Honestly, we never saw a broken one of these during testing, it must have been a really hefty hit.. We even did some testing at Coventry so we know what to expect from the track.[/QUOTE]

The flat side (with the square edge) should face the diff ring/diff balls.

G

The flat or sharp side of the clip should face away from the thrust race and towards the diff gear

Thanks a lot, Northy and Chris! I had the pleasure and pressure:p to make sure I explain correctly in my building report for my fellow Chinese TD fans! Can't wait for the build.:lol:

Flat or sharp indicating it doesn't matter :eh?:

flat or sharp, being the opposite of the rouded edge, its where they are punched out when manufactured. You position the square edge of the clip to the shoulder which is holding it in.

Actually run it today.


All the little niggles forgotten.

Absolutly amazing.

make sure you note the size of the thrush washer outside diameter. One is larger than the other and might be the reason some are having trouble. The smaller one goes in first then the caged thrust then the larger thrust washer then snap ring.

Uhh...Schumacher arrogant?...I think not homie. ANY problem I have had was solved with not more than 1 email. And to be honest since I bought the schueys Ive had maybe 2 problems all year. Both problems solved with new parts mailed within days and Im in the US.

Owned the dex...never heard back from rango ever regarding any problem. Luckily I had a sponsored rango guy with me when I needed something but if it wasnt for him I wouldve junked it. In the end after going through all the issues it worked well....but I probably wont own another rango....just personal preference, Schumacher service has spoiled me. So with that said, Im sorry but anyone that knows schuey customer service knows they're anything but arrogant, and more eager to please than most companies. You're asking how fast Durango jumps on problems and if they send replacement parts quickly because you know well schuey does in that dept....and fast. So to answer your question simply....no. Ive owned everything under the sun, and no company is as quick as schuey. Just a fact.

good luck with your 210...hope it works as well as ur reliable cougar.

Would love to see the RF Suspension holders in Aluminum like the 410 option as I have seen one of these break on a very weak touch of the wall and have read of others breaking this as well.

Not expensive to replace by any means but a PITA to fix.

Mmmm, it would ok to have an alloy block but it would only put stress somewhere else, maybe a wish bone break or a hinge pin bend , you may not notice the hinge pin bend till a re build so it could cause some funny handling .

Just easier to change an arm or hinge pin IMO and the alloy parts on the 410 are a must have.