I had to pay something like 15% tax on a 300 USD RC10 team car in 1991 and the Australian dollar was only valued at half what it is now, I doubt it's had more than 10 packs through it, but I'll be waiting a while until that car is again worth what it cost :P. 10th scale RC is muuuuch cheaper now. The good news is that I might have my B fast diff this week

I noticed today that the Roar legal chassis and other parts for the Short Course truck are out now, see this link

http://www.tcmodels.net/index.php?pa...mart&Itemid=71

And the kit is ready too! I already have 3 cars.....hmmmm....

keep us up to date about the B-fast diff nicefrog! i will order some body parts in the appropriate future, and maybe a diff too.

I've got the B-fast diff in and running, amazing!. I'm so used to being paranoid that the diff is going to slip that it's going to take me a while to get over but this diff is solid as and verrrrrrrrry smooth. I swear there was 8 thrust balls in the kit but the site says there's 6. Anyway I just put in whatever there was so I wasn't counting. It's a very good thing

http://www.bfastrc.com/tqracing.html

I am glad to hear that nicefrog :) Congratulations to your new aquisition! fortunately, now with the stock brushed motor my diff works good too, but I think I also will buy a B-fast :)
So far I didn't get any spares for the Rat, because we will make a common order with the other MadRat owner. I also need a motor plate because mine seems to be bent-BTW, i have sold the gear cover screw problem with using a bit thicker screw.- I think I will buy a B4 FT motor plate with a gear cover, cas it seems to be cheaper for me than ordering something from outside and paying the postage.

guys, I don't want to look stupid, but I think I've just realized that in the B-fast kit i don't get a whole diff..... I don't get the outdrives, not the diff spur gear, and no thrust screw set.... I have to see how much would these cost me if I would get a AE FT set....

Now that I have a diff that wont slip and heaps of traction, I think I need a bigger motor lol. But since I will have the 4wd soon, I will get an ezrun 5.5 turn for that and put my 60amp esc in the 4wd, then get another smaller esc and use that in the truck. I'm very happy with the truck right now, it's got a full set of good screws and a good diff, it's pretty close to being perfect. If there was an RC club here I think it would be very competitive

I am glad you like!
Thank you for finding the error on the web site. There are eight (8)
carbide thrust balls not six (6).
PM me your address and I will send you a little something. :thumbsup:

Fred

Yes, but you have all of this on your mad rat kit :)
I think it worth the money because the ring and the ball of my 2 stock diff kit are dead or almost dead. The only things you need to replace are the ring and the ball, and, of course thrust. The hub, the spur, the screw are good.

Hi Fred, I don't really need any gifts for thanks about the thrust balls on the website, just being able to buy the diff kit is thanks enough, really. I can have a lot of fun driving the car now where before it could end up quite stressful once the diff started slipping :)

Whaou ! A man who dont want gift ! Very fairplay Nicefrog !

Nah, I already got a smooth running diff at a fair price and stickers! what more could you want in life :)?. I was driving the truck at midnight in the rain around the backyard track for 15 minutes with a torch for lighting I was so happy to have it running :). Tomorrow will be the Team C world championships backyard edition now that both cars run again :thumbsup:

Along with my thanks you also have my respect.
Possible to get a photo or two of your cars for the new web site?
If you send please include any credits due (photog, painter ...)
[email protected]

Fred

I could have taken macro pictures step by step of the diff install if you had of asked yesterday, but I hope now I wont have to pull it apart for a while :). I can do pictures of the cars driving and sitting together, however since we are going to be taking some high frame rate, high resolution slow motion videos of them any day now :D, I suspect that may be more awesome so if you can put videos embedded on the site you can use those once they are done. I'll be sure to get the B-Fast stickers stuck on somewhere first before the pictures and video :)

My TC04 is ordered :0, now the long wait for the postman begins. It'll be a while before I can afford to complete it with a nice saddle pack and a good motor and tyres but that gives me some time to consider my options and see what parts everyone else is breaking/wearing so I can order spares :). It'll be the machine to drive around during the Summer once the ground turns to dust and the traction goes away but right now I'm busy trying to wear out the Stadium Truck

hi guys! here's another question :) I've bought today some weights. 1x50g and 4x10g
How should I make a good weight distribution out of theese? adding slowly more and more weight and watching how the car handles? and where to put them? on the servo, on the sides? I know, it depends on the track I will run. But I thought, there is a standard thing which would help in any case. Thanks in advance!

got a new camera today, it's a bit grainy because it was getting dark, oh well will try again tomorrow, heres a clip of my tc02

Yeah nice slowshot video !

Don't you have a too high ride height ?

I don't know, I have the arms set to horizontal, should it be lower?
http://img.skitch.com/20100723-kpt3c...wh15p171x7.jpg

http://img.skitch.com/20100723-8t5nn...9uffjrw3b8.jpg

Yes you are a little too high.
Front is almost good, I personnaly ride with the front arm a little low.

For the rear, the right height is with the bone level, not the arms.

Try it, and you will have more bite front and rear :)

Good tip :) my trucks a bit lower than that I think but I'll check it.
Going realllllly off in the off thread I just bought these E-Revo optional wide dish wheels

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXZRJ7&P=RH

Not for my Team C buggy.... But for my vintage rc10's, I've been looking for months for a wheel with an almost centered offset that will let me run 12mm hex with the hpi hex adapters and use a 2.2 inch buggy tyre, I think finally I've found the magic wheel. Exciting times to finally drive a vintage rc10 with good tyres :)

ok I lowered it, to kedal specifications, track was considerably looser today so it was hard to compare, but it handled well :)

made a new video of it too

New article on my blog :

http://rctouch.over-blog.com/article...-54397108.html

With pics for you Positronic to show you my ride height :)

[EDIT] Yeah, I love your video !! That's awesome to see how the suspension work, very very nice !!
Impressive crash also ! You didnt break anything ?

Could you post your suspension set up and your tires set up please ?

thanks kedal, nope didnt break anything. well cracked my wing guess it had to happen sooner or later, but I just stuck the BFast stickers on it the other day.

My tyres are Jconcepts goosebumps on the rear and carvers on the front, both super soft green compound, the suspension is all stock settings as per manual except the running the inner holes on the front hubs, 50grams lead on front servo, still has the kit oil etc

Bfast diff and 12.9 hardware only things Ive done to it.

Nicefrog broke the hub on the truck today though, ran straight into a boulder :thumbsup:

I'll go read your blog now

edit, my bad the fronts I have a Groovy's just checked.
read the blog you have a lot of good upgrades, whats the idler gear your using? I really need to get the aluminium hexes also

Ok positronic, JConcept make really good tires ;)

I bought the TCModels.net ilder gear, see their website, its cheap, the turnbuckle too !

Still happy with your bfast kit ?

What you mean "12.9 hardware" ??

I'll have to order some more stuff from tcmodels soon, Yep I love the BFast diff havn't had to adjust or worry about the diff at all since I got it

The 12.9 is the grade of the steel

"The lowest grade is 4.6, commonly known as commercial grade. Next comes grade 8.8, known as structural grade, and finally, the highest grade is 12.9, known as high tensile bolts."

They are very strong :)

Oh ok :)
Its the steel you put on the box or into the diff ?

What will you buy at TCModels ?

just all the hex screws in the car, we got them from here http://www.hexcrews.com/index.aspx

Nice blog article Kedal, I liked that, the metal idler sounds much different when running?.

I did break my Stadium Truck on the big Rock :P (In slow motion) It only tore the ball out of the side of the hub, so it was only minor damage.

The good news is my TC04 has been posted and is now somewhere between Hong Kong and Australia, in the end it only cost $150 usd +pp. I need to buy some good quality Hex heads screws for it and some extra shims for the diff. I think I'll make a build thread too since no one has done one yet

Very nice video, and nice blog to kedal.
I'm in holiday, and I can start to built mind.
i don't speak very well englih so see the picture :lol:
http://picasaweb.google.fr/sion.benjamin/XPro#

Jason, pm me your address I will send you some extra shims I have.
Also I havent had any trouble with the kit screws, except for the 2wd/2wdT diff screws (small phillips head) Or are you looking for bling factor...?

I had problems with a couple of the screws on each kit. But I wasn't using a full size hex head to start the thread beforehand and I am now. Still they are soft screws and that annoyed me. I like everything to be as invincible as a mid 90s Associated so I wanted really hard hex head screws, I worked for an engineer for a while so I kinda expect allen bolts/screws to be pretty much unbreakable and rated to grade 12.9 like they are supposed to be. Now every screw in the cars is grade 12.9 including the diff screw and I'm more happy :).

During all this we discovered that a T8? torx bit will grab a worn out 2mm allen head so we've been doing up and removing everything with the torx now and that stops any problem. But still I like the higher grade screws to be in the cars :) at least then I know I can undo them 1000 times without having to need a new one. Is there a part number for the shims, or do they come with the diff gears? if not I'll take you up on the offer but we are doing a tcmodels order soon so a part number will work :)

I crashed the Stadium truck full speed into a boulder the other day and riped one of the turnbuckles and balls out of the hub :) I've "done a zagonielod" and super glued it for the moment :) The buggy still refuses to break anything.... ever and that's been barrel rolled 10 meters down the track 200 times

where do you get those screws nicefrog?

Good news for me : I win an auction on ebay to buy a used Tekin RS, 90€, 96€ shipped from France.
Shipped tomorrow :)

But I now need a good capacitor... looking for a good one during this week.

ouch! good for you my friend :) congratulations! you hardly could want more than a Tekin RS.

the screws were from http://www.hexcrews.com/index.aspx

they don't have a set though, we had to put each screw in the cart, took ages.

I stripped a couple of those shallow countersunk ones that hold the front bumper/skid on when building the kit. Really if your'e having no problem with the screws there is no need to replace them

All the screws on hexcrews are 12.9 ? Looks a bit difficult to navigate on the site...

your'e right it's not the easiest site to navigate, they sell 12.9 and 12.9 AP (armour plated)

short vid Of nicefrogs truck

Nice. The tekins a nice unit:)