That's all I've found so far:)

Hopefully be building this weekend then!! Got mine coming from mb not had a shipping email hopefully tomorrow 😁

The weight of mine

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f783221dd6.jpg2019-05-16_07-31-13 by matt barton, on Flickr

Matt. it is disappointing that they knew about the rubbing of the L1 rear arms in low diff position from the KC rear end mod, which I have done, and all they did to rectify this was to warn people they would have to remove material off the arm because they don't want the expense of modifying the mould tool very slightly. :(:(:(

Yes that my feeling to but I'm sure someone will tell me I'm wrong. Other than the piston looking a bit daft with a counter sunk screw head sticking out of them it's a really nice kit.

One of the team drivers in our club had terrible trouble with the screws backing out of the shafts in his shocks, make sure the thread is immaculately clean and a dab of thread lock, but on a 2mm thread and amount of threadlock if it engages well is gonna be a bee ach to get out after, think I'd rather the circlips myself....

I would love the gearbox assy though to throw on my KC, but the L1 rear end has made the car drive awesome in pos 4 spec.

Yes I degrease mine and left them for a bit to set before filling with oil. The gear box is nice and I may get one to fit to my kc to.

not gonna release one as an upgrade I already asked them, separate parts you might as well buy the full buggy lol.

Yes but one new car I can get away with buying, a few upgrades for a car over time and I'm good with that. Also it doesn't have to be the entire rear end just the gear box.

Expensive way to build the gearbox atm, lots of little bits that you need to get, without adding it up fully I recon you'd be looking north of £100 easily.

Yeah I think it will be around that but I've got a ball diff already so that offsets it s little as will be a wet car.

Also if you want to save some more keep an eye out for a kd gearbox as most of the internals fit the laydown.

Just looked now and lots of the KC internals fit the Laydown but not looked at the screws and got to 135 quid :o

still tempting though.

It's doable but it's down to you if you want to spend the money on it.

Cougar Laydown arrived this morning :thumbsup:
So wish i had booked the day of work so i can start building.

share advice please

thanks

I am waiting for the kit to arrives. In the meantime I am wondering why there is no chance to get sway bars mounted on the rear. I cannot say in the front but at least in the rear.

Any advice please?

thanks

build tip
 

When building the car, start with the shock pistons, then they have time for the thread lock to set. apart from that, the car is a really good build

Mine should be here In The next hour desks cleared ready to build

This is very good advice.

U7658

https://www.rccarshop.co.uk/?keyword..._category_id=0

You can fit sway bars to the front and rear.

As a relative newbie can someone tell me what the X brace conversion does handling wise and/or what type of track is it for.

My Cougar Laydown arrived at my home in the morning (in France).
Too late to drive tomorrow with on my regional FFVRC race. I'll ride it quietly in the week to try it next weekend.
In the meantime I will still use my old Cougar SV2 which still does the job well.

https://media.joomeo.com/medium/5cdfc867e2480.jpg

:):thumbsup:

Attached screen shot from manual. Stiffens chassis flex and five more steering so prob more suited to high grip, but I have seen it used on rubberised cork floor

Cheers, never saw that in the manual, must remember to look through it cover to cover :lol:

I see that Orlowski didn’t run the laydown car in the some of the rounds of the latest EOS, did he go back to the KC for the wet conditions or is there a standup version of the Cougar being tested?

He ran the KD in the first couple of rounds

I'm getting a good amount of binding on the front camber mount with the captive ball joints.. the only way I can stop the binding is having the ball joint on the camber mount loose anyone else have this issue??

Have you used the ball stud washers

Yeah as sheet shows the arms are OK level with the bulk head any lower than the bulk head they bind?

Check it's the ballstud shims, they're made out of iron so use a magnet.

Is it the ball joints or the arms?

Ive just built one for a mate. I found the arms are tight around the inner hinge pins, a moulding issue, and the "C" hubs are tight once the clip is fitted.

I just got a craft knife into the recesses at the bulkhead where the arms fit in, just a little scrape and everything moved freely

It's definitely the ball joints. as soon as they tighten they bind when they are loose it's all free
Basically if you sit the car down on the table no wheels on
The arms hinge up and down perfect
if the arms go any lower than the hinge pins it binds

I had already cleaned the bulk head out with a knife to fit the arms its not that

I'll finish the build and have another mess with it 👍🏻

Has anyone else noticed the amount of play in the gearbox diff housings when its put together??

Play where Iain? Can’t say I noticed any excessive play anywhere in mine.

Yes I have noticed some movement when the differential is fitted into the transmission housing. I have followed the instructions and used one shim on each side of the diff and fitted the bearings into the eccentric housings but once fitted to the transmission housing there is about 1.5 - 2mm of side ways movement.
I have two spare shims of the same size which were in a different pack, I don't know what these are for?

It's only when using the gear diff, it seems the bearings are a bit loose on the gear diff, just put the ball diff in and its fine

The manual addendum says to fit the 4 shims.