Had first run with my new 22.3 tonight and was very impressed.
very easy to drive, feels very smooth and its really quiet.
Ran as per manual but with 27.5wt oil in front shocks

I had a 22 when they first came out, and its great to see how much the car has been improved. would like to see the 4wd get sorted or new 4wd get done to this standard
looking forward to getting better with it

Really nice shell by Pro-Line Racing:

http://www.prolineracing.com/images/.../3467-00-2.jpg

Now I'll have to get a 22 3.0 for sure, either as an "away" car so that I can leave my YZ-2 set-up for my home track as it is, or at least for running in the wet.

If I was brave enough (Mrs might go nuts!) to get a modern car, I would like a 3.0
The kit shell looks blinkin awful to my eyes, but that is much better!

Jconcepts S2 - TLR 22 3.0

(best pic I could find)

https://www.jconcepts.net/sites/defa...08_800px-1.jpg


More pics of the Proline shell

http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...-1-620x298.jpg
http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...-2-620x242.jpg

might have to purchase the proline shell.

that proline shell is lovely

Finished mine and super excited to run it. Excuse the dodgy edges on the painting my guy was busy so I had to do it myself :p

Whats everyone doing with battery layout? Iv wired mine so I can have the shorty in any position and also so I can run saddles. Ive started off with the shorty in the forward position.

Fully forward seems to be working well for me on Astro and Carpet. I get the feeling that on really high bite it might be better off sitting more central. But not taken it out on anything really high bite yet.

Some of you may know of the CF style chassis protectors by Martin Hoffend for the Yokomo line of cars. Meanwhile they are also available in a variety of colours for the B5M and of course the 22 3.0. Here is the bottom of my new built TLR buggy with the blue version:
https://scontent-amt2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...6b&oe=5798B1CF

If you are interested in getting one for any of the above cars, feel free to contact Martin on facebook!

Ooooh that's pretty. :woot:

This screen shot of the manual (page 34) shows a gear chart which suggests a 70t Spur and 25t Pinion

Hope this helps.

Proline
 

Recieved and sprayed up my new Proline shell yesterday. 100% better than the kit shell.

Yeah it's so much better. I'm masking mine up now.

I was tired of waiting and am currently waiting for my painter to finish an S2 lightweight. Not sure whether to buy the Predator, although I really like it. I tend to sell cars for which I have accumulated a certain amount of bodyshells. ;)

Oh Exotek......you make some nice things

http://www.exotekracing.com/losi-tlr/

http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server14...00.200.JPG?c=2
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server14...00.200.JPG?c=2
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server14...00.200.JPG?c=2
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server14...00.200.JPG?c=2
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server14...00.200.JPG?c=2

And here's the TLR Hop-Up page.....

http://www.horizonhobby.co.uk/autoon...-3-hopups.html


http://www.horizonhobby.co.uk/autoon.../tlr331016.jpg
http://www.horizonhobby.co.uk/autoon.../tlr334028.jpg
http://www.horizonhobby.co.uk/autoon.../TLR334020.jpg
http://www.horizonhobby.co.uk/autoon.../TLR334014.jpg

And much, much more on the way for the car too

Also don't forget that many of Exotek's existing TLR and 22 options will also fit the 3.0 as well

Hi,

On winter plan to race this indoor on tight carpet track.

Besides kit, what is a must for this car to be as competitive as possible?
I'm advanced racer, this is my 5th season outside and will be 3rd on carpet inside.
I plan to put 7.5 motor in it or a bit slower. we have 11-14sec laps, track is different each time.

Is laydown conversion a must - does it gives as much advantage as it costs?

Please advise.

Thanks in advance.

Hi Janisdaubergs,

I run the Exotek gearbox on one of my 22 3.0's and indoors it makes a big difference, the car carries much more corner speed and allows the car to rotate faster, I cant give you a speed comparison as I havent got any lap times to hand but using the normal 3 gear upright the car feels great outside or in the damp/wet but in high grip I feel the laydown is needed. the normal gearbox tends to wallow abit.

I was/am running a 7.5t with the brass bulkhead and HRC mod I think stiffer front springs (black, blue or green cant remember which) rear was kit springs, I was also running on Venom rear tyres and reduced the rear toe in to 2.5 degrees to help take some rear grip away

http://www.redrc.net/2016/07/jconcep...lds-bodyshell/

Woo, a bodyshell that covers the laydown without being paper thin!

Courtesy of Neil :)

In stock now too in both standard and lightweight versions..

And it DOES fit the Exotec gearbox, but DON'T use the marked layshaft position it'll be out by about 5mm, I cut mine long to the front chassis line for a better fit and left more around the spur for more coverage, I also trim the front as the kit shell but that was just personal taste.:thumbsup:

Any pics of it please? :)

Not easy picking up cut lines on a bad phone camera,

Does anyone have a picture of how some of the team guys have modified the front pivot block and kick shim so the kick shim fits under the pivot block as per the setup sheets on tlracing.com

Also what is the idea behind doing this modification?

Frank Root did a live vid feed showing how it was done a while ago on FB group Team Losi Racing.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/560084807384436/

HTH

Brett

Cheers, although I can't actually find a video!!

Maybe you could message Frank on fb, he seems to be a good dude and always willing to help.

I need a setup fot the laydown trans for a high grip carpet track. I've lot of grip rolls.
:blush:

I've just fitted the lay down conversion but I'm struggling with the rear hubs

I've put the bullstud in the hole in the instructions with the 2mm spacer but it runs through the hub and rubs against the dirveshaft meaning it won't turn what am I doing wrong???

If I remember rightly you need a shorter thread on the hub ballstud.

Wonderful what a rip off

I swapped the ball studs on the hub with those on the inner camber link - yes they are too long on the inside but they don't catch on anything and it saves buying new ball studs!

Yeah got that of rctech all sorted thanks

My drive shafts were nearly hanging out tho guess that's just my turnbuckles