Is anyone using a chassis protection? If so where did you get it. thanks

nope, no one makes one for it to my knowledge

We use a skin from JConcepts. I just drew around the chassis and cut out. It's slightly thicker than most skins and works well. Link below, but unfortunately out of stock.

http://www.dms-racing.com/index.php?...ategory_id=512

Another option could be the AE version, link below. I've not used this one and you may need to check measurements first if it will fit, but same principle.

http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ive-sheet.html

Cheers,
Jase

Brill thanks mogs

gutted the JC one isnt in stock

Just thought I'd give me opinion on the shocks binding.. I've played around a lot with different O-Rings in the process of building mine up, and I came to the conclusion that there is nothing wrong with the kit O-Rings or Shock Shafts for that matter. The issue of the shocks binding is due to the O-Ring and Spacer proportions within the shock body, removing the middle shim between the two O-Ring's isn't an option unless you want to risk the shocks leaking. I simply ended up sanding 0.2mm off of the middle spacer in order to reduce stiction of the O-Rings once the retaining nut is cranked down. This then provides perfectly free action which should potentially be leak free! My shocks certainly feel like butter now, and all you need is about 5 minutes, some fine sand paper on a flat surface and a decent sent of digital calipers :)

If your worried about sacrificing the kit delrin washers in case you remove too much material, don't forget that you get the molded washers on a plastic molding provided with your kit, I sanded these one's down to keep the original delrin washers unmodified :)

It was never said that there is a problem as such with them. Just that there was binding. I have now chosen to run the kit shaft, with AE x rings, kit spacer, and the avid/AE shock bottoms. Testing last night felt awesome and no leeks or air have seeped out or in over night. Assuming this is still the case when I get home tonight this will be my long term fix.

I have tried the slimmer spacer, but that is not a viable thing when you are trackside doing a rebuild and drop one. You then waste time trying to find sandpaper to do another etc.

The ae x rings are by far the best feel I've found yet. Better than the kyosho mod I first tried and have been running. Plus they are perfect width for the body - better than the kit orings even. Coupled with the correct shock bottom for them they seem to be spot on and feel the best of anything I've tried so far. And no modifications of parts required.

The other added bonus is if you use the avid collars and bottoms, they match the Ali hinge pin holders. Black with silver edging.

do the AE orings not work with the kit shock bottoms?

Im buiding my sons evo tomorrow and want to get it built correctly

Also is everyone running AE springs? are they the 4wd set (dont mean to sound stupid but assuming is wrong lol been bitten too many times assuming one thing or another)

I agree with Steve, nothing wrong with the shocks at all. For me I always replace kit Orings regardless of kit. I've done it with AE cars, Yokomo etc. The Evo was no different, installing AE Xrings from the start and had no issues since. My current 2wd is a B5M so hence trying AE Xrings first :)

Pretty much any Big Bore springs will fit. I use AE again just because my previous car was AE, but I've got Yoke and Kyosho springs to try one day.
For me currently, AE Green Rear and Red fronts. I've not changed the fronts at all yet, but sometimes drop to Black Rears depending on oils.

Last weekend I did try an extreme change to 700cst Front oil and 600cst Rear, but although the car was still fantastic, will drop this down by 100cst both F&R next time as I prefer a little softer on our astro track.

As Chris and Steve have already mentioned, the car is awesome :thumbsup:

Cheers,
Jase

Cheers moggers,

we have 2 b5ms, i think ive a set of AE orings too. Mark Redmond has just built his and will be running at our club tonight, I think hes gone softer on the shock oil but harder springs (think yatabe)

im flapping about what oils to use all round as no1 (at least i think no1) has gone with full kit setup.

I want to get it all setup and ready for chadderton on the 11th
(is anyone doing chadderton? please share the setup youll be using, also what tyres will you be using?)

thanks

I dont know how thick AE standard o-rings are im afraid. It is the low friction X-Rings i am using. I tried them with the kit shock bottom and didnt like it, was a bit too compressed for my liking. with the AE (Avid) shock bottoms they are perfect.

I am waiting to check them tonight for air, but i am expecting this to be the route i will suggest if asked about it.

With regards springs, i didnt try the kit ones, but they seemed ok if a little soft. Yatabe springs didnt feel good on this car. I loved them on the YZ2 and the Xray XB4, but the S104 is much much better on AE springs.

AE springs fit fine, but overhang the collars very slightly. I am running the Avid collars which fit the sworkz body perfectly.

As this car hasbt been raced at Chadderton there is no 'setup' yet as such.

My advice would be to build the car just as it shows it in the manual for now but get the shocks and diffs in the ballpark. As you know following Steve's advice I've gone down the Kyosho shaft and ORing route and found the car to be good. Even if another brand of ORing may be better until I feel it's slowing me down I will be sticking.

Don't worry about Setup for now Paul just make sure the car is built to the best of your capabilities and that everything moves freely. I found that the standard setup creates a fairly neutral feeling car so will be in the ballpark. I would still go with 600cst oil up front with 400 in the rear to begin with. I've been running lighter diff oils than most but would poss increase the rear diff oil on slippy to keep the rear end more planted on power.

At Chadderton you will want Schumacher yellow minipins front and rear but I suggest scrubbing them in by driving the car on Tarmac for a minute or so before the meeting as they are rubbish until the contact patch is increased.

There is no such thing as a magic setup in RC, run the car and make small changes one at a time. No setup will ever outdo practice and a confidence in your car.

Chris

It's good to know about the compatibility with AE shock parts, especially the spring collars because the stock one's are a little sloppy with AE springs. I can't say I agree with your logic about changing out o-rings and shock bottoms simply because 'You might drop one', how does this make it worth spending another £23 on parts which you otherwise don't need?! Although having said that if you did want the bling, then that's fair enough! At the end of the day the lower part of the shock isn't something you'd ever typically disassemble at the track, assuming your shocks are built correctly and properly maintained that is. If you really are that clumsy though just have a few spare one's done in advance, after all you do get 4x extra in the kit!

I'm just trying to reassure people who've bought the kit, or who are thinking about buying the kit that they don't NEED to go out and blow £23 on parts to make what they have work, the shocks will function fine with the kit o-rings and simply sanding the middle spacer from 1.0mm to 0.8mm.

My reason for changing the orings and shock bottoms is because that's what I have found to give the best shock. Not because I might drop a spacer. I said the spacer sanding wasn't a solution for me. If I bend a shaft then I rebuild the whole thing. I personally don't want to have to think about having spacers sanded down.

The kit shocks are fine. They are actually very smooth, but there is binding present which affects the rebound.

People don't have to go and buy anything. They will use whatever solution they want. All I have said is that I've now tried everything I can think of and the best feel comes from the ae x rings with the avid shock bottoms, with all other parts being kit. In all honesty they feel better than AE or yz2 shocks in this configuration.

changing direction, should we have a show us your evo thread, I'd like to see all your car's :) building haydens tomorrow and need to choose a colour way for the car

Hi everyone, I've been racing the 8th Nitro Sworkz EVO 2 this year and I have been a Team Driver for Pete at Answer-rc ever since Pete started Answer-RC. After a chat with Pete I will now be running the Sworkz 10th electric cars along side my Nitro. I think the Quality of the cars are as good as anything else out there, and they are a company who is constantly looking to improve, with an already top standard of quality, but also in race performance!

This weekend I ran the S104 EVO for the first time indoors on high grip carpet. The clubs I raced at use Foam Tyres with Additive, so the grip level is very high!

First time on track with it, and Wow! this car accelerates hard! real hard! I started with 1 million weight in the center diff, but this gave way to much drive. So swapped the diff out for 300K, it was now a lot easier to put the power down, but still 'very' punchy! The car has steering everywhere! Slow, Mid and high speed steering! The Evo also likes the transfer weight front to rear a lot especially on power, causing the car to lift the front corner wheel and squat down on the opposite rear wheel, if you had any steering input while on power. It jumps and lands extremely well, and felt safe and predictable enough through speed bumps. I set my fastest PB time on the current track layout, but I just felt with more setup work and time, I know there is a lot more to come from the car.

Second Day/time out with the car, again on Foams and high grip carpet. This time I made a number of changes to the car, I wanted to calm the car down a little on steering, and try to get the front wheel to stop lifting and the rear squatting as much. Diff oil's I changed to Front 20k, Centre 100k, Rear 15k. Shocks 1.5 piston front & rear with 45wt front 30wt rear. Yatabe Purple springs all round. 1.5mm roll bar front and 1.6mm rear. I also cut 2mm off the back of the arms to gain a longer wheelbase. On the front upper roll centre, I ran the front insert up and the rear insert down, this helped take away some of the in corner bite. I also ran a shorter rear top link.

The car was now much easier to drive and I could push it a lot harder! It still has loads of steering and corner speed, but it never tried to grip roll. The car is still trying to Transfer it's weight, but nowhere near as much. The stiffer springs and roll bar have helped, and I think the car prefers a stiffer setup, I'm trying to find some 'Flat' pistons to try, as I think the tapered pistons may be why the weight shifts so fast. In the next few weeks I will be running it on mixed carpet and slippy floor with rubber tyres, so will up date my findings! Please drop me a PM if you have an questions :thumbsup:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...psuxxurge3.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...pslaiwulsv.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...psmmnaa0n7.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...psguptqvdr.jpg

Cool interesting to see you also find the longer wheelbase better. For high grip, or carpet and astro in general I think it is a must. The car is much better and squats down much less under power.

Last weekend it was first time on track with my S104 evo.
Our track is small tight 100% carpet track, with small edgy ramps.
Build the car full stock, except springs I put AE hard ones.
At shocks removed plactic spacer between o-rings to make shocks more free.
Shock oils where 600cst/400cst, diff oils 20k/1M/10k
Ride height 16mm front and 17mm rear

Car was very easy to drive, I`m not a pro driver, so I managed to flip it over several times, but I have never so many times cached the car when it trys to flip over...run on two wheels for a time and then sattle it back to all four...I have seen how pro`s do it... I thought that is impossible...mega skills necessary, but now with this car I can also be like a pro :D

This firs practice day I enjoyed and just drived, not experimented with setup, but still some things where need improvements:
1. Car was a bit understeer, any ideas how to reduce it?
2. The same as others said, car squats a little to much, and it probably makes understeer...
3. Stock wing... could it be a reason for understeer, as its with high downforce.. which other wing you can advice?
4. For our track also my shock setup seemd to be a bit to stiff/hard, because on to pass small edgy rams the car feels very stiff... I plan to change oils to a bit lighter...actualy I dont know when springs and when oils must be changed to lighter or to stiffer... so here also some advice necessary :)

Above you said that longer wheel base could help to avoid squating, so some mm of rear arms are removed- do you remove those mm just at inside hinge pin, or also at outside?

1 - Hard to say without knowing your full setup and tyres. There are many ways to improve the steering. If you are running full kit i would start by adding some anti squat.

2 - the shorter you run the wheelbase the less weight is over the front of the car, it will squat more at the rear and also accelerate harder. By going longer wheelbase you reverse that, putting more weight forwards, squatting less and therefore more on power steering.

3 - Wing wise, the kit wing is fine, just cut it down until you have the desired downforce for your preferred feel.. I personally prefer to run a standard lexan wing.

With regards to the wheelbase mod, you want to remove from the rear of the arm only. I removed 3mm, as that is what i thought lined the shocks up best, but i see Mark has removed 2mm.

Tires where only thing I was tried several options - Mini pin blue and Yellow as rear ones and Mini pin blue and Wide stugger yellow as front ones in any combination it still pushed car a bit to much.

Standard lexan wing - which is it? I have sandard plastic wing :)

Abour rear arm mod- so I need to remove both at inner and at outer side of rear arm, right?

If running wide staggers on the front and pins on the rear you will need to remove grip from the rear. Check my setup posted the other day as these are the tyres i was running. I raised the rear hinge pin, moved the shocks and rear link.

When i said standard lexan wing, i meant any generic lexan wing. Sworkz dont make one at the moment.

Rear arm mod, sorry i miss read you original question. You only need to remove plastic from the inside hinge pin area. No need to remove anything from where the rear hub attaches.

Hi hardijs, I think the 1 Million in the centre is to heavy, try coming down to 200k. Also try coming down on shock oil's to 300cst rear / 500cst front, Run the shocks in the outer hole on the arms. I would keep the heavier springs on, especially on the rear. Keep the pistons as 1.5 all round, running a bigger hole rear piston will give more steering and a little better straight line bump handling, but it will also make the car want to squat even more! Your ride height looks ok. after making the changes, and if you still need more steering, come down to 10k in the front diff.

The rear arms, your taking the 2mm away from the inner pin side, as per my photo above.

Hope this is of some help, let us know how you get on. :thumbsup:

Silly question, but for those who are using associated springs (front mainly)
Are you using the 2 or 4wd ones... ive seen some that look like theyre short so assumed theyd be 2wd ones

the big bore springs are for both 2wd and 4wd. no specific springs for either

Thanks Steven, Ive plenty of AE springs from our b5m's to give them a try then

Thank you Steve! will try it all on this weekend and will give a feedback ;)

Hi Mark,
Thanks for advices!
Will try lighter oils, but diff oils will keep the same, as we have limited track avilability, as its build at gym and removed after every meeting.
So this Sunday is the last practice before the first indoor stage, so the main thing I need is practice-track time, as it will be my first 1/10 4wd buggy season (I have driven 1/8 buggy outdoors, but not on high grip, so here is a quite big difference how to drive) at the moment I think that car is much better already with existing setup than my driving skill, so will change just those things which I can quickly swich back while motor will cool down, so compare mine feeling.

And 1M at center diff - I liked that car is like a rocket, I guess lighter center diff oil will reduce cars punch abilities...

Next week will let you know how the changes worked.
Will try also post some pictures, as this car not only drives great, but also looks fantastic :thumbsup:

I would agree with Mark on the centre diff. I tried 1mil on Sunday and it was too agressive so went back to 500k. You will also get a better steering response with a lighter centre diff

ok, will cut 15-20min from my race time and will change diff oils at center diff, to check how it drives with 1M and 500k.
What about rear diff- now I have at front 20k and at rear 10k, Mark said Front 20k and Rear 15k... can you feel difference between 15k an10k at rear? As when I turned them at hand they felt so similar... 20k and 10k. At 1/8 buggy diffs 10k difference is very remarkable, but here it was just a little difference..almost none...at least at my hands :D

i also run 20 and 15 at the moment.
found it much better than 8 or 10 in the rear

I started with 10k front and 7k rear, but found the car to feel inconsistent, at 20k fr and 15k rr, the car felt alot more balanced with Front to rear grip. With 1 million in the centre diff, you couldn't feed the throttle in how I wanted and the car was almost popping wheelies. Running a softer centre diff let me use the power more on flowing and slow corners.

Thanks for the info Mark. I've been running 1million in the centre diff but as you say it's a bit aggressive on throttle, not uncontrollable but could be a factor in causing a little on power push. I will give the 500k a try for next time.

Ran my car indoor on carpet at West Bridgford at the weekend and could have been doing with a softer centre diff then. Didn't fancy trying to change the crazy thick oil trackside though.


Chris

How did you get on chris

Did ok but my driving was a little inconsistent early on so took me a few runs to get on pace.

Qualified 2nd overall but with time pressing on and Nottingham Forest's match finishing shortly before I was due to race the final I decided to not race the final and head home as I didn't want to be stuck in traffic for hours on end.

Made minor changes such as going to 4wd cut staggers on the front and softening the front spring and stiffening the rear. Car was decent but would probably benefit from a lighter centre diff oil as said earlier.

For the next meeting I will increase my F/R diff oils also.. Not sure when I will be racing next however as I'm busy for the coming weeks.


Chris

Just one question with 1M in the middle diff as you intended

Do you mean 1.000.000 cst (1000k) or 100.000 cst (100k)

1000k That's very high. You'll then need a spoon to use it

Yeah that's right 1million cst diff oil it's incredibly thick and you do need a wrench or spoon to put in the diff half.

I'm going to be trying 500,000cst next time which is half the weight


Chris

Hayden ran kit setup last night 5k front and back 100 centre, 500 front an rear shocks, stock springs, Mark setup the camber, toe etc. 1st heat the 10.5 esc and motor popped so took the speed passion reventon 8.5 combo out of his b5m and put it in the evo, no further issues. Hayden finds the car really easy to drive, he went 2nd in heat 2 (I think...may be 3rd behind Anna) then won heat 3. That put him P1 for Bfinal, missed out on A final by less than a second. He started 1st and finished 1st, very consistent lap times too. He pulled away massively infield but we have some rumble strips and weird jumps all put together, if hayden put any power down here he flipped (rear end was too hard for the bumps) so slowed right down there, next time we are going to try a lot lighter oil in the rear dropping down from 500 (kit) to 300. Doing that tonight ready for chadderton tomorrow.

Hayden raced at chadderton today, unfortunately only finished 2 heats(1&3)... heat 1 was fine but car still had 500 front and back pill along with roll bars.... took them off which was miles better, with them on the back flipped up on the little bumps, roll bar off and this stopped happening ... on the 13th laps with a few minutes to go Hayden broke a control arm, I didn't have any spares so glued it back together.... this held for heat 3, he did alright but wasnt pushing cos he knew he had a broken arm bur managed to finish... heat 4... car ok the line..wouldn't set off... closer inspection a wire had come off the motor... final came round he managed 3 laps when the glue gave up and retired

here's a video from one of heats https://youtu.be/qbebXztexsk

A few who were watching had said the car looks good but was a little loose, so will follow Marks advice and soften the oil in the rear shocks for next time

Rear looks skatey. Drop the rear hinge pins down if ure still on kit setup. Will allow it to roll more and give more rear side grip

steven the rear hinge pins set to down/down on the back

ok where are the rear link positions and shock positions?