Looks good James :thumbsup:

Im looking forward to running mine tomorrow at York!

KF2
 

Hi James, see at York with your new car. Lee

I have a daft question; I want to use shorty packs so I'm building using the low grip conversion option, but the belt doesn't seem long enough? The manual say's belt 103T but the belt in the kit has s3m309 stamped on it. Am I doing something wrong or should I uses the kit belt?

Use the belt in the Low Grip kit that is included in the box, it's the only bag that has the Schumacher card on the top. Make sure you've got the motor mount in the rear set of holes, not the ones shown in the instruction manual and follow the instructions that are in with the low grip kit.

Kit belt is only used when you have the motor mount in the forward set of chassis holes.

Hope this helps,
James.

=Muzzie;897993]I have a daft question; I want to use shorty packs so I'm building using the low grip conversion option, but the belt doesn't seem long enough? The manual say's belt 103T but the belt in the kit has s3m309 stamped on it. Am I doing something wrong or should I uses the kit belt?[/QUOTE]

Sorted cheers

Hi guys.

I've been racing buggies and other stuff on and off over the years and picked up a KF2 yesterday to get back into it :thumbsup:

I'm well out of date with the tech stuff, I'll be racing indoor on AstroTurf and would like to learn how to build the car, as per kit or with adjustments? The manual says 2k diff oil but I know some of the guys at my club with other cars run 5k. I'm looking at a 7.5t motor, so what gearing? Also what's this saddle or shorty pack for low grip etc all about? :blush:

Cheers!

Can someone tell me if the old side gears will fit the new car? Also is it not necessarily to run the extra weight with the new car now then? Also are any of the team guys running the graphite chassis? Or is everyone sticking with the alloy one regardless of conditions? Thanks

I would build in std kit form to start with and use the low grip chassis option. 24 or 25T pinion with a 7.5 motor. Diff oil wise I've never used anything less than 10,000wt and on very high grip astro indoor I run 20,000wt.

In the kit you have 2 options for battery types, saddle packs or the new style of battery is the shorty and I would recommend going for this option.

Regards,
James.

Not sure if the side gears would fit, why would you want to run the old spec gears?

I ran the car today without any extra weight and is was excellent, all the team drivers today used the kit chassis as most will.

James.

Some people (like me) may want to use the high inertia side gears for low grip conditions, and as at the moment there isn't any options available for these and/or already have these hence the question I suspect.

Yes that is correct. I use them for tuning quite a lot. In fact I thought it was the best tuning option on the old car, and I for one will not be upgrading until the new car has this option.

My builds all complete but here's a few progress photos before I got that :) And what a great build it was! The quality of the parts is bonkers.

Main chassis assembled
http://i.imgur.com/qSNG3gy.jpg

SkyRC/Speed Passion power plant
http://i.imgur.com/kESueWo.jpg

Converted the front to take wheels with bearings, seeing as I have loads and they're YELLOW :D
http://i.imgur.com/38wXYh6.jpg

Rest to follow this week :)

Thank you!

So I'll order a Savox 1258, should I get an upgrade servo horn? I must admit I haven't looked in the kit properly yet but I assume the one that comes with it is plastic?

I'd be interested to know some of the top guys feedback on additional weight. Looks like the Trishbits side weights still fit beneath the new slipper housing looking at Lloyd Storeys car from the weekend.
Anyone know the weight of the car fully loaded in shorty config?

I picked mine up on Friday but haven't started the build yet. Couple of questions for those that have:

1) does the v2 rear suspension kit from the KF1 fit?
2) how are people setting anti-squat at the rear? (high front low rear?)
3) are the titanium turnbuckles worth it? If so is it strength or lightness or both? I never used them on the v1
4) I ran the svr drive shafts on the kf1, are the new ones looking longer than the original kf1's or do I need to use these again?

Do you guys place the extra shims in the diff or build as per kit and adjust feel with oil weight only?

Has anyone got a picture of the side guards dremeled? How much do you have to remove?

kf
 

I cannot understand why people would spend £280 on a car and have to use a dremel to get the battery in poor design if u ask me what happened to the tm2 v2 muzz

There is a lot to like about the new KF2 but I do feel that the hinge pin braces do not look like they have pill adjustments which I think is a shame and this also means you cannot change the toe in at the rear without a different rear brace. At least you can do anti squat changes by using washers underneath the braces. With the alloy hangars on the K1 and KF this was great to have so much adjustment which I feel has been lost a little.

Built as per kit, didn't need the extra shims.

James.

1. Yes
2. As instructions.
3. Std ones are fine, I've broken Ti ones but never these latest kit ones.
4. Sorry I'm no help on this one.

Regards,
James.

Just thought I'd have a change and this is what happen when you walk into Pbm for tyres and there is a shiny new box saying "buy me":lol:

I'm keeping the TM2 v1 and If I dont like it I can sell it and get a new TM2 :thumbsup:.

The build quality of the KF2 is amazing and very well engineered, I just hope the parts are as robust. My only issue it the dremeling. I'm keen to see how it goes on Wed....

4) SVR/KR CVD driveshafts fit the KF2 fine, just as they do the KF.

Thanks for the answers guys

Here you go.

I run a weight under my shorty and my lrp are slightly swollen so I've had to dremel quite a lot!

Crikey, I was going to run shortys but not sure I want to massacre my chassis. Saddles it may have to be!

It's only the plastic side rail and hardly a massacre.

Here's a picture of mine built, I may need to trim more off the side rail as the shorty is still a bit tight.

What shock oil have people used?

I've put the kit shock oil in the rear (it doesn't look or feel like 35WT) and 37.5WT in the front.

I'm running core oils,

Low grip 450/350 rear.
High grip 550/450 rear.

James.

I ran the car (indoor carpet) for the first time last night and I have to say the car felt good, a bit edgy and very direct. It felt easier to drive the harder I pushed – This is good

Things I changed from kit:

30 wt / 350 in the rear shock 37.5 / 450 in the front
Short wheel base
Rear Shock on the outer hole on the wish bone

However, I did suffer from what we call at my club as the ‘Schumacher curse’. This is the third car I’ve built but the first car to fall apart. It may have been me being a gentleman sausage, but I have now brought some industrial strength lock tight LOL.

So for people who have never built a Schumacher before remember; lock tight, lock tight, lock tight……

Question – Can’t get the ride height on the rear any lower then 20mm?

You need the alloy spring seats to get rear ride height bellow 20mm.
Not ideal I know but it's how the team do it!

If you're going to use some threadlocker don't go to mad with it. If it's Loctite the second number in the three digit product code will tell you how strong it is, if it's 221 or 222 this is low strength, if it's 24 something this is medium and more than you'll ever need on an RC model, if it's 27 something then let's just call it permanent fixture and you'll need heat to release it.

I personally use 248 which comes in a nice Pritt Stick type applicator which makes it much easier to control how much you apply. You can get it from Halfords.

Thanks for the advice :thumbsup:

There are a lot of variables that go into this. I've run mine down to 17mm with std shock cups, but I run zero rebound in the dampers. I'm also on soft springs which are going to sag a bit more.

With the V2 alloy gearbox uppers you can also modify the shock tower height which affects the min ride height.

Wingers

I have built several Schumachers and have never used thread lock on any of them and never had a part fall over either, The red stuff they put in the kit is super strong so be warned if you want to get things a part in a rush.

The blue stuff from loctite is a much softer version so try that if you must, better to just keep things tight especially after a crash as this stretches the screws which then become lose.

:eh?:

With the KF you could run with the rear suspension in either low or high position or a mixture of the two with the alloy blocks, will we be able to shim the suspension hangers to achieve this? And where is the KF2 stock setting compared to the KF's high and low positions?

Strange your if findings, I'm not sure what the stuff is in the Schumacher bottles but as a general rule of thumb for threadlock red is low strength (221 etc) blue is medium (243 etc) and green is high strength (270).