Im using 2mm spacers under the ballstuds on the front bulkhead.

I used losi black front and pink rears last sunday,car felt good but maybe a little stiff,next time out i will be starting with blue front/yellow rears

Ta very mucha's so shall I order them then Blue f/yellow r then

Jason
Thanks for the update on the shells, just ordered ;)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hobao-H2-P...item3f20af4243

i think ull find you can put the motor plate on whichever side you like. you just need to run the layshaft the other way.

Seeing as it is a durango box, i set mine to be the same side as the rango when using 4 gear gearbox

sorry to butt in, just joined the site. im looking at purchasing one of these this week.
its been hard to decide which car to choose as there are so many but after reading this thread and the car being in my price range its the one im going to go for.
only reason for me not getting one will be if my offer on a schumacher sx3 is accepted on ebay or not. i expect it not to be as it was quite low.

the reason i butted in was to ask you guys a favor, with this being my first car and first build! since being around 14 years old and building a tamiya monster beetle and mardave meteor lol.

could one of you great ppl put up a list for me of everything i will need to purchase along side the kit to have it fully complete and able to pop along to a meeting to join in.

as in, what size brushless motor, esc, lipos, shock oil a complete list so i can purchase these and build the car on my return home from this trip at work. it will all be home waiting for me :)

i have a dx6i transmitter which i plan to use to start off with until i decide if i want to get something else. so just need the receiver for the radio side of things.

thank you.

it really depends on how much you want to spend and what ure local club runs. Off road is generally open class with regards to motors etc

the most commonly run motor for 2wd would be a 7.5t, and i would personally recommend the hpi flux pro. They are around £55 and are superb.

esc wise you have many options and budgets. 2wd is my main class and as such i run the hobbywing v3, but this is around £140.
in my 4wd which is less serious for me i run the hobbywing 60A v2.1. You can get these for about £55 new and are more than adequate. I used to run an 8.5 on mine in 2wd and it was fine.

lipos again, what's ure budget. I run the ace gens 65c stick packs which u can get from giantshark for about £32 each. They are roar approved and seem pretty good. You can spend more on bigger name brands if u like, but i tend to think they are all made in one of 3 factories anyway so isn't much difference.

shock oil, core rc is available from most online shops. Id say you will want a range between 300cst and 700cst

jump onto ralls racing website and give Nathan a call his mobile number is listed on there, and tell him i sent you his way. He will be happy to discuss anything further with you and may do you a good deal on a job lot to get you going. He is a top racer and very helpful

oh, depending on what motor u get u will need a pinion too. One comes in the kit and is a 24 tooth, but if ure running 7.5t then u may want a 21 or 22 as a starter. Ive put 22 on mine but not run it yet so cant say if it needs dropping or raising.

also, not essential but a good idea is spring. The kit ones are far too hard on the rear. I am changing to the losi springs as that's what most people i race with use. Makes things easier. Means i have 2 full Durango spring sets for sale if you wanted to save some money on a full selection. They are a tight fit on the collars on the h2 shocks but fit the rest of it perfectly.

other things to be aware of when building....

- the manual tells you to put a .5 shim on each of the rear inner hinge pins. I found that you don't need them as there is no play without. If you do have play on the arm then with the kit spacers you may need to use a reamer very lightly to open the whole a bit. They are slightly too small to go over the hing pins. Alternatively buy a pack or two of the Schumacher 3x7 spacers. You get 18 per pack in .5, 1 and 2mm sizes. Ive ordered two just because i hate using plastic spacers.

- page 15 of the manual has the anti squat section. It doesn't explain anything and might leave you scratching your head. Basically you get 3 longer inserts and 3 shorter ones.

the longer ones are to go under the rear-front block and this is what sets your anti squat. The thinnest one gives you 1 degree, next is 2 and the thickest gives you 3 degrees.

the shorter inserts are for the rear-rear block. These go on top of the block though, and are used to keep the gearbox level. So basically whatever you used under the front block, you need to put the same height spacer on top of the rear block.

- the only other thing i have found in the length of the rear shocks could be a little longer as there isn't much droop. Not that you need alot. All i have done is unwind the shock end so that the shaft from body bottom to end top is 30mm i think. Ill double check this over the weekend and let u know if any different.

just take your time with the build. In true Taiwanese style the manual is a bit lacking in detail but i managed it all first time after i got my head round the anti squat settings.

Thank you a lot mate, they are a lot more technical now then just bolt together and go like when I was younger.

As I said I have an offer pending on an sx3 at the moment, as soon as I know either way ill be making my purchase of one of these. I saw them last week and never really knew much about them, or if spares were avaliable so put it to one side.

I was toying with the idea of a losi 22 but these h2 are a nicer price as a starter car.

Ok ..... Who grabbed all the shock towers from MB models?

They went quick :)

Not guilty Nick,HONEST:woot:

Guilty
and white wheels

why bother lol... they are beefy as feck and aint gonna break.

i just got a second car for spares. much more cost efficient at the kit price

Loads more spares and kits on there way to us!

jenky, check your pm's.

Pm's checked, yes it is your sx3 andy that I was waiting to hear about.

i have purchased my H2 tonight!

please have a look at the electrics ive chosen and see if they will fit/work ok in the car and tell me what else i should purchase ready.

motor
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
ESC
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
2X LIPOS
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
i have no idea what servo so i put this in the basket?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

ive also bought a couple of different sized pinions, losi 22 springs and the schumacher spacers.

im going turnigy, simply because my dad uses it in his all his rc stuff and loves the gear.

Jase whack a thin roll bar on the back and some really thick diff grease in the ride was fine mate:lol:

Sorry thinking back in the day thick oil :lol: not grease

That battery won't work with that esc

Ull want a 7.4v 2S

Those lipo's ain't gonna fit bud, you need 2s ones (2 cell 7.4v) not the 4s (4 cell 14.8v) ones you've got there plus if you try hooking them up to that ESC you'll blow it apart instantly.

With regards to the ESC personally I'd be looking for a higher rated one maybe 120a instead of 60a your looking at.

The motor looks fine to me but make sure you get a sensored ESC to go with it.

The servo isn't what I'd choose either it's too slow for use in steering a 1/10th scale buggy you're ideally looking for something thats got a speed of about 0.09-0.07 with a max torque of about 10kg's I'd recommend having a look at the Savox 1257 that's what I use and I love it.

The motor should be ok. I'd be looking at this lot though rather than turnigy

Esc http://www.giantshark.co.uk/xerun60a...-p-405855.html

Programming card http://www.giantshark.co.uk/hobbywin...-p-403901.html

Batteries http://www.giantshark.co.uk/gens-530...-p-407507.html

Servo http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...tal-servo.html

A few pics of my mate Adey's brand new built H2.

It was very quick last night at Dudley for its first run!

Will be even better once it's been tuned.

Looking good

With regards to the electrics. If you want to run any brca events you will need a motor and lipo that is on the brca list.
I think (some of the) gens ace, intellect and voltz are on the list but don't think turnigy are.
Same with the motors.

I've heard good things about dualsky Escs but not used them myself. HW is also a good option.


Check here for brca lists. Don't think 2013 updates are out yet.
http://www.brca.org/index.php?q=cont...-updates/14218

This is true. Although just to be clear, while all clubs must be brca registered, you do not need Brca or roar approved kit for club racing.

It is only required for nationals or an event that specifically states it is required.

The gens ace stick packs are approved I believe. Certainly are roar approved.

I bought my gens ace lipos from giantshark at an amazing price. They also do Esc,s but not much in the motor dept for buggies.
Gens ace come highly recommended and brca legal.

Just had an email telling me there out of stock so I've cancelled my order.

Get the stuff linked above mate, then get a 7.5 hoi flux pro from mb models.

Or give Nathan at Ralls racing a ring and see what he can do for you on everything

hobbywing esc is decent but gaintshark also do a saker which is a copy

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/sale-saker-p-407499.html

£30! defo worth the punt

I have noticed the programme cards haven't been available for a good few weeks+ for those Saker esc's, in case you're looking at getting one.

i thought you can just use the hobbywing? you should be able to change the sw with the usb prog box.

So all my Schumacher shims arrived yesterday.
On the rear hubs you can just squeeze in 2mm in front and 2.5mm behind. It's a little tight be loosens up if you lift and drop the arm a few times. Without the .5 there is a bit more play than I would like.

It does however mean that I now have even more adjustability on the rear hubs.

Do need to look into anodising though as I now have grey shims, pink shocks, orange blocks and motor plate and purple wheel nuts lol

LOL Steve,you cant beat a bit of mix and match anodising :lol:

Oh you can. I may turn everything grey to match the shims

Next item to address is shock pistons, what fits and whether need to change shafts in order to use others

here we go, my first of many no doubt

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_P...tE/s539/h2.jpg

Well I had my first run with my H2 last night and I have to say I'm well impressed by it even if I did manage to crack one of the steering knuckles in a massive head on collision with another car. I've ordered replacements and the CNC front hub set purely because I fancy trying them. Next on the list of things to get are some softer springs for the back end I think I'm going to try the Hobao ones to see how they perform and some new lipo stick packs to replace my ageing Trakpower ones.

How can you get 3 deg rear toe? The stock is 4 degrees

first run last night. Got to grips with it in practice and lots of changes. Loads on understeer as this thing has so much rear end grip.

first q was a solid b final run. Next 2 were quicker each time and was on mid high A final pace but kept making silly mistakes.

very impressed with the car. On pace with my highly modified Durango and quicker if i had avoided tangles.

will post a setup tomorrow

managed to get it done this morning lol

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qz...ime_130108.png

I'm building my h2 at the moment. Really pressed but a bit confused. What kind of oil should I put in the diff? I kind of hoped they'd include some to start me off. Sorry guys its been years since I built a car and I don't think I've ever built a geared diff.