the new revised arms have webbing at the rear where that little lump is the hinge pin goes into. Initially I thought the plastic was slightly different. perhaps more carbon (b4 style) ish than the original ones. I'm not 100% on this theory now though.

the 1 and 2 on the arms have been there for as long as I can remember and isn't related to the revision.

B44.2
 

Have you built yours yet gaz just building up to mine

Any build issues or pretty much same as B44.1

Any hotups required

J

yeah I built mine on the 26th of October :blush:

I fitted a spare vented slipper plate to the VTS as I had one in my box. Otherwise it's standard. Probably the usual '44 options we're use to at a guess.

The only option bits I have on the .1 are the vented plates and the alloy front tower support :)

guess the issue is, when you order new arms, be sure to mention that you want the gen2 arms with webbing, as like I found, you will receive the old style. Even shops dont know about it and were not told. It was news to the AE Distributor here he said... quite strange :)

AE mentions the update in the features for the car ;)

The problem you might find is that the front w/bones have kept the same part number as it is a rolling change. This happens quite often with a variety of manufacturers so unfortunately the only way to differentiate is to physically look at them.

Has anyone had issues with the small o-rings under the small screws in the shock cap? These seem far too soft to me and tend to stretch as the screw is rotated and try to squirm their way out from under the screw head. I think the o-rings should be harder or maybe replaced by a fibre gasket type of washer?

Other than that I had a 3/8 CS screw missing, one hinge pin supplied too long (I had to dremmel it down to the right length) and the instructions have a couple of errors (i) the 2mm gap for the slipper nut on page 10 and the lack of explanation on page 17 to show how the battery tray mounts are fixed. Nothing major but it looks like no-one sanity checked the instructions.

it is Weird having Hexes on the rear of an Associated car. Just wish all my wheels has hexes!

I just need a set-up now!

Hi - yeah I had the same issues with the shock cap o rings and the suggested slipper setting- but all my hinge pins etc were fine. If you download the B44.2 instruction manual from the Team Associated site- there are revisions like telling you how to fit the battery straps etc.

The little bleed screw o-rings are... fun :drool:

I've found you only just have to nip the screws up to the point of the o-rings squirting out of the hole, the shocks won't leak and they won't come loose. No need to crank them down as tight as they will go ;)

No need for the o-rings at the bleeding screw. Only use the screw with a bit loctit, and you got no problems with sealing. No problems so far with leaking, or to much air!

I seem to be suffering front spring retainers snapping. Done two in two meetings now. They're snapping at the bottom of the lightened bit. Are there any other spring retainers that will fit the big bores?

Other than that, the car is flying, got 3rd yesterday against a strong field.

Have you raced a B44/B44.1............if so how does they compare to the 44.2 ???

cheers :)

Ditto

Nope, all i can say is none of them have beaten my 44.2 yet :p

Hi all, finally got some time to start my B44.2 build. This is my first ever build and got the diffs built tonight. All pretty straight forward and instructions pretty straight forward so far. When putting the bevel diff gear and drive pinion in the gearbox casing, the manual states to put a drop of diff lube on them. Instead I have put a generous fingernail sized lump of CV Lith-Moly grease as this is what I use in my Ten-SCTE when I maintain it.

Can anyone clarify that this will be ok with the B44.2 as my only concern is that the diff gear and pinion are plastic whereas the gears in my Ten-SCTE are metal.

I am pretty sure that it will be ok but if anyone has any thoughts, then please put me right. Cheers. :)

Yeah, i's think that would be fine. Check for wear on your furst diff rebuild, but i doubt that grease would cause any. Lithium based greases are normally safe to use on plastics.

Cheers for the super fast response. Gonna do a bit more tonight when I get home and 5he kids are asleep.

Molly grease can contaiminat the diff and cause the diff to wear quicker that is why diff lube is recomened

I would suggest you build the car as per kit using the specified lubes in the correct place thread lock where recomened then there will be no tears.

Half the problem you read on these threads is due to people thinking they know best but the reality is the manufactures have designed these parts in this way for a good reason.

And just for the record the gearboxes on the 44.2 are the same as the original tc3 that was releasesd in the late 90 and they are build the same now as they were then.

Stu

100% agree with stu on this one! inside a ball diff gearbox the only lube that can be used has to be identical with that used on the diff its self as contamination can cause diff failure as quick as 1 run!!!! I've seen it happen!

OK I will strip it down and start all over again. Are you sure the manual instructions of one drop of diff lube is enough tho. It doesn't seem enough.

yeah as the manual says i tend to lightly smear the crown wheel (diif gear) and never had a problem diff stay sweet for a while.

stu

Also with the design of the crown gear some of the grease on the balls/plates will get thrown out onto the teeth with use. You'll find after you've run it a bit the grease finds it's way onto the teeth anyway :)

Right. Kids are now in bed. Just got to wrap up some final pressies for the big day then I should have a couple of hours free. Has anyone got some advice for bits I will come across further down the line with the build. Did I make a decent choice with the B44.2 or should I have got something else. I mean, it looks decent enough to me but then again this is a bit new to me 1/10 buggies.

you will not be disapointed in the slightest

the only thing i would take care with is the small rubber o rings for the shock caps i found if i used a driver it would pop out too easily so i use the supplied allen keys i found it a little easier to seat it snug like the manual says.

other than that enjoy.

stu

Also, seems like some of the front hingepin holders werent threaded properly from the factory. The retaining screws wouldnt go fully home on mine, but close enough, with threadlock of course.

What servo's are you guys running in your b44.2, I have a savox 1258tg and I have had to install it without the spacers and yet the ball cup is still rubbing on the top of the servo. People on rctech were having the same problem with the savox servo and most have taken adremel to the top of the servo which I am a bit rreluctant to do. May keep the savox for another car in the future.

Any help would be great.

Associated xp1015

Futaba bls551

Is it the bellcrank that's rubbing? Could you not take something off that instead?

Last time I fitted a Savox in a 44 I needed to take a small amount off the end of the steering bellcrank, only a couple of mm's from the bottom edge and it fitted fine after that.

I currently run an AE XP1015 in mine and it goes in with no fettling.

Thanks for the replies. Dont fancy taking a dremel to a new savox servo so may keep it to one side for another rc. Can anyone recommend the cheapest place to get the ae xp1015. Cheers.

The savox servo rubs yes!
You will need to Dremel down the section where the sticker is
Refit and retry.
Or trim down the bellcrank that mr Lowe has advised you to do or both!
Or buy another servo!
Cml have the associated one I mentioned and it works fine.
Not sure on other servos sorry
Gaz

Just had a quick look and it looks like I could get away with dremelling the smallest amount off the bellcrank arm and run the servo with no spacers, so all is not lost. Should have read up before choosing a servo that is a problem to fit. Oh well. You live and learn. Thanks for all your help guys.

Been reading up on rctech thread for the B44.2 and some of the guys are running a capacitor direct to the rx as they say that the savox servos are a bit power hungry. Does this sound right.

Also gonna get some tyres on order. Been told schumacher mini spikes silver for wet and yellow for dry with answer rc blue medium inserts with low profile cut staggers for front silver and yellow. Does this sound correct. Sticking with schumacher as they are the control tyre for racing.

Motor and esc I can't make my mind up between the orion vortex with rs10 esc or the tekin gen2 motor and r10 pro esc. So any help there would also be appreciated. Sorry for all of the questions. I hate being a noobie at this. Lol.

Yet more questions. Lol. What spares should I carry in my box for car and where do you guys get your screws. Is there somewhere to order them cheaply in bulk or do you all order direct associated replacements. Imperial seems harder to find.

Never ran a power cap for a savox servo.
Staggers are for 2wd front not 4wd
Stick to mini spikes
Green normally in wet depending on surface
Silvers do work though try Both
Yellow for dry yes or greens depending on surface again
Schumacher arnt a controller tyre unless your doing certain meetings!
If your a club or regional driver you should be able to use any!
Speedo and motor wise...Lrp flow and a reedy sonic motor will be good!
Spares wise...how good are you at driving?
If your a beginner a spare car haha
Only joking!
Spares wise you need ideally are below!
Screws wise there are lots if options but I normally order packets of originals!
You will only need the countersunk ones potentially that are mainly used throughout the car!

Spares-
Front arms
Rear arms
Front and rear tower
Steering rack
Diff gears
Ball cups
Shock rod ends
Front shock shafts

Anymore help?
Ordering wise cml distribution have have a very good shop online!
Gaz

Ebay b44 screw and you csn buy a stainless steel set with plenty different ones in for under a tenner.

Get some front A arms, front bulkhead, front castor blocks and front steering knuckles. Pretty much the only things I've ever broken on my 44.1 so I imagine it will be the same. :)

Edit, I did brake a shock shaft other week but first time in 8 months I have.

Only thing i have broken on B44 is front shock shafts....3 of them!

Thanks for all your help guys. One last question (for now anyway, lol). Can anyone recommend a pinion set or what pinions to get in what sizes ie 48dp or 64dp and is it worth buying a set etc. Thanks again.

48dp and I have used a 25 with a 10.5 motor and currently 23 with a 7.5 so that could be a guide for you....but it will really ultimately depend on the track

For me biggest Ive used is a 23t pinion with a 6.5t motor.

Im usually using between 17t and 21t depending on the size/speed of the track.