Most of the rear tower breaks I have seen have been in that same spot. My theory is that it can press on the motor mount in a crash and this causes it to break. I spaced my tower out by 1mm using some washers and this improved matters no end, having had a couple of rolls that I would have expected to break the tower. I eventually decided to run a CF tower and the washers in order to further improve my chances of surviving a crash! There is a small mark on the CF tower where it must flex and touch the motor mount so there must be something in my logic...!

I also have CF steering linkage as I broke one just clipping a corner (HD ball cups stayed fully intact :woot:).

I'm using the 410 wing mounts on my 210 and I have flipped mine a couple times now and it just lands on the wing,not touching the shock tower at all

Seems to take the jumps better too!!

I've done 3 or 4 now in exactly the same place too :thumbdown: including one carbon one :thumbdown: :thumbdown: will check out the spacing to the motor mount sounds very likely that could be the problem.

Yes, i've done a couple as well, time to dig out some 3mm washers.......

if i were you, i'd go with cut staggers in place of normal staggers, and on the rear i would use mini pin in yellow, they work better than the mini spikes, i just started driving an dex210 and those tires work well even when its wet.
i haven't broken anything yet, but thats because our track only has one big jump and two really small ones it was originally an 1/5 scale track but 1/10th buggy's are getting more and more popular

Having been driving the 210 for a while now i can tell you it is very strong considering its mainly plastic.

Only thing i have broken is a front hub, and that was after landing on a wall lining a table top jump.

in all honesty, the car does not NEED any upgrades. Its fantastic out of the box, as is Durangos selection of kit springs.

If you want to upgrade items i would suggest:

• Changing the plastic shims/spacers for the gold ones as the plastic ones seem pretty soft and once you tighten up a ball stud, a 2mm spacer is no longer 2mm but less.
• Shock stand offs - change these for the 410 rear ones. Again i dont think its needed, kit style is fine, but the 410 ones allow for an easier and quicker adjustment should you wish to move them.
• Rear camber plate. This is something i havent done myself, but it allows you to run a much shorter link at the rear which seems to help handling on a high grip track. Personally i find the rear end fine as kit.
• Weight wise i dont personally beleive the car needs any. but then this is going to be a personal thing according to your driving style. I am running about 60g behind the servo purely as i run saddles which are lighter than a stick pack, and also run a low profile servo.

Tyres depends on track surface and weather conditions. staggers are the general front choice, cut stagger will give you a bit more steering, but have a high side wall which can generate some grip role.

I've been using the DE Racing Borrego wheels for a while now. Much stronger than the originals, which bend. My original rear wheels are completely out of round but the DE wheels are still perfect.

Wheels and ballcups = plastic too soft!

Otherwise, still no breakages and running everyting stock except springs and pistons.

I run the shorter ones personally. I wanted to upgrade my v3 and they were out of long ones. I pinched the longer ones off my 210 and fitted the shorter ones no problems.

apologize for bringing this post back up after 4 weeks, but with the 410 wing mounts, is it higher than the standard 210?

when you say it lands better, what do you mean and how? If it is to provide more down force, it should land more nose high, which I have seen a problem with the 210. Little confused, hope you can enlighten me....

If you flip a stock 210, with the stock wing and stock tower, the tips of the tower dig in and snap the tower off.

With the 410 (and other) mounts, you lift the wing sufficiently to make that the highest point of the car, so if you land upside down, you just bend/crack the wing, which takes 30 seconds to replace, or can be left "slightly" broken.

The tower snapping is a race finishing failure.

As long as the orientation of the wing is the same (attack angle and fore/aft position) the aerodynamic performance *should* be pretty similar.

atomic, cream
 

where can i get this cream and atomic stuff you speak of?????:confused:

Atomic Carbon google his web site!A t o m i c - C a r b o n . c o . u k:thumbsup:
Cream is his log on here search the durango posts you will find plenty!:thumbsup:

Helloooooo :D

Link to all my Durango stuff can be found here http://www.oople.com/forums/member.php?u=4055