imagine if the driveshaft was at a 45 degree angle to the outdrive and the the dogbone and outdrive was glued up so it didn't pivot (super-extreme case of binding) when you apply the power if they are sweeping forwards they will 'push' down on the hub end (wheel)
if they are sweeping backwards they will 'push' up on the hub/wheel end.

we dont have 'that' much resistance in the outdrive/bone end but the effect is there. on some cars more than others depending on how efficient their outdrive/bone end materials move on each other

its not the easiest thing to explain, but I hope it makes sense

Think I've got it now. Theoretically it will have no effect, it's as a result of diff outdrive resistance. I wonder if all this is affected by any gyroscopic forces encountered during cornering..:woot:

oposite I think.

forwards they are pushing the wheels 'down' thus raising the ride height

backwards they pull the wheels up, making the rear end drop

Ok i see now chris i was thinking of the car squatting rather than the wheels being forced into the ground.

Cheers;)

thats it, you got it

Ballbearing all this in mind I guess the steel outdrives are better suited than the plastic ones? (less friction & less wear)

I know even from onroad (1:8TR) this is very important, you'd better replace dogbones and outdrives quite often, maybe only the dogbone pins. The effects explained are important, but it's also important not to have to much slop back and forth, as this will make the car not accelerate in a straight line (deviating time of engagement).

I found that for onroad using teflon spray more or less totally eliminated wear! It's unbelievable! Any form of sticky grease just collects dirt and makes things worse! But this thing dries up. Doesen't seem to work for OR though...

Any good tips & tricks here for OR? (I'm sure Olivier would fit some tiny bearings on each pin :lol:)

we tried bearings, can't remember what they were knicknamed, but we used Losi steering bearings on the dogbone pins (losi) and had much bigger slots in the outdrives and a thin saver ring on the outside.

LOL! Someone had to try it! :)

But no noticeable improvement I guess?

Do you guys use MIP lube or anything else? Or run everything dry?

*pop*


I remember the BK2 having near zero dogbone plunge. And the CR and original XXX having ... .. well, not lots, but a fait amount.

I will go on a Google run and try to prove it!

BK Bones?

Hi Elvo :thumbsup:

One of the BK2's most significant new features is its management of "friction dynamics," to use Team Losi's term. The BK2's MIP CVDs are significantly shorter and mate with longer diff outdrives. The new geometry reduces the distance the CVD's dogbones move inside the outdrives during suspension articulation ("dogbone plunge" is the term Losi uses). With reduced dogbone plunge, the BK2's suspension travel is smoother and the drag-braking effect of plunge friction is reduced.


From: http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...04/ai_n9383774


Q.E.D.

sure we've been through this before.......:)

about 4 years ago when we were trying to make the BK2 work?

How about hardcoated alu outdrives and teflon coated dogbones?

Hi Northy!

What about some dry lube?

think this would work better
FISTER

The dogbones (assuming steel) would soon kill the alu outdrives, as there's always going to be a small amount of backlash due to manufacturing tolerances. Hard coated ally is good, but it's still ally underneath and prone to distortion.

Naaa... sceptical... :wtf:

The first one looks like lubrication for chains. I used to do Motocross, and those chain lubes are great - but still kinda sticky, so it will pick up dust. For chains it's more about preventing wear & stretch than being smooth I think.

The second ones look like grease, which I guess wouldn't be good either. I'd love to have some bad-ass hard spray-on dry teflon stuff!

I had a very special car before, the swiss SMP Slide, which came with CNC machined alu parts, incl. transmission parts. And those were hard coated (it's way way thicker than "tinted" coating). That stuff was very slippery and almost unwearable! Even with a lathe it was extremely hard to cut into!

I think I've read about people treating the inside of their engine with some teflon fluid, which made a strong coating. Is this possible to do "at home"?