Originally Posted by Reevsey (Post 608864)

As Flode has mentioned remove 3mm, you will then need to redrill the hole to open it up to 3mm in size, this alows the long ball stud to go through and only grip on the caster block and not the spindle, this allows your steering to still be free moving and smooth. You will need longer turnbuckes, losi do a 55mm length pair TLR6071, i would build up a seperate set so you can do as Darren has done and quickly change from the standard link positions to these modified ones if necessary.

On track - You will notice the car will feel very similar going in to the turn but it will let go of the turn quicker, the biggest difference i found was getting out of a corner on power as the rear end would stay in line much more and calm the car down as the front would let go of the turn, most peoples inboard cars that i have done this mod to prefer it, but on the outboard car it is not good and not a mod i would recommend.
If you ever need more steering as Darren did at the Area 51gp you just go back to the standard link.

Remember to space up the ball studd on the bulkhead to 3mm when you run the modified link and lower the ball stud when you run the standard link position

Si

Originally Posted by uijui (Post 608954)

Could you please explain to dummy, me once again. Longer link with mod, does it suit for driver who likes car to be aggressive (much steering), or more passive (less steering)? Tight or open carpet track for mod?

Originally Posted by scoyle (Post 609766)

Can I just confirm the parts that would be required to do this mod;

TLR6071 55mm turnbuckle
TLR6018 Ball ends
EFLH1465 Brass Bushing
TLR1061 Trailing steering arm set
?????? Longer Ball stud

I hope I have listed everything and from reading here I realise that I do not, in theory, need to replace the steering arm spindle set but will probably get a set just in case LOL.

Can someone confirm the longer ball stud part and where can I get the brass bushing part (is this a helicoptor part)?

Thanks
Stephen

Originally Posted by Delves (Post 609789)

TLR6023 - 10mm ball stud

Yup, the brass part come with a Blade 400 Tail Rotor Shaft and Drive Pull set (so effectively you would throw away the majority of bits that come with it just for the brass inserts). I would say this is a nice way of doing it but not 100% vital. You can get away with drilling out the steering knuckle so that the ball stud rotates freely (only downside will be that over time it will open up).

Originally Posted by Reevsey (Post 608864)

On track - You will notice the car will feel very similar going in to the turn but it will let go of the turn quicker, the biggest difference i found was getting out of a corner on power as the rear end would stay in line much more and calm the car down as the front would let go of the turn, most peoples inboard cars that i have done this mod to prefer it, but on the outboard car it is not good and not a mod i would recommend.

Si

Originally Posted by MILKY (Post 612757)

I think the issue with the 22 is not a new one but due to the nature of the car ie,being a different route(allowing rear and mid) has made the car popular plus the very attractive price;ensures the car is bought by huge swathes of people myself included.

What comes of this though is the more that are sold the more customers there are with theoretical issues,mass produced full size cars invariably have more bad press from more people because there are more cars being sold and therefore more customers to complain compared to a lower production marque.

Its also a bandwagon issue,the 22 comes out...best and of course to some the worst thing on earth.Dex210 comes out wow this is the best thing on earth and then the ball starts to roll with diff issues,parts missing,cant get wheels and then rear shock towers breaking....it all starts again.

Simple premise....if you like it...race it, ignore the doomsayers and just drive what you love.:thumbsup:

Originally Posted by migsy (Post 611778)

when i bought my 22, i ran it in rear but found it felt like it had to much turn at the rear. i now run the mid setup and it feels much more planted compared to rear.

the mod i have done is move the saddles round like my cr2, i also have 50grams under my lipo.

if theres anymore changes i should consider, please let me know.

cheers..Alan:thumbsup:

Originally Posted by Fred79 (Post 612998)

You need the FTW or the J-Concept body to make it fit.
By the way alså the bugleboy or the fatbody will fit with the side by side lipo mod :)