Correct i did get a answer to my original email about the shock shafts, steering link & the c clip, didn't get a reply to the next suggestion about making the manual more understandable to newbies & my question about slim front wheels

Would like to add Team Durango are very helpful when you follow the correct communication path.

For me if I have a problem with xyz product I'll ALWAYS discuss with the manufacturer before even thinking of posting on a forum.

I've seen people really slate a product in public before asking the manufactuer and then they wonder why the manufacturer doesn't appear "friendly".

I had issues with my first batch SV which I discussed with Schumacher, they went above and beyond in my view for Customer Service. I was very happy and it was all because I addressed it with them direct in a polite manner rather than bashing on a forum or facebook etc etc.

I have done the bashing on forums in the past, but only when it's due... A main Volvo dealer wouldn't resolve some outstanding issues with a car that I paid £13k for. They ignored emails, telephone calls and so forth. After a very public bashing with clear and accurate facts Volvo UK stepped in and resolved it.

We are doing a hints and tips section for the website which like we did with the DEX410 will cover the common maintenance and set-up areas of the car.

Slim front wheels - I assume you are talking about the 'Old' Stagger rib.
The simplest method is to cut the wheel down as shown below.

Ok thanks for that Adam
Will the wheels be available soon? or are there any other makes that will fit for the time being till the durango ones are available? i will give the wheel cutting a go when they come out

Wheels are due in next week.
You can 'Drill / Ream' a B4 wheel out to 10mm and then press in the Durango bearings. It will help get you away until you get the proper ones :)

Cougar SV front wheels are the same size as B4 wheels I think (correct me if I am wrong).

Thank you :thumbsup:

+1: Last year I built a DEX410 of the very first batch, and I found there were 2 screws not in the kit, and I broke the battery snap pin during the build (It just snapped when I tried to get in on there :eh?:). They pretty much just asked the kit number, my adress and easily within 14 days of contacting them I had my parts :thumbsup:

A whole lot different than some manufacturers I contacted, from which I never even got a reply.

Anyhow, though I've had a blast building my DEX210, I did come across one or two small issues. The biggest one being that one of the rear wheels is out of balance: The inside side of the wheel probably got a nudge when it was still cooling, or it has shrunk unevenly. The other issues were with screws: I had one screw without a thread :lol: But I had the right length in the leftover screws from the build, so no problems there. And lastly I had to use M3x10 screws in two places where M3x8 was adviced - since the 10mm screws fitted I see nothing to complain about there :)

PS: I shall now stop going off-topic.

email sent re.diff. Trying to get some circlip pliers online and schumacher circlips

email sent re.diff. Trying to get some circlip pliers online and schumacher circlips

Her is some links for the Circlip Pliers and the Schumacher Circlips

http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/Old_Ca...voc/HW010.html

http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/Old_Ca...-3E/U2631.html

These are what I used with no issues as I had them for my SV

http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/Manufa...her/HW010.html

How come your not using the black molybdenum grease on the thrust bearing ? :confused: Every diff i have ever built uses the black grease.

I have :) Believe it or not, that is the molybdenum grease from the kit that you can see on the thrust washers. It came out a little light in colour due to the flash of the camera (without the flash the picture would've been all black). I added some more grease inside the cage of the bearing after the picture, so plenty of moly grease there! :thumbsup:

My circlip is in my diff and working well. The Durango 210 diff, for me, is perfect. I built it as the manuel, and no probs at all. I found it super smooth and no problems with getting to the right tension first time.

Having just come from an SV and messing with cone washers that 'ARE' shit, I would say the 210 dif is spot on, even the circlip.

Unfortunatly, as I said, my diff is finished and working, but the circlip in the 210 seemed to me to be thicker than the SV circlip ( I rebuilt my SV diff 4 days ago for the 3rd time in 2 months)

Basically, get the 210 circlip, pre strech it a little, rounded side goes towards the SMALL trust race and use PROPER pliers (or Dremeled ones) Compress it as LITTLE as you can. I put it in at an angle, then removed the pliers and pushed it the rest of the way with a flat screw driver. This way the circlip never gets compressed more than it has to. By pre streching it and not squashing it when fitting, you get a super tight fit when it's fully home.

Mine has been test run, painted and ready for the track tomorrow, so I HAVE built this car to know!

how about trying to fit a tamiya 201 diff in the car

That might work yeah, though if it fits you'll at least need to cut down the outdrives, they are quite a lot longer than the Durango outdrives :lol:

Il give you £90 including postage for it, pay pal waiting but you pay the fees:thumbsup:

mine gave up at 10 laps so I stripped it down. once out of the car I pulled the 2 outdrives and they just came apart in my hands lol. The thrust bearings and screw were all still attached to the other half of the diff haha

my cir clip was in backwards which was visible on very close inspection. Re-fitted it all back and I can't get it to slip in my hands.

Will give it a blast around Cov track on Sunday to test :)

Many thanks.

I will re check mine tomorrow. Any damage etc