Hi

Thanks. First outing likely to be open, flowing torch and then MK gp.

Mike

Is there anywhere saying what inserts in the hubs gives which value? I'm confused as to which one I should be using to get what level of toe or caster.

Same here :-/ also the fronts :blush:
feel a right newb but have not use inserts before!

I think I've figured the rears out.

Standard toe in is 3 degrees. The inserts have the values printed on them so if you view them from above the value they say is the value they will add or remove.

But the front caster block ones I'm still confused.

Its printed on the inserts or is that not what you mean ?

The caster inserts have +10-10 or +5-5 so I guess there are 4 options for caster angles.

For example if I wanted 30 degrees caster which of them do I need?

Its all new to me this, none of this nonsense with 4wd :D

The car has 25 degrees kick up.
So with the +5 arrow pointing forward you add another 5 degrees of castor.
+10 = 35 degrees which we have found very useful on high bite Astro.

The converse for if you put the -5 arrow pointing forward.

We'll be doing a tech tip section on the website soon.

Nice one cheers Adam.

any tips on building and filling the shocks. im am new to durango shocks

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...k-build-guide/ :)

Brilliant Thanks :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Excellent :thumbsup: look forward to the tech tip section :D

Steve...... There are no shock bladders in my kit so do you fill the cap too??

Building with bleeder caps instead of bladders....

Fill oil and work air out,
Leave shaft extended and install and tighten cap with bleed screw out.
Slowly push shock shaft in until there is about 2mm shaft left before threads start.
Install bleeder screw.
Work the shaft a couple times.
Remove bleeder screw and slowly push shock shaft back in.
Re install bleeder screw.

Adam, should there be some 0deg front caster inserts then to run 25deg ?

Thanks for the reply :thumbsup: but do you fill the caps too or just the shock body?

Here's the Shock Build guide we posted for the 'Slim' Bore shocks.
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...k-build-guide/

The principle is exactly the same....

As your shocks will be new. Run the car a few times and then unscrew the bleed screw and perform the bleed processs again... This can help in stopping your car feeling really hard at the extent of up travel.

If your car feels wierd during a meeting when it seemed fine before, this can sometimes be the problem.. A slight build up of air occurs over time and it's a good idea to do the bleed process at the start of a meeting if you know the set-up is good, then it will stay consistent through the meeting.

on the long travel rear shocks its not needed.

but on the front shocks, its worth just adding a couple of drops of oil into the cap.

when bleeding the shocks, if you don't get oil coming out of the bleed hole, there isn't enough oil in the shocks, open the shock again and add more oil

Cheers Adam & Chris...... That's helped loads :thumbsup:

I found that with my fronts even though I poured in enough oil to make the dome on the top before screwing the cap on.