Ok , i made it again as i did at the Beginning, but the angel of the front camber links is really heavy......

I drive the same carbon front tower and my dampers are in the back. My problem is just the angle of the camber turnbuckles. I am not sure if it works right because I have make them longer and I will get more camber after jump for example. I will check it the next time on the track.

André

Are those Akula Racing shock towers? Did you getany problem with them? Because mines, doesn´t fit the shock holes, towers holes are smaller than shocks screws :confused:

On the Akula racing towers you will have to use regular screws without the "larger untreaded part" of the TD screw. Alternatively open the holes to use the TD screw (with the danger of breaking int tie adjacent hole).

Pic from the current situation:
http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/7623/53854517.jpg

Been running mine on my Akula tower for a few meets now and not had any issues with it. I was worried at the start, but so far no issues not a fan of the steering rack arm though as its a good 2-3mm shorter than the stock one..

Next step
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/2672/76109705.jpg

http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/4733/56277637.jpg

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/4455/71532406.jpg

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/7118/64816340.jpg

Damn that's some funky angles there, can't say Im a real fan of that .... but I have just ordered towers.

Anyone do anything different to minimise that angle?

You can add spacers on the ball studs on the C hub to space it out further or dremel down some of the CF tower so there is clearance. This is a problem with the CF towers as the plastic one holds the ball stud vertically instead of horizontal. I only run a rear CF tower from Nick here on oOple.

Going to need a few spacers to get it looking right.

Checking my car yesterday found that I have busted the front tower in the middle at the top, I gave it a twist/pull/tug and its still sitting well not flexing at all, so I may not swap it out just yet.

Wish those RPM angled cups angled the other way as well

Changed the front construction back to Original with Lunsford/Tresrey:
OLD
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/5871/45006123.jpg

Old and new
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/951/12961509.jpg

NEW (i like it much more)
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/9822/41038142.jpg

The Tekin RsPro, Spektrum and savox is a bad combination, the bec in the Tekin is so bad. The Spektrumreceiver need more power than other brands.

I had big problems with this system for a long time and I tryed everything to fix it-no help.
The only thing that helped me was to change the radio, no I use the KoPropo and it works well.

Recomend other servos on buggycars (been mailing with Savox usa).

I have broken 6 (!!) savox 1251-servos, all of them it has been the same wheel inside...

I didn't know but the 1251 is for touring (says savox usa).

Love the DEX210, great right out of the box :-)

Nice pics :-)

Correct, But just add a £3.99 Power cap for the receiver and all is well!

My 210
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/IMG_8794.jpg

of course Creamed to death. :thumbsup:

I agree that Savöx was a bad decision, i will change during the year and started to look for HV Servos (so that i don't need the BEC any longer) - some tips?
With the Savöx, i have "strange behavior" (tremble), and the servo sometimes overwind....:thumbdown:

New Shock Tower by 8-Racig (Martin Achter)
SHOCK TOWER (LINK)
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/486...4f872b5eb1.png

Ordered yesterday......:D

Complete copy of MY product. I guess some people just can't think of there own products.

Maybe, but cheaper and much more nice color.....:)

Bad case of design rip off!

But cream... I must agree with the colour!