Yes, rich is running in the middle hole on the rear hubs though with 4 washers under the inner stud ( long stud needed);). I ran 3mm spacer on the std stud though which isn`t far off.

As promised, here's my Bury dry starting setup...

Link :)

what is the difference on moving the steering rack position have? mine is currently on the front location.

Back = more low speed steering + less high speed, front is the opposite. Moving it back does make it a bit more sensitive around neutral too.

link was working a day or 2 back but now fails :(

is it me or the link?

get the following in IE,

:eh?:

not properly linked up yet but since you need it:

http://www.oople.com/rc/setup/jconcepts/SetupSheetsJConceptsBJ4.htm

Cheers Jimmy :)

Grip / Traction Roll
 

I'm currently running my BJ4 as below (other than 3 washers under the rear camber link which is now to 'B' on rear hub):

http://gallery.myff.org/gallery/80393/BJ4_May07.JPG

I am suffering from severe grip roll. It means I have to drive over cautiously as I'm always worried it's going to flip. Has anyone got any ideas?

I would say move the shock positions to the middle on the towers and the outside on the front wishbones.

2 deg anti squat also.

And drive it smooth!!!

The track I run on is very very bumpy, and found the reduced anti-squat did help so don't really want to go back to 2deg.

Maybe it is just my driving and I'm just not smooth enough!

Rich has done a lot of work and did a lot of testing before the bury national, he found that he could stand up the shocks at the rear to the middle hole and run the middle hole on the rear hub with 2 deg anti squat, this gave him plenty of side bite but masses of drive too, and bury is usually as bumpy as they get. It looks like your generating too much side bite with the shocks laid down all round.

Have you tried the outside row off the rears also?

Thanks Lee, going to try both sets of shocks in the middle holes but keep the 0deg ant-squat to see what difference it makes this week.

Not tried cutting spikes off rear tyres before.

You can also try dropping the oil in the rear to 30w, it lets the rear of the car sit down into the suspention lowering the CG. The Bury setup is what I run pretty much everywhere now except with the shocks on the outside of the front wishbone, I only normally move them in when I'm desperate to generate steering as the front end isn't as consistent on the inner hole.

Thanks for this. I rebuilt the shocks at lunch today, going down to 30wt so will see how I get on. What height would you run on a bumpy rutty track? I currently run wishbones level all round.

Normally CVD's level on the front, and wishbones level on the rear. Overall the front should run slightly lower than the rear.

I amended my set-up to match Rich Lowes Bury set-up with the exceptions of 0 deg anti squat and blue front springs.... what a difference! I could finally push the car without it constantly rolling. For the final, I switched to silver front springs and it was even better! Many thanks for the advice! :)

Sounds good :cool:

Ride Height
 

I run on a very bumpy grass track and am running Richard Lowe's bury set-up. One thing I have noticed that if I try to run at speed on a bumpy section, the back end tends to bottom out and then throws it self up so the rear wheels come high off the ground. This then causes the car to go into a roll or flip.

I'm thinking a solution maybe to run the car higher? I currently run the CVD's level on the front and the wishbones level on the rear. I understand that if I raise the car, I will lose ability to corner faster as it may tend to roll more.

Is there another or better option? Should I try limiting the shocks, different weight oil, different shock pistons?

:confused:

Hi Zipper,

Are you still running 0 degree antisquat? If so try the 2 degree blocks which will stop the back end squatting under power and reducing ride height.
Ho much rear wing are you running? I have always run a full uncut 7" V wing on my car, which helps keep the back end down and stable over bumps quite a bit ;)

Thanks Richard,

With regards to wing, I am using a 7" uncut. I'll give the 2 degree blocks ago and will let you know how I get on.

Cheers!